Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!?

Discussion in '70-Series Tech' started by RMP&O, Jul 14, 2017.

  1. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Lights, power ports, and more!

    I have already gone over a lot of this in the thread but here comes where we are at now and where it is all going. Something to keep in mind here and for this build, I treat every build different and don't do cookie cutter type stuff, so. The owner is a professional photographer, he goes out into the bush for days on end to do his work. He will use this truck for this, along with an HDJ81 I am building for him. As such, the build(s) keep his specific uses in mind as I work through them and work with him on how to set up the trucks. So here we go.....


    Power ports, I am using Blue Sea throughout the build. All USB ports are a double port fast charge, all cig lighter ports are a twist and lock style. I did consider running a fuse panel to the back of the truck, at this time I am not doing that. Although right now I am working out LED lights and may opt for an aux fuse panel before this is all said and done.

    We want power ports to be hot 24/7, I could not find a hot 24/7 circuit in this truck besides at the clock. Odd as I suspected the cig lighter to be 24/7 but it was not. Better anyways to not use an existing circuit but I had hoped to pull from the factory fuse block, there just is not a hot 24/7 circuit in the fuse panel on this truck to use. As such, I decided to run two hot wires from the battery rather than tapping into an existing circuit as obviously keyed hot won't work for what we want and the clock hot 24/7 is not going to work either. For the USB ports I ran a 14g wire rated at 17amps, for the cig lighter ports I ran a 10g wire rated at 22amps. The USB ports will have a 15amp inline fuse and the cig ports will have a 20amp, both at the battery. Grounds will be at location of power ports. This is way more than enough for the amp draw the ports will see, even with the Engel.

    A square style USB port is mounted next to the heater controls, a;ready pictured. One round style mounted in the custom made console. One round style mounted on either side of the Front Runner drawers, the drawers come with power panels with knocks outs ready to go, sweet I say!

    Cig lighter twist and lock ports; two in the console, one next to the USB port and one at the back of the console, rear seat/floor location. The owner may toss his Engel fridge behind the front seats, so port at the back of console for this. I honestly think when his Engel is in the truck he will just mount it on top of the drawers and plug into the back power ports. No fridge slide or drop down discussed or planned at this time for the fridge. I think he uses his fridge more like a cooler, moving it around but just needing a power source to run it. I am also installing a new OEM cig lighter in the stock location for power uses as well.

    I picked up some National Luna cig lighter plug LEDs on clips for various camp light duties. These are yellow lens to keep bugs down, plug into any cig lighter port and have 15ft of cord so will reach any where needed around the truck. I have used these before and they work well and are nice.

    For LED lights on the truck, as mentioned I went with Trucklight 7" LED's for headlights. I will be installing LEDs at the top back of the roof rack that come on with the reverse light switch. These will also likely be on a switch at the drawers for camp lights.

    A custom front bumper is back on the build plan. It will incorporate some LED's, out boarded in the bumper. I am pushing for fog style that also double as driving lights. These come on with either running lights or low beams, on a separate switch or not.

    Next up is an LED light bar, I am going for a small bar. No bro-brah 40" crap on this truck! I am shooting for 10"ish to be mounted front cent of the roof rack, wired up to come on with high beams or just on a switch or both.

    Next I am suggesting we do some "deer/game" lights. I lived in Wyoming for 22yrs, I built and drove Cruisers there. In the Rocky Mountains and high plains we got game to worry about at night. Owner of this truck lives in Montana, he encounters game regularly at night driving his trucks. So, some LED spot lights outside front corner of roof rack is what I am suggesting. These cover 0-90* field of vision in their light pattern so that you decrease the chances of not spotting game from the side at night. Game lights would be on a dash mounted switch only.

    All LED's I am using are Ridged Industries.

    Cheers
     
  2. divemedic

    divemedic

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    Finally caught up. Excited to see this build up!
     
  3. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Me too!

