- Thread starter
- #481
And ready do drop in.
Tomorrow, late evening, I'll give it a shot..
Tomorrow, late evening, I'll give it a shot..
Rear tray for my rusty '86 pickup
- Thread starter mongoose2231
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #482
Bastard is in! Twas tge easiest ever engine stab. Dropped it in, eyeballed the alignment for like a second, and bam, slid right in.
Got most everything bolted to the engine. I only need to throw on the headers and the radiator.
Fill with fluids and show it the key.
Got most everything bolted to the engine. I only need to throw on the headers and the radiator.
Fill with fluids and show it the key.
- Thread starter
- #483
Drives a treat! All I am gonna say. I am working on getting a bit of footage together as a bit of a treat.
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- #484
Video here.
- Thread starter
- #485
Update.
I have been driving the ol' gal and realized I had a bit of pinging/ detonation. She was timed at 12 degrees btdc. Power was also, meh. I backed it out to 10 degrees. There was still a bit of detonation. Backed it out some more, to 8 degrees and I could faintly hear pinging in 4th and 5th pulling a hard hill. At 8 and 10, there was noticeable increase in power and torque.now, since I just built this motor, and I want it to last the life time of the truck, I went ahead and took it down to 5 degrees btdc. There is no more pinging and I dont see a noticeable drop in power. I will be driving it like this to see how I like it. So far, I am super happy with the results. I am thinking the machine shop took quite a bit off the head and block, and the compression must have been raised enough to get her to ping.
Will report again soon.
Cheers all, keep on truckin'
I have been driving the ol' gal and realized I had a bit of pinging/ detonation. She was timed at 12 degrees btdc. Power was also, meh. I backed it out to 10 degrees. There was still a bit of detonation. Backed it out some more, to 8 degrees and I could faintly hear pinging in 4th and 5th pulling a hard hill. At 8 and 10, there was noticeable increase in power and torque.now, since I just built this motor, and I want it to last the life time of the truck, I went ahead and took it down to 5 degrees btdc. There is no more pinging and I dont see a noticeable drop in power. I will be driving it like this to see how I like it. So far, I am super happy with the results. I am thinking the machine shop took quite a bit off the head and block, and the compression must have been raised enough to get her to ping.
Will report again soon.
Cheers all, keep on truckin'
Any chance it's lean?
- Thread starter
- #487
I have 140 main jets, I think the carb had 155s initially. It seemed awfully rich. I could smell the darn thing.. I could go back up in size though, to see what happens, but it's only getting, or was getting 16mpg on a good day. That is an indication of too much fuel for this little 4 cylinder, wouldn't it?
I shall go back up to 145 to see what happens.
I shall go back up to 145 to see what happens.
I had to ask. Taking that much timing out doesn't seem right. I could be wrong though.
A lot of carb'd guys get a wide band AFR gauge and swear by them. I don't have one YET. My old flathead is so worn out the blowby would take the sensor out.
All the trucks we've had over the years with 22RE's typically got 16 MPG on completely stock trucks. The best MPG truck I had was an 87 2WD with a 22R with a 4 speed that got fuel economy in the 20's mpg.
A lot of carb'd guys get a wide band AFR gauge and swear by them. I don't have one YET. My old flathead is so worn out the blowby would take the sensor out.
All the trucks we've had over the years with 22RE's typically got 16 MPG on completely stock trucks. The best MPG truck I had was an 87 2WD with a 22R with a 4 speed that got fuel economy in the 20's mpg.
- Thread starter
- #489
Right, good point made above. In hindsight I don't remember getting any better mpg with the stock carb. I am going to look into the AFR and see about that.
Now, I just finished rejetting, went to 145 mains and 180 air correctors. Got the timing back to 12 degrees, and runs great. No pinging. Will be driving a bit to see how it goes about. Thanks guys, help is greatly appreciated.
Now, I just finished rejetting, went to 145 mains and 180 air correctors. Got the timing back to 12 degrees, and runs great. No pinging. Will be driving a bit to see how it goes about. Thanks guys, help is greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #490
And yes, I think she was too lean. Was running 140/ 190.
