Rear axle bearings pics
- Thread starter Skidoo
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Question for those that have pulled the axles. Once the axle assemble is removed, how freely do they spin? I have a set of axle assembles that are in good condition, but there is a lot of resistance when trying to spin the axles in the housing.
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I've searched and searched...are there any write ups on replacing the rear wheel bearings?
With FSM and below you should be able to get done. If you need step by step, job may not be for you.
forum.ih8mud.com
Rear Axle Leak
forum.ih8mud.com
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
What are you all using to drive inner axle seal? I can't seem to come up with a single kit with a diameter of 68mm-70mm. They all jump from 65 to 72 without anything in between.
What I used to drive in the inner oil seal on the rear axle was an old toothed washer off the front hub of a 100 series and a socket for the front spindle nut. See picture. These seals are sometimes difficult to get started straight. Lots of light tapping and checking to make sure it doesn't get cocked. It is cheap insurance to buy an extra seal in case things go sideways when installing one of them. Best of luck.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Thanks for the tips. I already ruined one and so I ordered another pair. Sounds like @NLXTACY might need some measurements from me
- Thread starter
- #28
I don't remember what I used for that seal, but know I have used PVC pipe or couplings on some seals. Cheap and easy on the seal.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Good tip. PVC works. I'll provide some details in a subsequent post.
I have a question though that I need help with. When the axle is all assembled, is there supposed to be about 2-4mm of play between the axle and the hub assembly? Its like the wheel bearing outer race has a little translation inboard and outboard. And the hub will shift back and forth depending on whether you have the axle resting of the diff/spline side vs the wheel stud side. And yes, the c-clip inboard of the outer retainer ring was properly installed.
It's enough to make the outboard dust seal get caught/stuck inside the oil deflector on the backside of the axle flange.
In this last photo, I fought with the outboard dust seal to get it back against the hub, but if I tip the axle so that the wheel studs are on the floor, that seal will get pushed back into the oil deflector.
- Thread starter
- #30
That does not seem right. If I remember correctly the inner race of the bearing is split. Wild guess here, but any chance it is not fully pressed on?
Think I see the spacer between the bearing and heavy ring, leaving that out might cause this.
I am not a fan of that outboard seal, it gave me a lot of trouble, as I mentioned earlier in this thread.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Thanks for taking a look. The washer is installed. I do not believe that it is possible not press on the bearing, washer, and inner retainer and still fit the c-clip. I believe that I have it right now. Outboard seal is where it needs to be and stays put when the bearing slides slightly in the hub. Note that the sliding only happens when the assembly is out of the truck. It's firm and solid once the spline ends are in the diff and the hub is bolted to the axle housing.
I recall the fit between the outer bearing race and the housing being a close fit but not a super tight interference fit like the inner race is on the axle. This allowed the bearing to move some in the housing. It is a little disconcerting that the outer seal would be 'popping out'. It might be worth while trying to clean the surfaces and apply some adhesive to help keep it in place as a previous poster in this thread has done.
I noticed the leak today while trying to do rear breaks today. I think it is the outer seal which requires special tools and press. I really like to attack the problem but perhaps best to take to trusted mechanic. Any advise is appreciated.
3 pics from driver side where it is leaking and 1 pic from PS which is dry.
3 pics from driver side where it is leaking and 1 pic from PS which is dry.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
I would guess that in order for the outer seal to leak the inner seal would have to be leaking as well.
If you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have a press or the specialized tool for this axles work, yeah, it's better to let a shop do it. It's a big job. Not hard, just lots of stuff to get right.
If you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have a press or the specialized tool for this axles work, yeah, it's better to let a shop do it. It's a big job. Not hard, just lots of stuff to get right.
The inner seal, is the issue. Once the inner seal leaks, the area between it and axle bearing fill with gear lube. Pulling wheel speed sensor will confirm this has or has not filled with gear lube. Gear lube may than enter into sealed axle bearings. If gear lube does get into the bearings pass its seal, bearings will fail.
The inner seal alone, can be replace without a press. It requires pulling axle from differential tube.
The inner seal alone, can be replace without a press. It requires pulling axle from differential tube.
Thanks a lot for the great explanation. I will remove speed sensor and check. Understanding better how this is setup now, I think it will have oil there.
What is interesting that back side is dry. I have seen pics where back is wet too.
Perhaps I could just change the inner seal after conforming there is no bearing play and make sure there are no more leaks.
What is interesting that replaced gear oil maybe couple of months ago. Perhaps breather could be an issue. Not sure how that could be checked - try to see if air can go out?
Haven't done this on my cruiser yet, but did buy a special tool for use with my press to do it on both my 00 Tundra rear axles. Not a fun job and alignment of that spacer is key. When I bought the adapter kit (ebay I think... same seller as recommended by the video posted above), I asked if it could be used on my LC, and he sent me a couple of additional pieces for a few more dollars. It all worked out well, but a press was a must IMO.
Had this same issue. Ended up having local Toyota garage fix. Expensive, but if it fails its warrantied nationally, so some additional peace of mind.
If you are doing the fix yourself @GVegasG I have all the parts (new) on a shelf in my garage. Purchased from partsouq as I initially intended to do the job myself, but ran out of time. Message me if interested.
If you are doing the fix yourself @GVegasG I have all the parts (new) on a shelf in my garage. Purchased from partsouq as I initially intended to do the job myself, but ran out of time. Message me if interested.
I took out brake sensors. Both are wet, one side more than other. So I think both inner seals are out. Perhaps I can do that as a first measure. Should check the breather as well in case it is because of that or maybe I overfilled it when changed the oil.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
The breather is easy to check. Just pull it off and blow it, right @2001LC ? Or just preventatively replace?