Eyedaho
SILVER Star
That almost looks like the magnet came loose from the end of the plug or something like that?
Rear Differential Fluid Change (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jp213a
- Start date
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She is a smooth shifter and driver. Any clunking always is mitigated with driveline greasing.
Here are some detail pics:
I don’t see any issues if they are different brands as long as they are LS rated and of the same viscosity.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Do the 100s without rear lockers need LS additive in the rear? My rig doesn't, but it has a locking rear and open front, and maybe the non locking rears are different?
The LS rated gear oil is compatible with an open type of diff. However the non-LS rated gear oil is not compatible with an LSD or locking-diff type. I remember a few years ago one of my buddies (I don’t know what he was thinking) put in a non-LS oil on his rear LSD diff (it was a 1KDFTV 3.0 Hilux) and after a few miles of driving it started giving out a loud grinding noise. He was lucky he as able to pull over and there was no damage on the ring/pinion gears nor the LSD. We dropped the oil, put in an LS type oil and the noise never came back.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Yes, if you have a limited slip differential then you definitely need the additive (either in the oil or added to it) or you'll roast the clutches. I just didn't know if any 100 have LS diffs.
My previous GCC 2009 200 series had rear factory locking diff. It required to use an LS type of gear on it per FSM, and Toyota has one (just forgot the part number but any dealer has it). The other air operated arb locking diffs that I worked on before, I used LS gear on all of them, and I think it’s stipulated on the air locker manual itself too. I think that additive if I’m not mistaken its called “friction modifier”.
Knocked out all three today. Giving the LX a 200k spa day. Used Mobil 1 75w90LS all the way around. Bought a hand pump but it didn't fit the oil bottles so I used a clean Gatorade bottle and filled that way. Planning on opening fill valves for all 3 later in the week and topping off as needed. Front and x case were normal but found 2 larger shards than I was comfortable with in the rear.
Any thoughts on this in the rear? I am thinking about doing another change in a few thousand miles and seeing what's there..... tia
Any thoughts on this in the rear? I am thinking about doing another change in a few thousand miles and seeing what's there..... tia
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Has anyone ever had to deal with the drain plug threads in the axle housing being stripped/cross threaded?
Dealer said they found it cross threaded when they did the rear axle seal ~6mo ago. I just pulled the plugs to replace the fluid since did some water crossings. New plug won’t thread in smoothly.
Was planning to try running a tap through it to see if I can clean it up but wanted to see if anyone had any other good ideas or motivational words.
Dealer said they found it cross threaded when they did the rear axle seal ~6mo ago. I just pulled the plugs to replace the fluid since did some water crossings. New plug won’t thread in smoothly.
Was planning to try running a tap through it to see if I can clean it up but wanted to see if anyone had any other good ideas or motivational words.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I wouldn't be scared to chase the threads with a tap personally, but I would maybe do another oil change shortly after in case you get some chips in the diff, or at least pay attention to that possiblity.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Thanks @Eyedaho. I had the same idea and picked up this metric tap kit from Harbor Freight that had the correct size for the plug threads. Ran it through and it cleaned up the threads nicely. Went ahead and flushed with some fresh gear oil to wash our any of the shavings I might have missed. Figured I share this in case anyone else runs into issues in the future.
Titanium Nitride Coated Alloy Steel Metric Tap & Die Set, 45 Pc. - https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-alloy-steel-metric-tap-die-set-45-pc-61410.html
Titanium Nitride Coated Alloy Steel Metric Tap & Die Set, 45 Pc. - https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-alloy-steel-metric-tap-die-set-45-pc-61410.html
Nice set.
IF a person doesn't need/want and entire set...but needs to 'chase' the threads on fill/drain holes (differentials and Tcase) then the opposite end of a spark plug thread chaser is the correct size (18mm x 1.5).
My JDM 02 has a limited slip rear, badged rear cover, factory.
I've been buying the Valvoline pouch by the case since it came out. I change diff and TC case fluids more than most due to the number of water and mud crossings I do during a year. The ease of use was a game-changer.
So, my manual only lists 85w, but It gets down to -30 celcius up here in Canada...stick with the 75 for some viscosity then? Oh, and it's LSD factory 2002 as well.
Pressurized pump is even easier
Where did you find a penny?
