I did my 60 without a cut and turn but I also have an gm 5.7 and 4l60e which lengthened the driveshaft 3 inches. To be honest I'm not even close to binding and my spring over was about a 7 inch gain with spring over and aal. I have a high travel cv driveshaft but even with the 7 inches of lift and 35s the drive shaft will hit the floor without binding when its unbolted. I even added a degree and a half of castor. My pinion angles are 5 degrees off and I had no vibes at 60mph. I was going to add a second cv but after driving down the high way at 60 with no vibes I really don't see the need. I don't really know to many guys that drive that fast in 4wd anyway but I wanted to be able to take it up in the snow and screw around in the dunes when I take my bikes out. To me I honestly don't care about getting my pinion pointed 5 degrees higher and farther "out of the rocks" as thats the only advantage I could make out of cutting and turning. Plus the 4l60e pan has to be modifie, one of the bolts as well as a small part of the tranny inside to safely fit the cv driveshaft so I needed all the extra help I could get angle wise.
Project Spring Over in the cold...
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- #22
kurtis, i read your thread, good stuff.
ill do the cnt if i need to in the spring.
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here are more pics of after i grinded down the diff perch and stretched the ubolts.
now im having problem with the front side bolt on the perch hitting the diff plate...
pic:
NO|T|HING IS SET YET:
the easy side looking good
ill do the cnt if i need to in the spring.
+===++=+=+========================
here are more pics of after i grinded down the diff perch and stretched the ubolts.
now im having problem with the front side bolt on the perch hitting the diff plate...
pic:
NO|T|HING IS SET YET:
the easy side looking good
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- #23
quick update,
i havent been working much on this project, my excuse is the weather.
but my problem is that i dont have an extension cord for the welder and that im not actually doing the welding myself.
i ordered gears, and diff and axle rebuild kits kits today, and for some reason a locker and snorkel...
here are a couple pics...
i will have to get a custom front driveshaft made for extreme andgles since the ds binds on full droop
full weight of the truck on the axle(yellow stands arent touching.)
burr
i havent been working much on this project, my excuse is the weather.
but my problem is that i dont have an extension cord for the welder and that im not actually doing the welding myself.
i ordered gears, and diff and axle rebuild kits kits today, and for some reason a locker and snorkel...
here are a couple pics...
i will have to get a custom front driveshaft made for extreme andgles since the ds binds on full droop
full weight of the truck on the axle(yellow stands arent touching.)
burr
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- #25
well with full truck supported and axles and springs hanging i feel a bind on the stock ds.
i can run the stock drive shaft as long as i dont go crazy offroading. it is winter atm and i dont see myself doing any crazy flex which will give me some time to get something rigged up for the spring.
as well i was thiking about get a track bar bracket for the rear axle so i can rig something as well in the spring.
I need to figure something out for a trak bar as well. I put my add a leafs back in and it pretty much remedeed the problem for now. The stock springs were way to soft for the v8s accelleration. The rear end would squat every time I punched it. With your springs I'd guess you would be alright as well.
Does that have a cv up front? Thats crazy how good the pinion angle looks without messing with it. I'll have to take a couple new pictures one of these days. Its pretty high now with the aals and the 2"body lift. It will just barely clear my garage door by 1/8 of an inch. I would imagine yours is going to be similar height with the ome lift.
Does that have a cv up front? Thats crazy how good the pinion angle looks without messing with it. I'll have to take a couple new pictures one of these days. Its pretty high now with the aals and the 2"body lift. It will just barely clear my garage door by 1/8 of an inch. I would imagine yours is going to be similar height with the ome lift.
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- #27
my pinion angle might look good but its the transfer flange angle that not so great. it is fine for not maximum articulation/ level driving. i will take a pic next itme im under there.
my drive shaft is a stock fj62 one it dont know what you call it. it is a 2 ujoint drive shaft
my brother will be welding the front perches on sometime this week (hopefully
)
my drive shaft is a stock fj62 one it dont know what you call it. it is a 2 ujoint drive shaft
my brother will be welding the front perches on sometime this week (hopefully
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- #29
thats exactly what i was thinking, i also have spare driveshafts with flanges if need be.
i do understand that it might weaken the drive shaft assembly by grinding the flange down, *use at your own risk*
wow!! you defintely have some motivation to do that in the cold
Those are some dirty hubs in the picture at the end of post number seventeen. How did you get so much grit or mud in there?
