Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!? (2 Viewers)

SNLC

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You are not installing AC as well while you have it all apart? What was wrong with original gauge cluster?


The truck already has A/C, I rebuilt that earlier this year using an FJ60 compressor.

Oil pressure gauge has been giving me dramas.

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SNLC

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That's the instrument cluster that I have been looking for to install in my 1993 PZJ75.
I presently only have the speedo and fuel gauge cluster.
Do you know what the part number is for that instrument cluster ?


I don’t know the part number but all the LX trim trucks came with a full gauge cluster.

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That's the instrument cluster that I have been looking for to install in my 1993 PZJ75.
I presently only have the speedo and fuel gauge cluster.
Do you know what the part number is for that instrument cluster ?

Hello,

From the parts catalog:

83110-60470 SPEEDOMETER ASSEMBLY, KM, W(LEAD SWITCH & TACHOMETER)
83242-60180 TACHOMETER ASSY, ENGINE
83246-90K03 GAUGE, OIL PRESSURE RECEIVER
83243-90K03 GAUGE SUB-ASSY, FUEL RECEIVER

Hope this helps.





Juan
 
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Hello,

From the parts catalog:

83110-60470 SPEEDOMETER ASSEMBLY, KM, W(LEAD SWITCH & TACHOMETER)
83242-60180 TACHOMETER ASSY, ENGINE
83246-90K03 GAUGE, OIL PRESSURE RECEIVER
83243-90K03 GAUGE SUB-ASSY, FUEL RECEIVER

Hope this helps.





Juan

Thank you for the part numbers; once I locate a gauge cluster they will allow me to replace the individual meters.
 

SNLC

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I took the factory sound deadening off yesterday. After using dry ice I am using acetone to get the remaining tar off. From my experience prep is everything when painting, POR15 going down so I want it prepped right.


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SNLC

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I found rust....

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SNLC

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I fixed the rust.

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I also found and fixed a bad seat mount.

None of this is restoration quality repairs, it is not meant to be. Just fix the rust, seal it up and install the Dynamat.

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SNLC

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I usually talk to my clients at least once a week when I am working on their trucks, unless of course there is no reason to chat about the project.

Well, today was one of those days. Additions added; new exhaust system and muffler. Heater-A/C blower motor and door lock-catches were added.

I already bought new front door hinges, they have a little play in them. Not bad but it is there. So with the lock-catch addition the doors will be fully rebuilt on top of what I have already done to them.

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Dynamat showed up today.

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I have been dealing with another clients FJ40 all day but that is done and the rest of today and tonight is for the PZJ70.

This is also for a different project, an HDJ81, it is just such a beautiful piece of Toyota goodness I figured I would share!

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SNLC

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Tons and tons of cleaning and prep but all four doors are coated with POR15. I am very happy with the results. And yes I am only coatings the bottom 1/3 of the doors.

sealer1.jpg


I ran out of the POR15 sealer so had to grab another tube. All I need to do is seal what is left to seal, bit more prep and I am ready to POR15 the rest of the truck.

sealer.jpg



I have all the rear sliding window stuff now and just about all the rest of the parts I need to finish this job. So on to more prep, sealing, painting and re-assembly.


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SNLC

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First coat down....

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Sealing the pinch weld for the sliding windows and dealing with a very small amount of surface rust in the jam-recess.

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SNLC

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How long do you let the first coat sit before applying the second. Really nice work.


Thanks!

It just depends. Temperature, humidity or if I added an accelerator to it or not. I just follow the directions as best I can, so, a slight finger drag. To me that is not sticky and just barely tacky.

You get the best finish and if exposed to sunlight should use POR15 Topcoat. Same thing applies with it, apply when you have a sight finger drag. I am not using a top coat on these interior panels, just don't need it.

With any product like POR15, from my experience, the more you prep and the better your prep the better your results. I started by cleaning with Simple Green. I then cleaned again with POR15 Degreaser. I then hand scuffed and sanded. After this cleaned with acetone and then scuffed again. After all that I used POR15 metal prep and washed it down like you are supposed to and the let it dry three days or so moving a fan around on it 24/7. No water/moisture left on any surfaced or in any nook/cranny is as important as clean-prep.

I have also used Rust Bullet a lot. A similar product to POR15. I have found both of these products you can get very good results but it takes a lot of prep, patience and of course following the directions to the T. Anytime I either skip on the prep or skip a step I get bad results.

More than anything it just takes dedication to get all the nooks and crannies clean and then getting the POR15 down in all those tight areas too. Hard work is done now though, the floor will be easy after this.

Cheers
 

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