If your plan is to keep the truck carbed for a long time an AFR gauge is worth it. I bought an Innovate LM-2 years ago to tune my grandfathers 86 F250 after I changed the carb and it was worth it. I could data log the drives and go back and make adjustments. Looking at the price they want is just get a standard AFR meter, use it to tune the truck then remove it.
I’ve had a Carb Cheater setup on my 22R and I’ve found it very helpful for tuning the carb circuits across the rpm change. It also helped demonstrate how much AFR changes with the seasons and weather conditions. The auto tune feature helps balance out the AFR swings.
Interesting. I am looking at their web site and info on what it actually does is scarce. Is this thing metering extra air into the fuel mix to adjust AFR? I can't figure out how it could be adjusting the amount of fuel.I’ve had a Carb Cheater setup on my 22R and I’ve found it very helpful for tuning the carb circuits across the rpm change. It also helped demonstrate how much AFR changes with the seasons and weather conditions. The auto tune feature helps balance out the AFR swings.
There’s a gm idle air control valve and map sensor that are plumbed into the intake by vacuum lines and controlled by a standalone ECU. Based on the Wideband feedback the IAC adjusts air bleed to match whatever your target AFR is. The seller has a YouTube channel that has several good demos of install and tune settings. You can turn off the air bleed function and use the system solely for data logging and Wideband readings as well.
Gotcha, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #496
Trucks beern running real well. I do have a problem, live and learn, as someone once said.
I DO NOT like my new cam! I can barely scrape 75mph if that, on a flat surface. I knew it was a low end torque profile, but they say it pulls to 6k rpm. This is on fact an offroad performance cam, and I knew that when I bought it. I just didn't think it would sacrifice so much of my high end power. It's got great pull down low, but I never found myself wanting with the stock cam. I am going to swap back my old cam, which was in excellent shape. I only ran this new one for less that 50 miles if that, so I expect my rockers won't need replacement.
Bad idea? Good idea?
I am only worried about unclamping the head. Fear of coolant getting in the cylinders once head bolt torque is 0. I will use my boroscope to check cylinders when getting it back together.
Let's see.
I DO NOT like my new cam! I can barely scrape 75mph if that, on a flat surface. I knew it was a low end torque profile, but they say it pulls to 6k rpm. This is on fact an offroad performance cam, and I knew that when I bought it. I just didn't think it would sacrifice so much of my high end power. It's got great pull down low, but I never found myself wanting with the stock cam. I am going to swap back my old cam, which was in excellent shape. I only ran this new one for less that 50 miles if that, so I expect my rockers won't need replacement.
Bad idea? Good idea?
I am only worried about unclamping the head. Fear of coolant getting in the cylinders once head bolt torque is 0. I will use my boroscope to check cylinders when getting it back together.
Let's see.
I've done 3 cam changes without a head gasket problem. I did drain the coolant down. I did put a few bolts back with spacers on them as I pulled stuff off. You have the weight of the manifolds and such helping too. Just be careful.
The best cam I ever had was an Engnbldr 270. Was supposedly the biggest you could run with stock EFI. Excellent midrange and top end power. Where it's needed on the street and highway. The slight loss of low end wasn't a problem at all. Low gears off road make up for it. Didn't really hurt on the street either. I had proper gear ratio for my tires as well.
You're not going to hurt the rockers or the cam.
The best cam I ever had was an Engnbldr 270. Was supposedly the biggest you could run with stock EFI. Excellent midrange and top end power. Where it's needed on the street and highway. The slight loss of low end wasn't a problem at all. Low gears off road make up for it. Didn't really hurt on the street either. I had proper gear ratio for my tires as well.
You're not going to hurt the rockers or the cam.
- Thread starter
- #498
Yeah, I need this to go down the road proper, I dont want to have my foot buried in it just to maintain 75. I'll be switching back to the stock camshaft because I liked how the truck could do 90 if wanted it. Not that 70 isn't the targeted speed for me. But to get to 70 feels like a chore. Gotta get the stocker right back in there.
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- #499
If I add all this weight on the back, maybe I should keep the cam!
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- #500
Changed the cam. Took all of two hours. Drove the truck, pulls hard even at the top. I do have pinging again, slightly though. I may retard it two degrees to 10 btdc to see what that does. These carbed engines are such a treat, it's like figuring out a puzzle. 