Real Time Help: Replacing 2F Oil Pan and Gasket

[2mbb]

I looking for advice how to get all the bolts in when installing oil pan and gasket. The long story is below. I attempted today but didn't make it to the end, so I'm going to start over in the next few days. The short version is that I could get bolts in on one side, but not the other. Once I got one bolt in one side, on the other side there was a gap between the pan and block that was wider than the length of my bolts. I think it must be something to do with getting the gasket to seat or compress especially in the front and rear arches that seal to the bearing caps.

Does anyone have any advice or tricks they use? I do have some longer bolts I can use to snug the pan up to the block. Or I can try and first seat the gasket to the block, then put the pan on.

My oil pan on my 1985 FJ60 was leaking out the drain plug for a long time. I tried to clean off the sealing surface, but the leak just go worse. There are three bumps (rivits) that are popping through and the sealing area isn't flat. So, I bought the new oil pan, 1 piece gasket, related drain plug and sealing washer. I also got a set of 22 stainless oil pan bolts from Overland Metric. Removal of the oil pan was pretty straight forward. I had the gasket replaced by a Land Cruiser mechanic in 2002. There was very old gasket to scrape of the block. I followed this post by OGBeno for the installation starting this afternoon. I also got some Fel-Pro Snap Ups. My Land Cruiser is sitting in the garage, I'm on my back, and I'm struggling to get both the gasket and pan snaped into the Snap Ups and the gasket is getting disturbed, so I take the gasket the pan, put it onto the Snap Ups, then snap on the oil pan. At this point I can get bolt in along onside, but I can't get the other side to come close enough to catch thread. I'm pushing the oil pan on, but there is still a gap wider than the gasket between the pan and the block.

My old oil pan had one of the baffles "modified" and I did the same for the new one, assuming that this was a clearance issue with the oil pump. I did a test fit a couple days ago, but I was worried that I didn't really check to confirm the pan was sitting flush all around the block. So I took everything apart, test fit the pan again (without gasket) and the pan does sit flush. I wiped and scraped all the FIPG off the oil pan, gasket and block, and now I am getting ready to try again...

Thanks. mbb.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

I've had pretty good luck with snap ups but haven't used them on a 2f yet. Maybe a few longer bolts to temporarily use to help with alignment.

 

[Pighead]

Have you seen this thread? Start at post #6...

Thread 'F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions'

May 14, 2024

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it.
I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak.

First step is to remove the oil pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove all the bolts but one towards one of the ends at the front. Next, use a putty knife, or a very thin chisel, and working forward from the back of the engine, taking care now to gouge the engine block itself.
Then remove the remaining gasket and any...

• orangefj45
• Replies: 52
• Forum: 60-Series Wagons

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[bhsdriller]

I recently did it by myself, was tricky getting it up since it's long but definitely didn't have any fitment issues.

You have to start bolts on opposite sides since you put all one one side in it didn't let the pan sit flush it was probably cocked to one side.

 

[2mbb]

I recently did it by myself, was tricky getting it up since it's long but definitely didn't have any fitment issues.

You have to start bolts on opposite sides since you put all one one side in it didn't let the pan sit flush it was probably cocked to one side.

After I got one bolt in on one side, I tried getting one in on the other but couldn't. The pan was clearly cocked to one side. Thanks.

 

[2mbb]

Have you seen this thread? Start at post #6...

Thread 'F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions'

May 14, 2024

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it.
I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak.

First step is to remove the oil pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove all the bolts but one towards one of the ends at the front. Next, use a putty knife, or a very thin chisel, and working forward from the back of the engine, taking care now to gouge the engine block itself.
Then remove the remaining gasket and any...

• orangefj45
• Replies: 52
• Forum: 60-Series Wagons

• 
• 

Thanks for this. I don't think I read this earlier. mbb.

