Rear Auto Door Locks Failing

[Nico T]

I have a 97 FZJ and the second row auto doors locks are not locking or unlocking all the way. I don't have a fob so just use the lock/unlock button. The front locks lock and unlock fine but the rears have become inconsistent. They do move when I push the button but more than half the time now they don't actuate completely, either locking or unlocking.

I recently had body work done on the left front including the front driver's door. I don't know if they removed the door or not but this began occurring shortly after I got the truck back. I can't imagine it is related but thought I would mention it.

I know each lock has its own actuator, and since both rear are failing, it would be weird for both to fail at the same time. I believe my battery is fine but thought perhaps if it were worn it might not be enough voltage to unlock all the doors.

Anyone have experience with this issue?

Thanks!

 

[ppc]

I have a 97 FZJ and the second row auto doors locks are not locking or unlocking all the way. I don't have a fob so just use the lock/unlock button. The front locks lock and unlock fine but the rears have become inconsistent. They do move when I push the button but more than half the time now they don't actuate completely, either locking or unlocking.

I recently had body work done on the left front including the front driver's door. I don't know if they removed the door or not but this began occurring shortly after I got the truck back. I can't imagine it is related but thought I would mention it.

I know each lock has its own actuator, and since both rear are failing, it would be weird for both to fail at the same time. I believe my battery is fine but thought perhaps if it were worn it might not be enough voltage to unlock all the doors.

Anyone have experience with this issue?

Thanks!

This is a common failure point. Search "lock motors" as there are a number of posts addressing this.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Just to reiterate, there are a number good write ups. The motors are available off amazon as a 4 or 5 pack.
Use some coarse sandpaper when prepping the new motor shafts and get the lay lines longitudinal with the shafts. Scrubb the inside of the gears well too.

RTH... Door lock actuator motor

forum.ih8mud.com

Door Lock Motors, additional info

I'm changing my door lock motors and want to expand upon this thread. RTH... Door lock actuator motor I'm using the same motors, bought them as a 4 pack off amazon. They do not have solderable connectors they are friction fit connectors. When you unsolder the wires off the old motors you are...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ERG80]

DIY vid:

 

[inkpot]

I had to replace both of my rear door lock actuators within a year of each other. Not very hard to do. Bought mine from Rock Auto.

 

[FirstToy]

When you open it up, check that this part is not cracked- my motor was fine, it was this lever arm that cracked.

Door lock motor failure-confirmed

Just pulled the failed door lock motor! PITA! And it’s the same as the rock auto lock I just bought! Did someone already replace these motors with ASINs and they already failed? Does anyone have a photo of the OEM part to compare? The motor you're holding in your pics is an OEM motor...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Nico T]

Just to reiterate, there are a number good write ups. The motors are available off amazon as a 4 or 5 pack.
Use some coarse sandpaper when prepping the new motor shafts and get the lay lines longitudinal with the shafts. Scrubb the inside of the gears well too.

RTH... Door lock actuator motor

forum.ih8mud.com

Door Lock Motors, additional info

I'm changing my door lock motors and want to expand upon this thread. RTH... Door lock actuator motor I'm using the same motors, bought them as a 4 pack off amazon. They do not have solderable connectors they are friction fit connectors. When you unsolder the wires off the old motors you are...

forum.ih8mud.com

I had to replace both of my rear door lock actuators within a year of each other. Not very hard to do. Bought mine from Rock Auto.

The motors were my first guess but I thought it weird that they both started failing at the same time, like same day. It just seems too coincidental. I thought perhaps if the voltage was too low, they might not actuate the whole way every time. I'll order a couple and see. Thanks.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

They age out. All four of mine quit over a week.

 

[Outsane]

I sell the motors if you need

 

[COYS]

Just be thankful the rear actuators are even available new. Fronts are gonzo.

 

[Nico T]

Just be thankful the rear actuators are even available new. Fronts are gonzo.

I found the fronts on Specter Offroad but they are about $450 each. Cruiserparts has them used for L $160 and R $120.

Thanks

 

[COYS]

I found the fronts on Specter Offroad but they are about $450 each. Cruiserparts has them used for L $160 and R $120.

Thanks

I guarantee they’re not OEM unless they have NOS.

Cruiser parts can eat a…

 

[Nico T]

I guarantee they’re not OEM unless they have NOS.

Cruiser parts can eat a…

Yeah, I've posted about Cruiser Parts before and I'm more inclined to feed them their own I do have had excellent experiences with Specter. and they list by part number. At that price, it wouldn't surprise me if they were OEM but doesn't matter, not going to pay it. Thanks

 

[COYS]

It's a whole diff ball of wax for a vendor to list a part and actually have it to ship. There's a chasm between letter of intent and a signed contract.

The factory LHD (if that matters) front door lock actuators have been NLA for years.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Did this on the street on our daughter's 97 today - both rear doors. All the guides fail to mention what should be very carefully spelled out. Releasing the actuator rod from the door handle is a scary and dangerous prospect. So if you are doing this and can order the plastic clips that connect the rod and door handle - do that before you start. I spent 15 minutes opening the door and total disassembly. But I spent over an hour on the first one getting this clip to release without breaking it. It's a necked down metal tip with a plastic over wrap that will NOT pull back through the handle in the plastic door handle. Break either the handle, or the plastic clip and it's game over. You are now driving around with a completely disabled door and of course no point in reinstalling the interior until you get the part. I don't know if it's even available.

On to the other rear door. Snap! That clip broke immediately while trying to work it out. Luckily, I am a champion at fixing stuff like this and fashioned a washer out of milk jug plastic that held it securely - you just pop it over the bulbous tip using a long screwdriver through the hole in the rear edge of the door. This does the same function as the plastic clip - just keeps the rod from separating from the door handle. Then I made a second washer (again, center hole too small for the tip and you have to use the screwdriver to stretch/force it on) just for double security. I also had to hack away the milky plastic guard over the top of the lock assembly (probably there for any drips) to get good access to force the new plastic washers on.

Since it's a 7 hour drive to get here, I had to square things away with what I had on hand. Poor taste to break things while I'm here and then leave (!).

So there's a hack for anyone else who breaks the clip, and a suggestion that nobody ever should consider their "guide" to replacing the rear lock motors complete without addressing this serious deal breaker. No idea if they're available, but I would not attempt this without buying new clips in advance.