Rear ARB Bumper With Swing Outs Install Thread (1 Viewer)

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Feb 9, 2013
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Location
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So there are a few of here that have installed or are going to install the ARB rear bumper with swing outs. Rather than clog up the other threads with our questions we can post up pics, installs and questions. Please post up pics of your installs or tips for installs

I'll start with mine. I got some rear bumper damage while in Moab. Nothing major till my trailer broke a hub and put a hole in the bumper. Thanks to my insurance I had enough to buy the bumper.
I purchased from 4wheelonline.com with free shipping.
http://4wheelonline.com/ARB_Toyota_Rear_Bumpers.210106.0
Later that day I got a call that the bumper was on back order and would be 3-6 weeks out. They asked if I wanted to wait or a refund. I said Ill wait since I wanted it anyway. A week later I get a call from R&L shipping that my freight was ready for delivery. This was a very pleasant surprise. When I got home my told me that the driver said a box was missing and that the carrier company would call me. Once I opened up everything I found it was the RH cover for the bumper since I was only getting a LH tire carrier. Either way it is still going to get installed. It was like Christmas opening it up

Opened tire carrier
20150613_134719.jpg


Bumper as it was packaged
20150613_135113.jpg


The fun hardware in a bag
20150615_183640.jpg


Organized hardware

20150615_184730.jpg

I started bolting the lights to the bumper and tire carrier, but have to wait till Saturday to remove the plastic bumper and really start the install. I will be sure to take as many pics along the way.
 
Please take detailed pics and notes! Thanks!
 
My hat is off to someone willing to detail every corrected step on this thing! For years I ran a detailed tech blog for MV Agustas and it is time consuming to do a good job even for simple things: For example, http://mvfaq.blogspot.mx/2005/08/yellow-box-install-for-speedometer.html


I will watch for Q&A to help. We should perhaps schedule a 'Garage Day' alongside the Ouray event at 'someone's' shop!

My suggestions:

- USA Trucks I'd suggest not using their wiring harness and building your own. Use the tow receptacle or pigtail under the truck. If you do use their wiring don't bother taking apart interior panels or running anything to driver's side/LEFT fender space because the USA harness does not have the plug ARB want to use. You'll have to splice into a tail light if you choose to not use the tow wiring and the passenger side tail light is easily accessible via a grommet that will allow routing straight down to the bumper lighting


lXEvNrLf7KDwJDycN00ZiUAuM68Wa2MirSDJoFMKKg=w1433-h811-no



- Prepare for the swing out hinge bushing and washer clearances to be too tight with their hardware. We used GR8 fender washers of varying thicknesses. We used Silkolene RG2 race grease for lubrication

bg_LyKmtkQZa6KnSohNqdIIg0WO1L4QKJr-XA_ygRg=w459-h810-no


- We used two M12 GR8 Carriage bolts with appropriate washers and locknuts instead of the (4) short bolts onto cage nuts affixed to banjo washers it wanted inserted into the bumper space. This was to affix the ARB bumper to the frame. I don't understand why they want (4) bolts instead of (2) and also did not trust a tensioned cage nut over GR8 washers and lock nuts for such a crucial mounting point

UiL9_ni5lXaYzvb99Jfhzj5HQK5vyYENe9CXW7jPTQ=w459-h810-no


Wm9ixtMBxN5dOs_jueXTOxoDR5q1igYtxnVhBVAM5Q=w459-h810-no


- ARB supply a bracket in a loose Z shape to mount a sensor package up above the spare tire location under the truck. The original bracket for these sensors interferes with the ARB once mounted. We could not use their supplied Z bracket in any orientation and instead affixed these sensors to a cross member

- We had to tap a number of holes that were either incorrectly prepared for powder coat or whose threads were otherwise damaged during production

t_tctIl9id3jvan3d1Oa0_XsGU5aWLBHjufXtfR1bQ=w459-h810-no



- Save your back. Work with an assistant for alignment. Belgians seem to inherently understand ARB logic

TOsAyEvhT_R5AO1t-x8JHG2walB-qv04Y2_egUEQlQ=w459-h810-no
 
Yup, forgot about that.

I too had to tap the holes that attach the wings to the main bumper. They looked to be M6 and filled with powder coat. I tapped them to M8 (because they tell you to use the supplied M8 bolts).
 
I'm somewhat amazed that ARB has done such a crappy job with this product! What gives, anyway?
 
It really is great once installed!!

We install EVERYTHING we possibly can ourselves but I'd pay someone experienced if I knew then what I know now ;) I think it would also go pretty easily with help from someone who has done it before.
 