 

[Spike Strip]

 

[KLF]

When I do this, I start by threading in 4 M8 studs, one on each side of the block face. Lift the pan up, thread on some M8 nuts onto the studs finger tight so the pan stays perfectly aligned, then put in the rest of the bolts. Once they are in, remove the studs, install the remaining bolts, then torque to spec.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I just use zip ties, two on each side strung fairly loose. Get a bolt started towards the middle of one side, then tighten the opposite side zip ties and stick a bolt in ove there. Once you have 4-6 bolts in, cut the zip ties and pull them out.

 

[2mbb]

Thanks for the great suggestions, guys. I did a dry fit this afternoon using both FelPro Snap Ups and the studs that are shown in Georg's thread linked above and also mentioned by KLF. I put the snap ups at each corner and this help me get the gasket into the channel on the main bearings and keep it there. I put 4 studs in the 3rd hole from each end. Once the gasket and pan were on, I used some nuts on the studs to snug the pan close enough to block to get my old Toyota bolts to catch. I tightened the 4 bolts on the studs to about hand tight with a finger ratchet. The pan was not yet compressing the gasket, but at least I could get the bolts in.

My next question would be is about the gasket itself. I started out with a new 1 piece, but yesterday when I had the failed installation attempt I had put some FIPG on the pan and block and of course some of this got on the gasket. I scraped the FIPG off before it fully cured, so the surface is flat, but there is a residue. Would it be OK to use this gasket or should I get a new one?

It turns out, for me, the Overland Metric pan bolts were effectively too short to get started. The bolts are 20mm long (same as the Toyota ones) but they are a SEMS style (captured washers) with both a split lock washer and a flat washer (Toyota bolt only has one washer and I think it is flat). I suppose I could have tightened the bolts on the studs more but I think I'll get some new Toyota bolts instead.

Thanks for your help.

 

[klinetime574]

I don’t see any issue using a gasket that has residue… it will have FIPG on it again, right? Maybe share a pic of where it is.

I did my oil pan not too long ago. Also on my back in the garage. I think I tied the gasket in place with string or used zip ties like @CruiserTrash . I didn’t really have any issues. I just took forever to snug the pan up. Small increments at a time. Didn’t want to ugga dugga and split the gasket. It’s been fine.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I don’t see any issue using a gasket that has residue… it will have FIPG on it again, right? Maybe share a pic of where it is.

I did my oil pan not too long ago. Also on my back in the garage. I think I tied the gasket in place with string or used zip ties like @CruiserTrash . I didn’t really have any issues. I just took forever to snug the pan up. Small increments at a time. Didn’t want to ugga dugga and split the gasket. It’s been fine.

And many rounds of checking torque after the pan is installed and driving for a bit. I'm still doing that a year later after my engine build.

 

[2mbb]

Success! Thanks for everyone's help. I got the new pan and gasket on and so far no leaks. I was living with a leaking drain plug for years so it's nice to finally have my garage floor dry, at least under the oil pan!

I ended up using both the FelPro snap ups and some alignment threaded studs. I put the snap ups in the corners. This would get the one piece gasket tight enough to the engine that I could make sure the gasket was in the channels on the main bearing caps. I put the studs in the 3rd hole from each corner. I used flat washers and nuts on the studs under the pan flange to snug the pan up to the block close enough to get my oil pan bolts started. I ended up using Toyota bolts I purchased online and picked up at my local dealer.

The bolts I requested are 90080-11675, and I got two of these, and also received 20 with the part number 91611-B0816. This is a number that Amayama shows is the replaced for the original discontinued bolt (91615-40820), but 91611-B0816 was not found in the Toyota USA parts ordering website.

On to the next thing!

 

[Spike Strip]

My oil pan drain plug leaks too - I have to use a fiber washer with a smear of gray RTV and let it cure overnight before filling, otherwise it drips. PO over-tightened so kind of crimped the threads....

 

[2mbb]

Unfortunately for me, my leak got worse by my trying to make it better. The leak started during my ownership, and besides having a reputable mechanic replace the pan gasket 20 years ago, I was the only one that ever changed to oil. I don't think I was over tightening, but I never used a torque wrench on it. And I suppose once it started leaking, I would snug it a little bit more to make it stop. With the new set up, I'll use a torque wrench...