Pulled the trigger on a H150 box for my HzJ76 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gengis
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- Thread starter
- #22
OK Tap, so the yard stick on this and other sites, is that the H151 has a 4 : 1 first gear and a 32mm 14 spline input shaft.
Well, Uncle Toy never said so, and here in my own workshop sits a box with a 32mm 14 spline shaft, which, in 1st gear takes 4.5 turns of the input shaft to get one turn of the output shaft. (assuming a 1:1 transfercase ratio.)
I was suprised because the donor was definately a FZ engine, BUT, it was a work truck ( Mine truck),
,
They also say H151 300mm clutch, H150 275mm clutch, also wrong, and right at the same time. This baby has a 275mm clutch with the same pressure plate the HZ. The old HZj80 has a h150 with a 300 mm clutch, so happy days. So, if Toyota was happy to mix and match then it's good enough for me.
@ Locked. I hope you are right about the FIPG. It would be great if the box was "unopened" so to speak. which again begs the question, do I just clean her up and wack it in, or take the caseings off and reseal???? ho humm. thinking....
G
Well, Uncle Toy never said so, and here in my own workshop sits a box with a 32mm 14 spline shaft, which, in 1st gear takes 4.5 turns of the input shaft to get one turn of the output shaft. (assuming a 1:1 transfercase ratio.)
I was suprised because the donor was definately a FZ engine, BUT, it was a work truck ( Mine truck),
They also say H151 300mm clutch, H150 275mm clutch, also wrong, and right at the same time. This baby has a 275mm clutch with the same pressure plate the HZ. The old HZj80 has a h150 with a 300 mm clutch, so happy days. So, if Toyota was happy to mix and match then it's good enough for me.
@ Locked. I hope you are right about the FIPG. It would be great if the box was "unopened" so to speak. which again begs the question, do I just clean her up and wack it in, or take the caseings off and reseal???? ho humm. thinking....
G
That sealant looks factory or at least Toyota brand FIPG. If it is anything like an R box it is really easy to pop open and check everything. I believe the only gaskets are in the transfer case, the transmission should all be FIPG.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thank you
Just got word from the wreckers that the truck had 230K on the clock, so I will at least take off the transfer case and the gearbox caseings and have a good look, clean and re seal.
Just got word from the wreckers that the truck had 230K on the clock, so I will at least take off the transfer case and the gearbox caseings and have a good look, clean and re seal.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
so this it's a 14 coarse spline input tranny with 275mm clutch .?
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes, it is , but if you study all the Toy splines and available clutch plates, you can mix and match about anything anyway, if you need to.
Ok, so I took the covers off and all looks OK inside, no bits and pieces , a little expected goo on the higher parts which dont get a nice oil wash, and it must have stood for a while in a corosive enviroment beacause there is a wee bit of rust but noting on any of the working surfaces. I'm going to call it good, replace oil seals and reassemble, but I'll check the oil pump filter mesh first.
By the way, did Uncle Toy put this horrible black gunk on the outer caseing, or the PO, trying to mitigate the corrosive enviroment.
No, its not oil, some pitch type goo. Anyway I'll scape it off and send the casings in for a good old clean.
G
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I actually did that, having an H150 21 fine splines with 300mm clutch on my 80 ..
Keen to see how this turns out.
- Thread starter
- #29
Help, which restrict pin is left and which is right.
One is much more difficult to depress, but, no indication as to which is left or right.
Perhaps someone with a functioning gearbox could put it in neutral and give it a feel, so to speak. In other words, is it more restrictive to push the lever towards 1/2 or towards 5/R?
One is much more difficult to depress, but, no indication as to which is left or right.
Perhaps someone with a functioning gearbox could put it in neutral and give it a feel, so to speak. In other words, is it more restrictive to push the lever towards 1/2 or towards 5/R?
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I can check tomorrow, if that helps. I’m guessing this is for the H box? Do they have the same part number? It seems like they should be the same (they are on an R-series transmission, for what it’s worth)
- Thread starter
- #31
Sorry, i was not that clear. It's the H150 box, and they are different part numbers. One takes almost double the pressure to depress..
Yes, just sat my bum down in my 76 with a R151 and it seems the same on both sides.
I'm guessing that on the H150, the stronger spring will be on the 5/R side, so on the left of the gearbox, but I would like to know for sure, cos they gonna be little bastards to swap once the box is installed.
G
Yes, just sat my bum down in my 76 with a R151 and it seems the same on both sides.