It sure is a nice looking bumper!

I like the pic of the dog helping with the install!
 
My hat is off to someone willing to detail every corrected step on this thing! For years I ran a detailed tech blog for MV Agustas and it is time consuming to do a good job even for simple things: For example, http://mvfaq.blogspot.mx/2005/08/yellow-box-install-for-speedometer.html


I will watch for Q&A to help. We should perhaps schedule a 'Garage Day' alongside the Ouray event at 'someone's' shop!

My suggestions:

- USA Trucks I'd suggest not using their wiring harness and building your own. Use the tow receptacle or pigtail under the truck. If you do use their wiring don't bother taking apart interior panels or running anything to driver's side/LEFT fender space because the USA harness does not have the plug ARB want to use. You'll have to splice into a tail light if you choose to not use the tow wiring and the passenger side tail light is easily accessible via a grommet that will allow routing straight down to the bumper lighting


lXEvNrLf7KDwJDycN00ZiUAuM68Wa2MirSDJoFMKKg=w1433-h811-no



- Prepare for the swing out hinge bushing and washer clearances to be too tight with their hardware. We used GR8 fender washers of varying thicknesses. We used Silkolene RG2 race grease for lubrication

bg_LyKmtkQZa6KnSohNqdIIg0WO1L4QKJr-XA_ygRg=w459-h810-no


- We used two M12 GR8 Carriage bolts with appropriate washers and locknuts instead of the (4) short bolts onto cage nuts affixed to banjo washers it wanted inserted into the bumper space. This was to affix the ARB bumper to the frame. I don't understand why they want (4) bolts instead of (2) and also did not trust a tensioned cage nut over GR8 washers and lock nuts for such a crucial mounting point

UiL9_ni5lXaYzvb99Jfhzj5HQK5vyYENe9CXW7jPTQ=w459-h810-no

Wm9ixtMBxN5dOs_jueXTOxoDR5q1igYtxnVhBVAM5Q=w459-h810-no

- ARB supply a bracket in a loose Z shape to mount a sensor package up above the spare tire location under the truck. The original bracket for these sensors interferes with the ARB once mounted. We could not use their supplied Z bracket in any orientation and instead affixed these sensors to a cross member

- We had to tap a number of holes that were either incorrectly prepared for powder coat or whose threads were otherwise damaged during production

t_tctIl9id3jvan3d1Oa0_XsGU5aWLBHjufXtfR1bQ=w459-h810-no



- Save your back. Work with an assistant for alignment. Belgians seem to inherently understand ARB logic

TOsAyEvhT_R5AO1t-x8JHG2walB-qv04Y2_egUEQlQ=w459-h810-no


For the side pieces you had to tap what do you use for the bolt since there are no threads for the bottom? The directions really SUCK and are more for a 100 series
 
I tapped all the way through the holes. Is that what you are asking?

As to the latch mechanism you were asking me about on FB: I would suggest tapping those 4 holes as well, as mine were hit pretty hard with the powder coat. I would also suggest putting 4 flat washers on the back side of the latch before you tighten it down (this will bring the latch slightly forward toward the catch. And on that note, I did have to use the 2 supplied catch plates to get the latch to properly function and still keep the swing out at the correct position.
 
The bottom bolt here where it is just a hole. What bolt goes there? I am going to stop after work today and get a tap set and the trailer plug with the side harnesses for the lights. Still going to install tomorrow, but without the RH cover panel. I was looking at the tire carrier and was fitting my RW wheel. I know you said you had to cut the 2" off, but what if the 2" square was ground down just enough for the wheel to fit or even finely file away some from the rim

t_tctIl9id3jvan3d1Oa0_XsGU5aWLBHjufXtfR1bQ=w459-h810-no
 
I had to use a file to open up the main hinge bolt too. I used a belt sander on the hinge bushing to get enough material for the hinge to fit.

The bottom wing hole used an M8 bolt (I think) with a nut on the back (that hole is not threaded)

I could have gotten away with doing less than 2". I just wanted it gone, so that's why I cut 2". If you wanted to take a bit more time, you could fine tune the cut.
 
I did cut-fit for the body panels.

For the hinge bolt, I used a belt sander on the bushings to get a tight fit.
 
Double Tap
 
Who did you order yours from? I still need to get a pair (I had originally thought the bumper came with them).
 
Slee sent me mine. I notched them out and mounted them horizontally as I wanted to make sure I protected the Icon piggybacks that are mounted along the frame.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1434807766.685640.jpg
 

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