NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
Did you have that done by the dealer? What did it set you back and how long ago, if you don't mind me asking?
rear main seal? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bluecruiser
- Start date
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I have my own shop. Did it myself on a weekend. Total cost was the seal, FPIG, and some beers for a friend that helped me get the trans out. It was done on a lift with a transmission jack, i can't imagine getting that beast of a unit out without one.
I was quoted a couple of years back by a local cruiser shop (before i opened my own) at around 1400-1600 if i recall.
Just found the same leak on my truck. Pulled brush guards to check a power steering leak and grease driveshafts, and noticed it.
3000 miles after first oil change since purchase. Not sure what PO used but I used Mobil 1 high mileage. I’m at 141k miles. Was going to do an oil change and add some at-205 this weekend to see how it does.
What’s everyone’s preferred oil to use?
3000 miles after first oil change since purchase. Not sure what PO used but I used Mobil 1 high mileage. I’m at 141k miles. Was going to do an oil change and add some at-205 this weekend to see how it does.
What’s everyone’s preferred oil to use?
I just got a quote from a mechanic who owns and runs his own shop in Mesa, AZ. For my 2009 GX470, the rear main seal plus labor was quoted at $1070 + Tax. I'll have him troubleshoot the leak as I think it's the rear main seal, but I'm not 100% sure. A few months ago I replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket which was leaking and I see no oil on the outside of the engine below the valve covers or around the upper or lower oil pan. I may also have him replace the transmission seal while the tranny is out.
I had this issue when my mechanic used non synthetic oil. I usually use Mobil1 high millage. It leaked with non synthetic. I replaced oil with Mobil1 and the leaking appeared to stop after a few days. The key is to use high mileage oil since it appears to cause the gaskets to swell a little to stop the leaking.
I’ve heard that HM oil once introduced into the engine for more than 1 change interval requires continuous use of HM oil, otherwise you’ll get leaks. No idea if that’s true but the last few posts lends some anecdotal evidence of that.
You would be correct.
Noticed my started leaking pretty good recently.
After cleaning and inspecting this is what’s collected since Sunday. Plastic skid plate is off.
I haven’t noticed a meaningful change in oil level. How bad is this? It looks pretty bad to me.
Should I try a conventional and see if that helps before taking it in?
I’ve been using Mobil 1 (not HM) since buying the truck 30k miles ago. Not sure what the PO used.
What else should/can be done with RMS with the tranny dropped? I’m at 252k
After cleaning and inspecting this is what’s collected since Sunday. Plastic skid plate is off.
I haven’t noticed a meaningful change in oil level. How bad is this? It looks pretty bad to me.
Should I try a conventional and see if that helps before taking it in?
I’ve been using Mobil 1 (not HM) since buying the truck 30k miles ago. Not sure what the PO used.
What else should/can be done with RMS with the tranny dropped? I’m at 252k
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If you proceed with seal swap be sure to check the pressure plate...mine was cracked significantly (known issue)...and plan parts buy accordingly. You might see a reduction in the leak volume by switching to conventional or as I did: 5-50w Amsoil (yes, I'm an Amsoil fan...been using it for 30+ years).
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Are you referring to the flex plate? I have not heard of the pressure plate before.
Yeah, sorry..."flex plate". Must be my old age memory, or lack of 
Are you 100% sure it is RMS? I was once told by a shop that my RMS was leaking (around 250k at that point), only to discover that it was leaking from the valve cover gasket at the back of the engine, where the semi-moon peices are!
Definitely the lack of your old age.Yeah, sorry..."flex plate". Must be my old age memory, or lack of
Still trying to nail it down. I’d much prefer it be the valve covers. They look fine up front but I’ll check the rear.
i had my RMS done a few weeks ago (2009 GX470 with 150k miles). Cost was about $1,000 for seal and labor. RMS was leaking more and more over the last few months and now it no longer leaks. While my mechanic had the tranny out, he replaced the tranny seal as a preventative measure. Don't have the exact name, but your mechanic should know which one to replace. I too use synthetic oil and have stuck with it but I did replace all diff and transfer case oil with Amsoil and might consider the same for engine oil.
All day job at Toyota dealer. Paid $1350 three months ago for my 2001 LC.
Think I'm in the same boat as the rest of the people here.... Just had the truck into the shop for an oil change and general checkup, wonder if they maybe changed up the oil from high mileage... It wasn't there before.
They found some leaks in the radiator and thermostat during that visit, so I drove it home, parked it, ordered all those parts and installed the new radiator, and hadn't moved it since. There's no reason why anything I did would cause this leak... right?
They found some leaks in the radiator and thermostat during that visit, so I drove it home, parked it, ordered all those parts and installed the new radiator, and hadn't moved it since. There's no reason why anything I did would cause this leak... right?
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I don't believe it was anything you did. Rubber is old on these trucks and some places are prone to leak eventually, cam seals included. I think i ran mine like that for a year or so before I replaced the seal. You should be okay unless there is a puddle on the ground. Just keep an eye on the oil level.
that looks real dirty for freshly changed engine oil. and it looks reddish. Can you confirm it's not red? aka transmission fluid?
It was coolant, picking up a little bit of oil somewhere along the way. Sorry, responded in another thread that I forgot to set a spring clip. All leaking stopped after that.
That's great!