I'm guessing that on the H150, the stronger spring will be on the 5/R side, so on the left of the gearbox, but I would like to know for sure, cos they gonna be little bastards to swap once the box is installed.
G
I just checked my H152F box and its much harder to push to the right, as your sitting in the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #34
Off to Southern Mozambique in a weeks’ time, Theo, so I was not going to take the chance of running into problems before. Most of the ducks are, however in a row, and just the clutch bits (later today) and rear crank seal (while I’m in there) to purchase and hopefully just a weekend’s work in early January.
I will look like a right DickHead if the R151 packs up on the trip, but, besides a slight oil migration from Gbox to Tbox all seems well.
Enjoy the December holidays and thanks for the interest.
G
I will look like a right DickHead if the R151 packs up on the trip, but, besides a slight oil migration from Gbox to Tbox all seems well.
Enjoy the December holidays and thanks for the interest.
G
- Thread starter
- #36
And there it is, a 275 clutch plate with a 14 spline 32mm boss from Toyota, looking a little lost in the HZ/HD bell housing.
There are 2 loose fitting "shocks" inside 2 of the springs. Looks like they should be there so, I'll go with it.
To be clamped under a cover by Exedy. A brand that I am happy with and because I was not going to bend over to pay for the Toyota one, which would have been Aisin anyway.
Happy now, Theo??
![rofl[1].gif](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='28' height='23' viewBox%3D'0 0 28 23'%2F%3E "rofl[1].gif")
There are 2 loose fitting "shocks" inside 2 of the springs. Looks like they should be there so, I'll go with it.
To be clamped under a cover by Exedy. A brand that I am happy with and because I was not going to bend over to pay for the Toyota one, which would have been Aisin anyway.
Happy now, Theo??
- Thread starter
- #38
So, the big day today. I pulled the old R151 and got ready for the H150 install. I had to check on a few things that i was not too sure of .
First was the bell housing which is a HD/150 unit but not the same part numbers as the recomended HZ80. But it all looks good.
Then all all the clutch goodies.
Just love the snap on alignment tool.
Then lot of boreing measurements to make sure that the input shaft would locate the spigot bearing and not crash into the crank shaft. ( Its about 6mm longer than the R151 and the respective bell housings are the same width. Turns out that it just makes it, until you factor in the 2.5mm of the metal spacer, and then you are golden.
The gear lever on the H151 sits further forward and some hacking of the body is necessary. I guess you may be able to buy a V8 cover and drill out the old spot welds weld or rivit it in, but thats a lot of work, and in my case, time consuming, so I will hack and patch.
Lucky I got the rubbers and frame which works as a good template.
First was the bell housing which is a HD/150 unit but not the same part numbers as the recomended HZ80. But it all looks good.
Then all all the clutch goodies.
Just love the snap on alignment tool.
Then lot of boreing measurements to make sure that the input shaft would locate the spigot bearing and not crash into the crank shaft. ( Its about 6mm longer than the R151 and the respective bell housings are the same width. Turns out that it just makes it, until you factor in the 2.5mm of the metal spacer, and then you are golden.
The gear lever on the H151 sits further forward and some hacking of the body is necessary. I guess you may be able to buy a V8 cover and drill out the old spot welds weld or rivit it in, but thats a lot of work, and in my case, time consuming, so I will hack and patch.
Lucky I got the rubbers and frame which works as a good template.
red silicon sealant , it has been opened .
I made the same switch on my 78 .
the most important difference are :
much slower gearbox to operate , compared with R151 .
the final gear ratio are different , so you will need to change the pinion and crown on the differentials , in oder to run at proper motor rev.
the H150 , has shorter ratio output .
but a very strong gearbox .
the other thing , is that it takes at least 10-20 km to warm up the oil in the case .
till then the gear change is stiff .
good choice
Renago
I made the same switch on my 78 .
the most important difference are :
much slower gearbox to operate , compared with R151 .
the final gear ratio are different , so you will need to change the pinion and crown on the differentials , in oder to run at proper motor rev.
the H150 , has shorter ratio output .
but a very strong gearbox .
the other thing , is that it takes at least 10-20 km to warm up the oil in the case .
till then the gear change is stiff .
good choice
Renago
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok, so the clutch and clutch actuation next. Forks are the same , between FZ and HZ but the bearing must tbe the slightly longer one. the difference here is about the same as the bell housing width difference, so it makes sense.
