In the process of installing MT upper & lower links. Checked drive line angles and my pinion is 4 degrees too high & needs to be adjusted downward. I shortened the Upper link to its limit (only about 5mm.) With 2 ratchet straps I still not able to get the rear upper link hole to line up. After reading here, going to try jacking it up tomorrow. Is there any pinion adjustment to be had from the lower link?
rear upper and lower control arms
- Thread starter Mxndrnks
- Start date
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Yes, just make to lowers longer and uppers shorter. I just did this on mine about an hour ago.
Does anyone have the part numbers for bolts, washers, nuts for rear lower/upper CA's and panhard?
Can I (should I) use copper antiseize on the bolts?
Okay, I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I just can't get the right side (passenger) upper rear arm to fit... It has been 3 hours of trying. It's a new Toyota arm.
I've tried jacking the axle, the frame, both PS and DS, but the arm is about 1/4" forward of what it should be and I can't get the front bolt in.
WTF is going on?!
The old one came off so easily.
I've tried jacking the axle, the frame, both PS and DS, but the arm is about 1/4" forward of what it should be and I can't get the front bolt in.
WTF is going on?!
The old one came off so easily.
Got it.. Had to jack up under the axle a bit more..
I don't understand this
should it be like this?Nut )) || --- || Bolt-head
or
Nut (( || --- || Bolt-head
Last edited:
It was the second one.
Anyway, after doing a couple 100 miles on the rig with the new arms, this is what I've discovered today on one of the four bolts of the newly replaced upper control arms (tightened all to specs by the nuts and not spinning the bolts during):
It's not a very good mark from me, and can't remember how it was right after assembly, but to me it looks like the bolt have turned a bit and also moved a bit backwards?
On the nut side I've only marked the nut to the washer and the washer to the chassis - those marks are in place:
I don't know, but is there any chance for the bolt to turn (tightening itself into the nut) without the nut & washer turning - unfortunatelly I didn't had the bolt marked to the nut at that time?
It's a brand new bolt (as well as the washer and the nut), with the "claws" on it that's supposed to clamp into the chassis, so I don't understand what's going on.. I can't be that bad at painting, or is it just me who thinks that the bolt has turned clockwise?
Anyway, after doing a couple 100 miles on the rig with the new arms, this is what I've discovered today on one of the four bolts of the newly replaced upper control arms (tightened all to specs by the nuts and not spinning the bolts during):
It's not a very good mark from me, and can't remember how it was right after assembly, but to me it looks like the bolt have turned a bit and also moved a bit backwards?
On the nut side I've only marked the nut to the washer and the washer to the chassis - those marks are in place:
I don't know, but is there any chance for the bolt to turn (tightening itself into the nut) without the nut & washer turning - unfortunatelly I didn't had the bolt marked to the nut at that time?
It's a brand new bolt (as well as the washer and the nut), with the "claws" on it that's supposed to clamp into the chassis, so I don't understand what's going on.. I can't be that bad at painting, or is it just me who thinks that the bolt has turned clockwise?
Yes, it was on the ground, AHC in normal position when torquing. There were no grooves in the chassis I could remember, it was flat (so was under the other 3 bolts). The strange part IMO is, that the washer to chassis and nut to washer position is intact. It's hard for me to imagine that only the bolt have turned - if it did.
On my 98LX, which I did recently, there were grooves on the chassis that seemed to help the teeth on the bolt engage and keep it in place. Maybe they just formed from the original bolt position rather than stamped in at the metal at the factory like I thought.
I see what you're saying about the bolt appearing to turn clockwise with the washer and nut remaining in place. It's odd. My thought was whether the bolt would have shifted had weight been applied after torquing and lowering the axle. I thought the shift of the bolt through the frame holes could have looked more like it turned.
Maybe you just marked it a bit off. I'd mark it again and keep an eye on it.
I see what you're saying about the bolt appearing to turn clockwise with the washer and nut remaining in place. It's odd. My thought was whether the bolt would have shifted had weight been applied after torquing and lowering the axle. I thought the shift of the bolt through the frame holes could have looked more like it turned.
Maybe you just marked it a bit off. I'd mark it again and keep an eye on it.
Thanks for your input! Yeah, I think I'll mark it better & monitor it for a while!
I think (well hope
) I just did a lame marking in the first round..
Can anyone comment if it was worth it to replace the factory bushings back there with poly, in the upper and lower control arms?
Part of me just wants to order new OEM and be done with it, but the younger boy in me says (you can do the poly yourself) knowing it’ll be an all day workout without a press but a vice and push/press kit.
Also it seems the good aftermarket arms all have some type of adjustment.
Are you who have 1.5” of lift really needing the adjustment? I’m asking for myself as eventually I’ll be at 1.5” lift and if need to get the adjustable arms I guess I could.
If needed do you always get both, or just the uppers if your 1.5” or lower?
Part of me just wants to order new OEM and be done with it, but the younger boy in me says (you can do the poly yourself) knowing it’ll be an all day workout without a press but a vice and push/press kit.
Also it seems the good aftermarket arms all have some type of adjustment.
Are you who have 1.5” of lift really needing the adjustment? I’m asking for myself as eventually I’ll be at 1.5” lift and if need to get the adjustable arms I guess I could.
If needed do you always get both, or just the uppers if your 1.5” or lower?
My take:
Poly: No. Poly is for race cars. OEMs use rubber for a good reason.
Getting those bushings out with a proper press is no guaranteed job. Many have had to cut theirs out. You're going to struggle with a vice.
That little of a lift shouldn't need any adjustable arms. My 99 aligned just fine with the 1.5" heavy OME springs and SPC lower arms.
As far as which to get, see if you can check the bushing health in situ. Mine had obviously more worn lower bushings, particularly one side - I think it was passenger.
Most of our 100's probably have worn out bushings if they haven't already been replaced.
Ever broken upper control arm I have seen used poly bushing.
Friends don't let friends run poly
Good one! Lol...
Today is a day to get under the rear with a pry bar and see how bad these really are.
I don't understand this
Nut )) || --- || Bolt-head
or
Nut (( || --- || Bolt-head
High school physics teacher taught us to think of conCAVE as when walking into a cave, ((
Hells me a little bit as I’m the worst at paying attention when removing extra hardware and getting orientation details mixed up apron reassembly.
What catastrophic action has to take place to break a rear upper control arm??
None really our local mud captain Woody broke a poly equipped upper link. Im thinking it was on Hells Gate IIRC.
I broke one in North Africa on the Sahara desert but it was not poly equipped. In my case I broke the frame mount not the link.
Agreed,
I put poly on the race car, OEM for everything else. I did use the cruiser outfitters "aftermarket" rubber bushing in the rear upper control arms and panhard rod, went with SPC rear lower control arms bc they were cheaper than doing bushings with paying myself labor. This made a HUGE difference in ride quality.