Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!?

divemedic

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Why not reman the cross member? I’ve always looked it that piece and wondered if it can be made better. If it causes interference why not reconstruct it?
 

SNLC

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Why not reman the cross member? I’ve always looked it that piece and wondered if it can be made better. If it causes interference why not reconstruct it?
Absolutely is an option and not a bad one at all.

However, it would be comparable dollar wise for my client and rather than spend time on that I picked custom radius arms because it is less work. There are plenty of other things I can be doing while I wait for radius arms and the axle to be prepared.

I am far along on the fab and prep now so once I have the new radius arms and axle all back from blasting and machining I can start in on welding.

Looks like a sway bar from a 1999-07 71/76/78/79 will be perfect. So I need to order the bar, the mounts and links I have.


Also, I am 90% sure I am running 80 series parts from the knuckle out, with free wheeling hubs.

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SNLC

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Oh ya, I will see if I can do a cost breakdown when I am done.

I am thinking about offering this conversion as an in-house kit. Flat rate basically for the conversion.


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divemedic

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Are you fabricating the sway bars because you anticipate a significant increase in body roll compared to the leafs? I ask for two reasons, my truck doesn’t have them and I’ve noticed/been told that I have much more articulation/compliance off road compared to other 70’s. Body roll on road is about the same as my 100 even when fully packed out.

It may be worth seeing the truck’s on road mannerism before spending time on sway bars? Would properly tuned shocks be enough to control body roll during undulating turns?
 

SNLC

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Are you fabricating the sway bars because you anticipate a significant increase in body roll compared to the leafs? I ask for two reasons, my truck doesn’t have them and I’ve noticed/been told that I have much more articulation/compliance off road compared to other 70’s. Body roll on road is about the same as my 100 even when fully packed out.

It may be worth seeing the truck’s on road mannerism before spending time on sway bars? Would properly tuned shocks be enough to control body roll during undulating turns?

Here is the difference,

You are on leaf springs.


This truck had no sway bar on leaves either, drove fine.

I ran my 80-series with and without. The only time it was worth it without was doing slow technical off-roading, like rock crawling. In fact when I rolled that truck in the sand dunes, no sway bar in it.

That’s not why I am doing it though. Every build is different and everyone uses their truck different. This guy won’t be doing serious off-roading in this truck. If he wants the sway bar out he can remove it. See building other people’s trucks you have to not only take into consideration their uses but also your liability.


Cheers
 

divemedic

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Love it. I’m mostly asking for my own benifit. I’m taking a lot of notes from your work. I appreciate you taking time to answer the “whys”.
 
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Are you fabricating the sway bars because you anticipate a significant increase in body roll compared to the leafs? I ask for two reasons, my truck doesn’t have them and I’ve noticed/been told that I have much more articulation/compliance off road compared to other 70’s. Body roll on road is about the same as my 100 even when fully packed out.

It may be worth seeing the truck’s on road mannerism before spending time on sway bars? Would properly tuned shocks be enough to control body roll during undulating turns?
The tire design has a lot to do with vehicle body roll.
On the 1998 Jeep Cherokee I had; when I went from BFG AT KO's to GY Wrangler MTRs (Kevlar sidewalls) the body roll on the highway changed dramatically. I was able to drive without the front sway bar as long as I wasn't going faster that 70 mph.
 

SNLC

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Housing is back from the blaster, knuckle balls are at the machinist.

AC692F6C-FC84-45F1-B0A4-D46ABF4836B8.jpeg

6AC8C7B2-3DA8-4B10-B738-32D897136CC0.jpeg


Time for me to cut the knuckle balls off this housing.


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Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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How are you working out the knuckle ball orientation with the custom Delta arms? Will the castor correction be part of the cut and turn or the control arms?
 

SNLC

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How are you working out the knuckle ball orientation with the custom Delta arms? Will the castor correction be part of the cut and turn or the control arms?

I am buying 4* arms. With 80 style steering you can only get 2-3* from a c&t but since I am setting everything up it is kind of irrelevant. What I am shooting for is 4(ish)* of caster and 2* on the pinion.

The frame is completely prepared now so it is a waiting game now for the radius arms and knuckle balls.

0001C1CD-68A2-443A-BC98-B34A8BF92DC3.jpeg


Cheers
 

SNLC

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So I already have 80 knuckles. I think I will get them powder coated while I am waiting. I will be using the 79-series steering arms I bought with these knuckles.

8EF20EE2-0BA1-415E-83BB-DB2B482481D9.jpeg


I have some 80-series spindles laying around to use.

11830F26-6AC7-48E7-BBDD-51FF0A0AA32E.jpeg



I found new OEM 80-series hubs loaded with wheel bearings and wheel studs for a screaming deal. So just the axle shafts to work out.

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SNLC

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Light bar purchased. Going with a Ridged SR-Series 10" driving-diffused in black. The owner does not want a big bro-brah light bar. The bumper will have spots built into it so we really don't need a big bar. This bar will throw a wide pattern while the spots set into the bumper will offer long distance. That is all we are doing for front lights, besides of course the already installed Trucklights.

light bar.JPG



I am having this reproduced locally. It is NLA from Toyota and with the new glove box door I want a new sticker.

tcase sticker.jpg




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SNLC

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As mentioned previously in the thread, the owner wants to tow his pop-top camper trailer with the truck occasionally. Yes we all know this truck will not tow it that great but it will do it. He doesn't plan to do long distance with (HWY speeds) the trailer and this truck, short trips out of town kind of a thing.

So I have got to prep the truck for towing, his trailer is roughly 2,000lbs, I am shooting for 3,000lbs safely. Rather than try and find a receiver, which by the way this frame is not prep'ed for it at all meaning no holes, nuts, ect in the frame to mount a receiver, I am fabricating the mount. Looks like way to much work to build a reciever from scratch (or even modify an 80-series I have) to fit the truck and be mounted securely. So, I will use the rear crossmember just like Toyota did but I am buffing it up big time. In addition I am wiring a brake controller up and a plug at the back of the truck.

I am ready to install the fuel tank but I want the room to do my fab work for the tow hitch before I install the new tank.


Cheers
 
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