    Especially since we (my friend and myself) just got a lot done yesterday for the coming shop. Power is ran, big huge air compressor just about ready to fire up, plasma torch now has a 90amp plug, belt sander is set up and more.

    We got a 30x45 shop going up soon but before that we have set up a shipping container. Shop is going right next to the container.

    I am getting tired of my temp shop so ready for this!

    :)

    Cheers
     
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  4. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    These are sweet.

    5B2428B7-BD69-4DFC-811C-CE4FB81FE477.jpeg
    5F8829F5-5621-43FE-8273-66688FC0BB5C.jpeg
    C993FFF7-2156-45EF-A0AA-B0AF97E3E215.jpeg
    5FBC9F0B-944E-4238-85F5-87FCDBDAEBC4.jpeg
    25514E3C-8BB2-4D0F-B346-582D4FC086CA.jpeg

    Cheers
     
  5. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Replaced the original wiper link.

    49AF067D-E655-44D6-8014-7A9C86AD568E.jpeg
    3187FDC4-26F2-4F41-9CF5-DC28B6D563D2.jpeg

    Replaced the wiper motor as well. No pic at the moment.

    Cheers
     
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  6. ALEXY

    ALEXY

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    The old part has a plastic bush inside to keep the axle centered. The one in the picture seems shot, probably its metal rubbing on metal by now.
    the other one looks still centered, its worth opening it and checking if the bush is still ok, then its a good spare. On my truck it was only those plastic bushes to wear out, on the whole linkage.
    I loved how Toyota thought to put a bracket on the wiper link to ease the install of the wiper engine.
     
  7. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    New wiper motor pic...

    34BAA6A1-0C3F-4DDA-85A5-BAFA975DCFC9.jpeg

    I have already refurbished the air cleaner but I was not able to find the caps felt seal. So I used x3 felt seals from the dust collector cap and glued them in.

    19EEE1F0-B667-4F79-B9EE-741C6EDFCA17.jpeg


    Pre filter assembly going in. Had to buy a new cap for the primary filter to get the right configuration for the hose in-out. That’s in route to me.

    C4B92865-1FD9-42DD-9004-16B50EAEFBBD.jpeg

    Cheers
     
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  8. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Flashlube catch can going here-ish.

    C5FCC50C-3658-4702-9FD0-20D0B4253811.jpeg

    I had the local paint supply shop mix me up some touch up paint for the body on the truck. Almost a perfect match, stoked!

    3EA750D0-EAF7-44C9-8728-BE14AA0B8E7C.jpeg


    Cheers
     
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  9. divemedic

    divemedic

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    I just got my catch can from Cruiser Brothers. Please post details on your mounting. I’m thing about installing nutserts in a similar location.
     
  10. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Harvested 80-series parts, off to the sandblaster-powder coating shop.

    F50812CB-3EAE-4180-88B8-41449CA87C89.jpeg

    Cheers
     
  11. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    What do ya know....

    643EA608-F9A3-4D11-9137-22D3F887D929.jpeg

    Marlin Crawler 60-series high steer arm on this 1990+ high pinion 70-series.

    ;)

    Cheers
     
  12. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Uh-oh, where is the tie rod going to go!?

    B41A6C15-4C9E-4CFD-A5E5-8393001ED331.jpeg

    ;)

    Cheers
     
  13. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Other side....

    9C577DB6-75B3-4A2D-AF7D-F6A452514BDE.jpeg

    Cheers
     
  14. divemedic

    divemedic

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    How much clearance between the spring and tire will you end up with?

    Out of curiosity, why not use 80 axels?
     
  15. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    The same as on a coil sprung 70-series, perhaps even the same as an 80. The coil bucket on the 70 trucks axle side is mounted all the way out. The edge of the coil bucket actually sits slightly farther outboard from where the knuckle ball is welded to the axle tube at the factory.

    So zero issues with scrub.

