REAR MOTOR MOUNTS AND REAR DRIVESHAFT CLEARANCE (1 Viewer)

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Hi All. This is my first thread. I can usually find answers using the search. This time I can't seem to find any answers about the driveshaft length, and the info I found on the rear motor mounts was at least 10 years old.

Ok here goes:

Background: I bought my '73 pig about a year and a half ago running, but with a bad trans. It turned out to be a bad Hone overdrive, I think the PO put it in reverse while it was still engaged. Other than the bad trans and some mild suspension and drivetrain mods, it is a pretty honest, complete and original example. A couple of modifications that are relevent to my questions are that I believe it has a mild spring lift, and a later disc brake complete front axle swap, and FJ40 rear axle (no sway bar tabs on axle tubes). Front axle has the later bolt pattern on the pinion flange, but the rear pinion flange is early.
The Plot Thickens: I replaced the 3 speed trans/TC/Hone OD with a good used Trans/TC without an overdrive. What a PITA that was. I bought a stock rear driveshaft from one of the Land Cruiser dismantlers to install with this stock trans/TC. Two things I noticed when I tried to assemble:

First- Even fully compressed, the stock driveshaft I bought does not want to fit between the two flanges. When I was cleaning/greasing it before I attempted the install, I noticed that the locating ring on one of the mounting flanges was dented like someone else had the same problem with this driveshaft and forced it into place. I pulled apart the slip joint and lined up the two driveshaft pieces. It looks like they were fully compressed when I attempted my install, but it was getting dark yesterday so I still need to double check today that I don't have a slug of grease inside the short section. I see a few possibilties, but they all require dimensions from a stock pig.
1) The driveshaft is too long.
2) There is a big glob of grease stopping the slip yoke from fully compressing.
3) The centering pins on the (Downey?) rear leaves move the axle too far forward (the rear wheels look centered in the wheel wells). Note: It does have stock length shackles.
4) The ebrake/output flange isn't fully seated.
5) The sagging rear motor mounts are "shortening" the distance between the flanges. Which leads me to the second issue...

Second- When I attempted to install the skid plate I noticed the transfer case is touching the skid plate before the skid plate touches the frame rails.. A PO bolted a piece of tire between the TC and the skid plate, now I know why.

My Questions:
1) Does anyone have flange to flange dimensions for the rear driveshaft with their stock(ish) rig on the ground, and a leaf spring dimension from the axle tube to the forward leaf spring bushing?
2) Where do I purchase a pair of quality, new rear motor mounts for a 73 FJ55?

Thanks for putting up with my long-winded questions.
-Tom

And now, a photo.

PetuniaPig.jpg
 
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scrapdaddy

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Here's a link to Spector's....Page 040 Land Cruiser Gasoline Engine Motor Mounts

After replacing your mounts, if you think they're bad then measure from flange to flange and have your rear shaft remade to fit. I wouldn't go by anybody else's measurement, too much has changed on your drivetrain.

Nice wagon and why aren't you going to the Pig Party! :)
 
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Here's a link to Spector's....Page 040 Land Cruiser Gasoline Engine Motor Mounts

After replacing your mounts, if you think they're bad then measure from flange to flange and have your rear shaft remade to fit. I wouldn't go by anybody else's measurement, too much has changed on your drivetrain.

Nice wagon and why aren't you going to the Pig Party! :)

I looked through all the suppliers for the correct motor mounts. That link only has mounts for FJ40/45. All I can find are Anchor and Westar rear motor mounts. I'm not a fan of Anchor and never heard of Westar...

For the driveshaft, really it's only the lift that's changed from stock. The FJ40 rear axle should be identical other than the missing swaybar tabs.

Thanks! I've been trying to get it ready for PP18, but with the delays in parts delivery and problems like these slowing me down I think I might not be finished in time :poop: I still have a pretty long list of things to do before I take an 8 hour trek across the desert.
 
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I thought those mounts were all the same for 40 and 55. I guess not.
I wish. What surprises me is that Toyota quit making them. I get that they can't continue to make everything, but a motor mount is a core mechanical part.
 
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Update: I was able to get the driveshaft to fit without hammers, cussing, or pry bars. Someone greased the sh** out of the slip yoke, keeping me from being able to shorten it enough to fit it between the flanges. I only have about ~3/16” left to compress on the driveshaft with the truck on the ground. Is this enough?
 
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Sorry late to the party and reading on a cell phone so please excuse.
If we're talking about the rear then check at full droop if you still have clearance then we'll see you at the party you should be good to go.
As the rear compresses it moves away from the transfer.
 
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Fixed end of the spring is in the front,on a SUA as the spring compress it straightens out making it longer moving the rear end back, at full droop everything should pivot forward.
At least that's my memory of events when I measured mine for new drive shafts.
 
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Sorry late to the party and reading on a cell phone so please excuse.
If we're talking about the rear then check at full droop if you still have clearance then we'll see you at the party you should be good to go.
As the rear compresses it moves away from the transfer.
Thanks for the vote of confidence J Mack :beer:
I wish the list was that short. I still need to swap the carb/intake, and install the new points distributor. This Holley/Offy setup hasn’t run right since I bought it. I’ve rebuilt the carb and tuned it twice, and pulled and checked the vacuum retard distributor more than once. It’s still backfiring through the carb and exhaust, and won’t hold idle. I’m done with both :bang: Ordered a brand new distributor and Trollhole carb. I still need to buy the updated distributor clamp (missed the cityracer fine print when I ordered) and a phenolic spacer for the carb. At least I was able to drive it up and down the street to test the trans. All three gears work, so that’s a small victory :)

I also need to track down a window regulator spring for the driver’s door. It broke a few months back. And get the rear window working. And and... :beer:
 

RUSH55

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Take the grease zirk out and see if you can compress it any farther. If you cannot, then I will say, no, 3/16” is NOT enough. The slip yoke should sit somewhere in the middle of its travel (1” - 1-1/2” from full compression).

Is your Holley/Offy setup a 4 barrel?
 

wngrog

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Thanks for the vote of confidence J Mack :beer:
I wish the list was that short. I still need to swap the carb/intake, and install the new points distributor. This Holley/Offy setup hasn’t run right since I bought it. I’ve rebuilt the carb and tuned it twice, and pulled and checked the vacuum retard distributor more than once. It’s still backfiring through the carb and exhaust, and won’t hold idle. I’m done with both :bang: Ordered a brand new distributor and Trollhole carb. I still need to buy the updated distributor clamp (missed the cityracer fine print when I ordered) and a phenolic spacer for the carb. At least I was able to drive it up and down the street to test the trans. All three gears work, so that’s a small victory :)

I also need to track down a window regulator spring for the driver’s door. It broke a few months back. And get the rear window working. And and... :beer:


Message me. I have rear door guts I think
 

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