Build Rebuild of Trusty

[POPO AGIE]

So far I have struck out looking for a tune file but Spelab did respond to my last email with some encouragement.

"Hi,



Thank you for your inquiry, and we sincerely apologize for the inconvenience. At this moment, we do not have this option available currently.



However, we have shared this request with our R&D team, and we hope to offer more products for various vehicle models in the future.



We appreciate your understanding and are always here to assist with any further questions or needs."

Anyone that is interested please reach out to Spelab to show there is a market for tuning files.

https://www.spelabautoparts.com/pages/autoparts-sales-deals

 

[POPO AGIE]

I got a response for a tune today but it is over $3K from Tmagtuning.com.

 

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I found these 3 tools for syncing the timing of the cam, crank and for doing the valve adjustments. The barring tool was included.

The timing pin PN: 4919663
Crank PN: 3854591

 

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Today I gathered up my documents from 1978 when I bought my 40 and went to the Court House to start the process of getting a title and the County is sending a Deputy out to do a VIN inspection.
Fremont County for some reason cant talk to Sweetwater County to find any record of the last time it was registered in 1991 so now the State of Wyoming has to do a search of the VIN number.

 

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I looked at the VIN inspection form and the Sargent put an I instead of J in the VIN so I took the form to the SO and they corrected it.

The flanges are welded on the flex joint.

I fitted it on the adapter to see how much I would have to cut on the 90 but with the adapter and the flex joint the stack up is too long and will clash with the front drive shaft. Looks like I will have to move the flex joint down stream and then 90 forward with the exhaust then cross under the oil pan farther forward behind the axle to clear the drive shaft before running back to the rear. Going outside the frame won't work either because of the tires and FJ60 axle width.

 

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I dug out the front drive shaft and removed the for bolts and put the splined ends together so I could check the length and have it up in place so I could see how much room I had to work with.

Got two bolts into each of the flanges but not tight but not sure if it is the right length for articulation but not to back, I plan to have new drive shafts made anyway.

Took two 90s and clamped together to see if I had enough length and have more then I need.

I used my 2' level and pressed one end against the 3" flange on the turbo down pipe and took a vertical measurement and then calculated how much to cut on the first 90 to run forward toward the front axle. Cut the drop length so I would have clearance above the pinion bearing and bottom of the oil pan ahead of the sump. The V-clamp flange was snug enough to be able to clamp to the turbo down pipe to get horizontal measurements.

I had ~8" of horizontal run so measured the flex joint and then cut the 90 that will cross under the oil pan 3" from the center of the elbow.

Took all the flanges and the pipe to the shop to have them TIG welded and will install when they are done and measure for the center line of the oil pan for the clamp and cut the second 90 for the run to the rear.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Great White North can provide tuning for the R2.8. They also have experience with tuning the R2.8.

Cummins HD Delete Tuning - Great White North Diesel

Cummins HD Delete Tuning. Allows for the removal of the DPF, EGR, and DEF from Cummins HD engines. Option to add horsepower.

gwndiesel.com

 

[POPO AGIE]

Great White North Diesel is great about answering questions and I have several emails back a forth.

They need a tuner like this one. to connect to the ECM to pull the which you can buy direct from EFILive or from GWND. They will send a PDF with instructions on how to get the stock CM file that you can send to them. I have to finish my exhaust and then switch to getting electrical power set up so I can do a key on and have the Cummins wiring harness connected and connect the tuner.

 

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The shop welded the V-clamp flanges and brought home to fit up. Will tape the drop 90 to the flex and then attach to the turbo flange. Mark up the long 90 to cut at the center line of the oil pan and tape that 90. The rest of the pipe is connected with 3" butt clamps and then it will be just cutting and fitting to run out the back, may turn to the side back there. Field fit situation to be determined. Will not dump straight down don't want the sound to bounce back inside.

 

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Worked on the 3" exhaust today and wrapped everything around the oil pan and also wrapped the clutch hose because it is close to the turbo outlet.