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- #32
the wheel bearing were shot, and it let crap in through between the rotor and spindle and just filled up. i did a lot of off roading this summer and fall so i not too suprised.
it took hours to clean the hubs up, but a good learning experience
The first time I took my hubs apart completely it took me a good two hours to figure out how they worked and how to reasemble them. Now that I have done it I feel confident that I could do it in the dark on a trail somewhere should I ever need to.
FWIW...I used the stock 62 DS when I did my SOA and IIRC, I did feel a little bind. I clearanced around the u joint and I NEVER had any issues with it. Consider this (cuz i was a bit sketched too...) youll "ALMOST" never run into a situation where the front axle will be un supported. One tire or the other will be on the ground unless your jumping the rig. I suspect THAT is the scenario youre running into while DOING the SOA, BOTH tires off the ground, fully drooped?
Try it out. Either that, cruiser parts sell DC shafts for like 200 bucks....Just another option. May have to get the shaft re sized though...
Chicago
Try it out. Either that, cruiser parts sell DC shafts for like 200 bucks....Just another option. May have to get the shaft re sized though...
Chicago
BTW...Im bummed to hear that the Ruff stuff perch isnt working out so well....
Do you think that you could have trimmed the top edge of it vs the center?
Ill be doing this on my 40 soon and I too got the kit!
Seems that IF the cut away on that perch plate FITS the housing, you could have rotated the housing to the desired position, scribed a line on the perch plate at the angle you wanted from the TOP?
Like I said...Im not there yet, but it is on my mind...
Chicago
Do you think that you could have trimmed the top edge of it vs the center?
Ill be doing this on my 40 soon and I too got the kit!
Seems that IF the cut away on that perch plate FITS the housing, you could have rotated the housing to the desired position, scribed a line on the perch plate at the angle you wanted from the TOP?
Like I said...Im not there yet, but it is on my mind...
Chicago
Awesome that you're doing this in your driveway in the cold. I'll be there in February, yay. Great job, brother! Your rig looks sweet.
its 25* here with sun mild wind and no snow or ice and i still wont go out there to pull my driveshaft... to damn cold and im able to find other things to do that dont include laying on the cold ground.
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- #38
im not 100% im following you, but the cut-away part you are refering to required major grinding, i set the pinion angle by eye, witht the full weight of the truck on the axle, pointing straight at the tcase, then i tacked the perches. and removed axle to prep for the cnt.
ill try to post some pics in the next couple days of how the perch sits.
thanks dude, its turning out to be a mild winter around where i am, but around chrismas for 3 weeks it was damn cold and i did ntbother working on the truck
not much laying around, but sometimes just standing there gives the chills.
update this week: tacked perches, mid re-gear of front diff, and axle rebuild kit in my hands. i also cleaned all the rest of the parts i need for the knucles, ill post pics soon
The spring perch problem is not a new problem for Ruff Stuff. I had the same problem and worked with them to make some changes to the design. The front hole on both the perch and plate need to be moved forward to account for the turning of the housing since there are a lot of variations in suspension setups and drive train. Weak-link had the same problems. He eventually made a new design for me but it appears you got some of the older design stuff.
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- #40
if youve gone this far, you should know how to make things work, thats what we did.
here the progress report:
cut and turn:
i ended not grinding the factory weld at the end of the housing and used a 2-4inch pipe cutting wrench tool. the cut was 30mm from the edge of the housing. leaving only 5-7mm at the inner knuck tube. both knuckles popped off the housing which kinda worried me, but they were back in smooth and straight. we tacked 4 spots and welded the cut shut. 3 extra bead were then burned on for re-enforment. the knuckles were dialed back 1/4inch.
next the perches were welded, then re-enforced with 2 beads each. then a marlin gusset for each under side. then the ruff stuff shock mounts and finaly the steer stops. took us this weekend. thank you Scotty for welding!!
simon:
scotty:
this pic is for tofudabeest
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