Rear Heater Lines Replacement (1 Viewer)

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So I know many have bypassed and abandoned the rear heater lines, but I decided to replace them in my 97 LX450 in an effort to keep things as stock as possible during it's refurb. I've read several threads referencing that the trans may need to be dropped to swap out both sets of lines. My question is this:

Can the lines be replaced with the head off, front cat and downpipe removed? I can also remove the heat shields as well if needed.

The new lines (both upper and lower) and all new clamps have already arrived. Thinking I will hit them with some extra Rustoleum paint for another layer of protection before install. The old lines lasted 23 years, so I can't hate too much. Plus, I love the rear heat and use it every winter to dry wet gloves or my hat after being out in the snow.

Looks like I may have enough room to slide them out the side? Still need to remove the downpipe and first CAT.
20200613_153814[1].jpg
 
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Posting this up as info that may help another member at some point. You CAN NOT replace the rear heater lines even with the head off, exhaust down pipe and the hanger where it clamps on to removed. I'm attempting a work around and will report back results when the truck is back up and running.

Remove the old lines. Mine started leaking as soon as I removed the heat shield for the exhaust and bumped them. I was very close to a failure.
20200717_115536[1].jpg


Install the new lines section that connects to the blower housing under the pass seat. Then either eyeball or use you old lines as a template and cut them after they pass over the frame and ~2" up on the flat portion that hugs the trans tunnel going vertical. You can see the stock connects on the top and my connects with Toyota clamps at the bottom. I marked the hose so I knew where I wanted the clamps to sit once I put the pipe in on both sides. Remember to debur your pipe on both sides.
20200822_111409[1].jpg


I put the top bolts in loosely to hold the lines in rough position on the top side. You can now sneak the bends around the bell housing from the pass side.
20200822_120709[1].jpg


Then I made the connect on the lower side to the factory connect point. I did not slide the retainer plate over the stud yet co I could move it around to connect the join hoses.
20200822_120631[1].jpg


Finally I connected the hoses on the other side of where I made the cut, again using all factory hose and new clamps, making sure the metal from the clamps was touching each other, not the bare hose. Then slide the retainer plate over the stud and tighten the nut down.
20200822_120636[1].jpg


I did not flare the lines. This will either work or I wasted the money on the new lines and I will bypass the system. Figured it was worth a shot to keep things as stock as possible without having to drop the trans.
 
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I believe, as OP stated, you can't. You have to cut the front section in two parts to do so, then join them back together with a section of hose.

I have the head off and was looking at replacing them. Just decided to delete instead.
 
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The first section from the firewall is 87209-60301. The rear section under the truck is 87209-60441. These are just the two different sections of bare pipes, no hoses or clamps.

Front list is $261 and rear is $176.
 

Hornd

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I think the Rear Heater is nice for Back Seat Passengers - And it is a Heritage Item (40 Had Rear Heater)
Going to use Silicone Hose, as I'm not paying $450 to keep Rear Heater.
 

brettk

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The first section from the firewall is 87209-60301. The rear section under the truck is 87209-60441. These are just the two different sections of bare pipes, no hoses or clamps.

Front list is $261 and rear is $176.

You’re the man, thanks!

Going to use Silicone Hose, as I'm not paying $450 to keep Rear Heater.

Looks like they’re $230 on amayama
 
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FWIW someone?? was attempting to re-engineer a set of rear heater pipes and/or hoses to be mounted more over to the right side of the firewall so that they could be installed/serviced more easily. Haven't seen any updates
 
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Yeah the rear section looks to be no problem... Its just the front section !! There is a bracket holding the two pipes together and was wondering if you cut the bracket and separate the front two lines maybe you can snake them in to place ?? Anyone try this ?
 

Onur

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Yeah the rear section looks to be no problem... Its just the front section !! There is a bracket holding the two pipes together and was wondering if you cut the bracket and separate the front two lines maybe you can snake them in to place ?? Anyone try this ?

Yes.
 
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Yeah the rear section looks to be no problem... Its just the front section !! There is a bracket holding the two pipes together and was wondering if you cut the bracket and separate the front two lines maybe you can snake them in to place ?? Anyone try this ?

Yes, or you can cut the lines and splice with short sections of hose as a recent poster did.

I added them to my cart on Megazip and used the coupon code. They were $217.03 shipped via FedEx for the pair.

I used the non-US OE rear heat delete hose from Wit's End. My pipes were rusted through and I don't use the rear heat.
 
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I did a bunch of research on threads prior to my attempt. Others have replaced the lines with hoses and had success, but my lines lasted 280k and 24 years so I'm not gonna hate on that. I wanted the stock lines and look and want them to last over time again, just didn't want to have to pull the trans for the line swap. I like the rear heat both for making the truck hella toasty warm and for warming/drying gloves that may be wet from snow removal. I also have a truck where I deleted the rear lines, so I can see both sides.

Regardless, I did what I thought was easy for me to handle and it is holding up just fine so far under DD use.
 
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I did a bunch of research on threads prior to my attempt. Others have replaced the lines with hoses and had success, but my lines lasted 280k and 24 years so I'm not gonna hate on that. I wanted the stock lines and look and want them to last over time again, just didn't want to have to pull the trans for the line swap. I like the rear heat both for making the truck hella toasty warm and for warming/drying gloves that may be wet from snow removal. I also have a truck where I deleted the rear lines, so I can see both sides.

Regardless, I did what I thought was easy for me to handle and it is holding up just fine so far under DD use.
Thanks for the follow up !! I was thinking just cutting the bracket and splitting the lines apart would work but after researching here on MUD and reviewing what you did it really looks like cutting the new lines and splicing in another hose joint may be the only way to get this done since I only plan on taking off the Valve Cover ( Oil leak fix ) when I refresh all my coolant hoses. I just hate to give up that rear heater !!

Glad yours is still doing fine !!!
 

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