Edit;So it suppose to let air out but not in? It is suppose to let air out.
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Rear axle bearings pics
- Thread starter Skidoo
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Just noticed that my driver side axle has a very minor leak. I skimmed through this thread really quick, but was just wondering if there are 2 oil seals that need to be replaced and if the bearing needs to be removed to get to an oil seal or just remove axle from hub? I am going to get tool to remove bearing assembly, but I pretty sure just fixing the leak with new oil seals should do thr trick..
You just need to remove the axle to get to the seal. There is O ring that should be replaced as well.
So the press and bearing tools are just necessary to remove bearing from shaft and not to remove bearing from shaft to get to oil seal on shaft.. Sorry for the dumb question, I am about to dig up my fsm and see what's up... Just wanted a heads up...
The tool is to remove the bearing from the half axle. When you pull the half-axle off the housing, the oil seal stays inside the axle housing: the half axle comes out with the bearing.
Make sure you do the sharpie test: that is you draw few strokes of sharpie marks on the retainer ring (which runs on the oil seal lip). Then slide the axle into the housing and press it all the way in. You can mount two bolts on oppotite sides and tighten it (not 100%). spin the hub few rounds and take the axle out again and inspect the sharpie marks. The lip of the oil seal should ride right in the middle of the retainer ring as indicated by worn sharpie marks. If it is not centered, you want to adjust the location of the oil seal inside the housing.
Look for Timmy the tool man's 3rd gen 4runner rear axle video where he explains this sharpie test if you want to see the video.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
Starting at roughly 1:52 in this video I discuss it as well and show some close ups of the axle and sealing surfaces. Might be other shots in that video that are helpful, too.
^^^
Yes! See the difference in the ride surface of the oil seal lip at 10:48 (not centered) and 11:40 (centered and CORRECT)
Yes! See the difference in the ride surface of the oil seal lip at 10:48 (not centered) and 11:40 (centered and CORRECT)
This thread was really helpful for rebuilding my axles, thanks everyone.
I ruined the first inner axle seal that I tried to install (using a claw washer from the front hubs).
I ended up 3D printing a seal driver that's exactly the right diameter and depth. I uploaded the model here. This was faster and easier than going to dig through plumbing parts at the store. I put the seals in the freezer before the next attempts as well.
I then used part of the axle bearing press tool to drive that 3D printed seal driver in. This is obviously not necessary, but it worked great. It would be difficult to mess up a seal with this method.
I ruined the first inner axle seal that I tried to install (using a claw washer from the front hubs).
I ended up 3D printing a seal driver that's exactly the right diameter and depth. I uploaded the model here. This was faster and easier than going to dig through plumbing parts at the store. I put the seals in the freezer before the next attempts as well.
I then used part of the axle bearing press tool to drive that 3D printed seal driver in. This is obviously not necessary, but it worked great. It would be difficult to mess up a seal with this method.
Last night I had asked about the part numbers that were needed for this repair and continued to look.
I called the shop that completed the diagnoses, provided the estimate etc but they were unable/unwilling to share the part numbers. The advice was to call a local shop to explain the problem and ask for the numbers that way. This scenario bothered me quite a bit because the 1st shop should have either provided the #s along with the estimate (my fault for not asking then) but putting that effort onto another shop just seemed wrong.
Long story short I called a dealer I've purchased from a few times before and got the following info for handling the right side (some of the numbers may be different for the left):
I called the shop that completed the diagnoses, provided the estimate etc but they were unable/unwilling to share the part numbers. The advice was to call a local shop to explain the problem and ask for the numbers that way. This scenario bothered me quite a bit because the 1st shop should have either provided the #s along with the estimate (my fault for not asking then) but putting that effort onto another shop just seemed wrong.
Long story short I called a dealer I've purchased from a few times before and got the following info for handling the right side (some of the numbers may be different for the left):
| oil seal (rear axle shaft outer) | 90313-62001 |
| rear axle shaft bearing right | 90369-48001 |
| oil seal | 90310-58002 |
| snap ring | 90520-44038 |
| conical washer | 90208-48002 |
| rear axle bearing inner retainer (2 diff?) | 42423-60030 & 42423-60040 |
| o ring | 90301-85004 |
| parking brake shoe | 46540-60050 |
| brake shoe inner | 46550-60060 |
| skid control rotor | 4317-60020 |
| rotors (gear oil is on mine) | 42431-60281 |
| pads (might as well) | 04466-60070 |
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What caused your axle play? I have the same issue.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
I can't recall. Sorry.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
I rewatched my video (linked above) and there's two things. One is that you can pick that deal out carefully. And then once you put it all together in the axle assembly it sort of goes away.