Rear Tire Carrier Build w/picks

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Next up was determining the location of the latch hook on the bumper, drilling the holes; touch up w/ paint, then installing the grade 8 bolts. In the attached picture I used a scrap piece of the ½ inch nylon behind the latch to bring the latch out from the main 2x3 support. I will be welding in steel to bring out the latch to make sure I get the latch arm pulling the carrier in tight.
latch pads view.webp
 
Tonight I will be working on the 2 gussets I purchased from 4x4 labs to add to the lft and rt outside edge of the hoop that will provide additional strength. More detail to come once these are welded in place.
gusset.webp
 
irongrady said:
That last pics looks like a tough spot to make a nice pass..I'm impressed the weld looks as good as it does in there..
Click to expand...


I was surprised at how much room i had to actually work with. Removing the bumper is a must. I had to flip the bumper upside down to do some of the welds.
 
I worked a little more on the carrier last night. I placed the pad on the face of the bumper for the striker to sit against. Same material that was used for the main 2x3 carrier to rest on the top of the bumper. I also cut, drilled and welded in the mount for the locking latch.

I'm getting really close to finishing this thing up. I now have to weld in the bracket for the tire to mount to, place the gussets and weld in the pin to hold the carrier open so it wont bash into my quarter panel.
front pad and hook.webp
latch_hook_stopper.webp
carrier in place.webp
 
davegonz said:
Zane,

Are you using that DeStaco clamp as the primary means of holding the tire closed or just to snub it together? Or are you using a pin as well?
Click to expand...

David,

I am using both the clamp you see in the picture above as well as a spring pin that will be welded in place on the spindle that will drop in a hole on the top of the bumper to lock it closed as well as another hole that it will drop into to keep the carrier open when I need to open the rear gate. It will function just likes Slee's set up.
 
Zane, before you continue, talk to Spresso about installing two spring pins. One by the latch (to keep carrier closed) and one by the hinge (to keep carrier open). It's a matter of preference but I think it would be easier to operate especially if you tow a lot.
 
yup, with a vertical tension clamp it seems that you need something else to stop the fore / aft motion. I see you have a vertical pad in the rear but you might want to make sure the pin holes are not too big and there is no play.
 
hoser said:
Zane, before you continue, talk to Spresso about installing two spring pins. One by the latch (to keep carrier closed) and one by the hinge (to keep carrier open). It's a matter of preference but I think it would be easier to operate especially if you tow a lot.
Click to expand...


Yes...when towing my trailer, which is often, I found just utilizing the pin at the pivot point of the swing arm (stock Slee bumper location) a hassle. So I welded in a piece of steel plate on the swing arm pivot side so that the pin only locks in place when the swing arm is in the open position. Then I welded another duplicate pin assembly onto the latch end of the swing arm to serve as the safety catch when the swing arm is in the closed position.

After Locrwln1 had his bumper latch break on a recent trip to DV I think the "safety pin" is a good idea just in case. Or you could carry a ReadyWelder like Locrwln1 does and weld the broken clamp back together, as he did, to get home ;).

To keep from scraping the limit bumper across the trailer tongue when its not perfectly level I moved it closer to the swing arm pivot. Mechanically speaking its better to have the "bumper" close to the latch for the best mechanical advantage. However I have not had any issues after relocating it and it is WAY more convenient when the trailer is in tow and I have to swing the tire carrier arm open.

I should have added the second pin assembly before I backed into that Euc tree...might have saved my rear hatch :rolleyes:.

It all works very well now for my purposes. Of course if you don't plan to pull a trailer like I do it probably doesn't matter.
 
I got some garage time in last night and was able to weld in the adjustable wheel mount and wheel studs. I also attached the carrier to the bumper and placed a tire on it to test fit and everything was level! :bounce:.

I did run into a snag that I'm a little upset about. The OEM wheels studs stick out a hair to long and do not allow the lug nuts to tighten the wheel on tight. :( My solution is simple and that will be to place one washer on each wheel stud and that will bring the wheel out just enough to allow the lug nut to snug the tire in tight.

Next up is adding my gussets to the hoops as mentioned in a previous post. I'm also going to add in some gussets to the adjustable wheel mount. I don't think I really need it, but i would rather it be overdone then look back and notice my tire is missing...

I expect some level of movement of the "hoop" once the tire is mounted on the carrier and I suspect that once I add the gussets to the hoops it will be less. For those of you with a rear tire carrier what type of movement/vibration do you see from the Hoop when you hit it with your fist?

Thanks

Zane
wheel studs.webp
top wheel studs.webp
sliding arm.webp
 
MMMMMMMMMMMMM.....Newcastle.
 
oo thanks for the reminder I gotta go pick up another case of that later, ran out the other night.


Zane, its coming along very nicely. You're making me want to get a welder for xmas instead of a computer!
 
Zane, instead of getting 5 washers why not just double up the backing plate?

The Slee carrier is very stout with little movement even with a 35" spare.
 
sleeoffroad said:
As long as you suck the tire into the hoop a little you will not have movement. Nice build :D
Click to expand...

so, i didn't make my hoop tall enough for the top of the hoop to touch the tire, but the tire touches the sides of the hoop when i snug the tire close to the hoops. I hope this is fine?
 
Nice work Zane, its coming along good. Can't wait to see the final product climbing around Moab 09!
JT
 
I found washers at my local hardware store that are a perfect fit over the wheel studs that move the tire out just enough for the lug nuts to tighten the wheel on the carrier.

I also cut and welded in the gussets for the hoops. I'm trying to decide if adding gussets under the adjustable tire mount is overkill or not. Do you guys think how its welded on is enough or should I add gussets under it?

Zane
gussets.webp
gussets2.webp
 
Did you consider adding a tube or angle iron behind the lower edge of the support plate? That would add some rigidity and maybe eliminate that skinny vertical member you have welded there in the middle.
crossmember.webp
 
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