Rear tray for my rusty '86 pickup

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The tails are on. Small bits still need sorting.
Runs great! Will get a video made soon.

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Nothing I like better on a flatbed than OEM lights (hate the round Jeep or trailer lights).

Fantastic work!
 
I went to graet lengths to save what was left of the bed to make the housings. They are welded allover, lol. But great looking rear end.
 
Guys, need some help. Chime in please. Can't burp this thing properly. The video below is a 17min hyper lapse showing what happens. When I close the heater valve the needle climbs a little higher. Truck has the LCE desmog but retained heat. Does anyone have a coolant flow diagram? Perhaps I messed something up.
Won't overheat when driving, needle is not dancing as much, but definitely not liking what I'm seeing
See here:
 
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And of course, something is wrong with Mud. Everytime I post, the page keeps skipping lines on its own. WTH. Tried editing and it keeps adding blank lines. Must contact @woody
 
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h
And of course, something is wrong with Mud. Everyt8me I post, the page keeps skipping lines on its own. WTH. Tried editing and it keeps adding blank lines. Must contact @woody
please post your issues in the HELP forum...so anyone else experiencing the same issue can help corroborate any solution.

Plus that won't clutter up your thread...more than it already is....

Of course, as I type, I experience ZERO of the issues you are having, so at this point, not much I can do...

I'll await your post there for any further replies.
 
h

please post your issues in the HELP forum...so anyone else experiencing the same issue can help corroborate any solution.

Plus that won't clutter up your thread...more than it already is....

Of course, as I type, I experience ZERO of the issues you are having, so at this point, not much I can do...

I'll await your post there for any further

Thanks for this! I am going to try rerouting some of the lines.
Cheers.
 
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Looks like I may have to do some hose rerrouting in order to get this resolved. Thanks to the diagram provided above. In the discussion on that particular forum thread, the manifold develops an air bubble, so need to revisit this. Will report with solution.
 
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Yep, needed them to seal up the door nicely. I only have two or three things to sort out and she's good to go to inspection.
 
And fenders and spare are on
Had to weld a couple brackets to the bed.
Looks as such.
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So the no heat issue continues, to an extent. I introduced a "t" in the return hose that goes from heater valve to bottom of intake manifold. The T goes to the back of the timing cover on the pass side. I reinstalled that pipe in an effort to get this coolant to circulate properly. Truck has heat only on recirculate. Runs a bit on the hot side but will burp accordingly tomorrow. Will report back.
 
Oem replacement. This has to do with the desmog. Truck was perfect before the desmog. I've eliminated a bunch of coolant passages.
 
Been a few days since I have chimed in on here. I have eliminated the "t" junction as the motor ran a little hotter than I like. I have been running it per LCE's direction with the heater core return running into the bottom of the intake manifold. It's working fine now. There was a stubborn air bubble in the manifold. I removed the T stat and got it burped, then reinstalled the T stat. I also got heat, yeeeiii.
Now onto something else. The stock rebuilt Aisin that I had installed on the truck prior to my little teardown would push the truck to over 90 mph if I tried. This little Webber 32/36 only gets me 85 if I try hard. I am just a smidge disappointed to say the least. Let's not forget that drivability is great. Starts right up and goes as it should. Now don't get me wrong, I never go over 75 with this thing but it would be nice to have a bit more power if I needed it. So...I vaguely remembered that in one of my parts stashes from the days of my FJ60, I had a Webber 38/38 laying around. I am ecstatic! Will give that a good cleaning and I will throw it on there to see if it makes a difference. Based on interweb searches, it should make a noticeable difference. Will report after.
 
Been a few days since I have chimed in on here. I have eliminated the "t" junction as the motor ran a little hotter than I like. I have been running it per LCE's direction with the heater core return running into the bottom of the intake manifold. It's working fine now. There was a stubborn air bubble in the manifold. I removed the T stat and got it burped, then reinstalled the T stat. I also got heat, yeeeiii.
Now onto something else. The stock rebuilt Aisin that I had installed on the truck prior to my little teardown would push the truck to over 90 mph if I tried. This little Webber 32/36 only gets me 85 if I try hard. I am just a smidge disappointed to say the least. Let's not forget that drivability is great. Starts right up and goes as it should. Now don't get me wrong, I never go over 75 with this thing but it would be nice to have a bit more power if I needed it. So...I vaguely remembered that in one of my parts stashes from the days of my FJ60, I had a Webber 38/38 laying around. I am ecstatic! Will give that a good cleaning and I will throw it on there to see if it makes a difference. Based on interweb searches, it should make a noticeable difference. Will report after.
ive always been disappointed in the progressive weber. the 38/38 should be rad.
 

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