    Much wider than the 70 axle, especially this older leaf sprung axle. I don't want to deal with a super wide axle and then it won't match the back width wise and I would have to swap an 80 back there too. A whole lot of work and would look somewhat unstockish to say the least.


    Main issues I am seeing with this conversion are; steering. Panhard to tie rod if kept crossover steering. And the frame side radius arm brackets want to land a bit on top of the trans crossmember.

    Cheers
     
  16. divemedic

    divemedic

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    Good the hear about scrub.

    So I’d appreciate your opinion on my tentative plan.

    So my thought is this. 80 axels under my 77 with factory FJC steel wheels to reduce wheel poke. Add factory over fenders to cover the exposed tire. My math says it will sit flush and my imagination says it will be factory looking (baring the fact I’m entertaining running parabolics for a 07+ 75 in the back with a cool conversion up front).

    Important caveat, I went to public school in Georgia so math isn’t my strong-suit.
     
  17. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    I don't know how much those wheels have for B/S. That is obviously important but you can only go so far before you hit the tie rods.

    axle.JPG


    Nearly 8" wider for an 80-series axle. That is 4" per side. Terminology here is WMS or wheel mounting surface for widths. Flares get ya what, 2" or 2.5"?

    So yes, it is very doable but will the tires stick out or be just right? I don't have all the measurements.

    You can order up a 1999-2007 70-series front axle housing from Toyota at about $800. It will be the right width, same as our trucks but be all set up for the coil suspension saving you this effort and time I am doing. I explored this option.

    Tomorrow I am going to see if 80-series steering arms will bolt on my 70 knuckles. If so, that is by far the easiest solution to my tie rod-panhard clearance issues. And I haven't even set it up to know there are issues there. I converted an 80-series I had to crossover steering and the panhard is an issue if you do nothing to it.


    Cheers
     
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  18. TonyP

    TonyP GOLD Star

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    divemedic and RMP&O like this.
  19. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    @TonyP don't buy those yet for sure.

    I have spoken to Dave about doing some thing to make factory flares work and cover 80-axles under a 70 body. ;)

    Cheers
     
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  20. RMP&O

    RMP&O OCD Supporting Vendor

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    Alrighty....

    I wanted to place the frame side coil bucket before doing anything else. I can't proceed much farther at this point and need to tear the axle out now anyhow. Time to strip out the 3rd member and cut off the leaf spring brackets. As soon as I get the radius arms back from the powder coater I can finish layout and set up. I will admit, I didn't spend a ton of time planning this conversion, I simply picked 70-series parts over 80-series to help with packaging. I knew there would be a few hurdles to overcome and I felt I knew where to expect those. No surprises yet. If 80-series steering arms bolt on my knuckles, done deal and steering is sorted. If not I will look at 1999+ 70-series arms or completely dumping the factory panhard and going custom for that. I would love to keep it crossover steering (I am a fan of this style) but for the uses of this truck and what I am trying to achieve here, no need to get anal and try to re-engineer to much.

    So I have a new OEM fuel tank in route to me. This is from a 71-series and not the LJ 71-series. Pretty sure it is bolt in and same size as what came out of the truck. Only difference being the filler neck on the tank is bolt on vs part of the tank. Everything is in route to me, we will see how it plays out. I already have the sending unit and pickup assembly for my tank and am (again) fairly sure these will work in the 71 tank.

    Coolant is drained from the engine. Exhaust manifold is out and so is the #1 exhaust pipe. I was very happy no studs busted off in the head. I am ready to knock out the heater freeze plug on top of the bottom water outlet and install the new heater pipe. I am waiting to do the other side because a lot is coming off the engine on that side and I need the room to knock out the freeze plug and install the heater port. 1PZ rubber heater lines from the firewall to the block are NLA (as far as I can find) so I just went ahead and bought 1HZ ones on a chance they would fit. Testing fitting reveals these will work just fine.

    Cheers
     
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