Clutch hose wrapped

Wrapped the first 90, this wrap need a clamp to keep it place and no adhesive to hold

Got the 90 installed with the flex link

Wrapped the cross under 90

First cross under 90 and wrapped the clamp with self adhesive insulation

Cut and wrapped the next 90

 

[POPO AGIE]

Wrapped the clamp

Connected the second cross under 90 and the straight run to the rear. Loosened the first 3" V-clamp and rotated the first 90 to get better alignment
and about the same clearance on each side of the oil pan and went back and covered the bare section on the first 90 next to the clamp.

Cut 2 short 45s to get the muffler closer to the frame and clear the DS shock

Exited between the shackle and the receiver.

Just need to secure now with hangers and maintain clearance above the crossmember. The torque tube will not work with this 3" exhaust so may have to improvise again if the frame needs more stiffing.

 

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Yesterday I missed the photo showing I adding tape on the bare spot next to the clamp

 

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Today I went out and looked for uninsulated areas around the oil pan and covered them and also added 2 more clamps to keep the first wrap in place. I included the flex section that seemed like a lot of surface area to radiate to the pan.

I wrapped the adapter to protect the hydraulic lines for the clutch and brake lines. The insulation is not touching the pan there is clearance.

I ordered new flanges for the diffs and removed the old ones and ordered a set of bolts and nuts for both drive shafts and new pinion nuts.

Rear flange, chewed up the nut trying to use a 12 pt socket then switched to a 6 pt. New one are coming if SOR changes my state to WY instead of NV even with the right zip code.

When I removed the front flange the pinion slipped in and could not get the splines to engage. I had to get a hold of it with vise grips and pull it back out with the hubs locked.

Got enough engagement to get the nut on the threads.

This is the amount of splines it has on the front drive shaft with the flanges hot bolted and 4" lift.

 

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When I sent the paperwork to WYDOT for a title search I did not read the fine print on the back of the page and did not sign, provide ID or pay the fee. They sent it right back to me from Cheyenne.

Then My Wife got involved and down loaded the PDF documents needed for me to sign, then I made copies of my government IDs, included docs that show I bought it in 1978, and she used a USPS mailer that I dropped at the PO for $30 twice the search fee. It basically got lost because this evolution of delivery has taken longer then when I put in an envelope. My Wife called WYDOT and the USPS in Cheyenne and today or Monday they get the mailer and start the process again of getting a replacement title.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I worked on securing the exhaust today.

I got a 6" band clamp from Four States in Joplin, MO for HD trucks to secure the Aero 3030XL muffler and found a 3" clamp and hanger on Amazon and test fitting hanger. I will trim the end and remove the lower nut of the 2" clamp and put the strap under it.

I found some flat bar I had and cut and drilled two holes and got all thread to clamp to the frame in about the same location as the stock muffler.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I got back the title search from Cheyenne on my 40 that I am the only owner. We found out that since the VIN predates the 17 digit code the records for Wyoming and Washington no longer exist. My Wife did an internet search and it also came back with no results but they will send a build sheet for the factor price.

The state sent me a form for instructions to take to the County but the two scenarios do not apply to my situation since I am the only owner in spite of my paper work from when I bought it in 1978. The dead ex started this problem when she let my registration expire when I was working in the Portland, OR area for work and since I was living with friends north of Vancouver I had to go to the Clark County to get it inspected and retitled in Washington, then when I went home to Green River, Wyoming and registered it again in Wyoming they did not retitle it in Wyoming and with the moves I have lost the Washington tite.

Has anyone else re-titled and car or truck that is no longer on the books?

 

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I got back under and adjusted the two clamps and attached the hanger to the clamp on the shock bar. Then went over the band clamps to make sure they were all tights, especially the ones for the 45s that I cut them as short as possible. Now everything is solid.

We were looking on line last night and I need a ownership affidavit for the county to get a new title and hope they don't require an absurdity bond to protect the State. I have documents that show I bought it in 8/78 and the last plate it had from 1991. I may also declare a value don't know if it will need to be appraised.

 

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We got documents and photos today and went to the Fremont County Courthouse and did not have much trouble getting a title for my RJ40 and only cost $25.

They were impressed with the documents I had from 1978.

 

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I just ordered my hood from Topnaught and it was on sale and shipping was free. I had it sent to the shop I used and it says 3-4 days shipping.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Even though I am going to new hydraulic supports on the hood I went a head and ordered and new support rod from SOR.