How far in from the factory weld did you cut?
Came out GREAT!
Came out GREAT!
Project Spring Over in the cold...
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- #42
i did not measure the distance from the weld, i measure from the edge of the kuckle housing.
hope these pics can explain how i measured
note: the knuckle in the second pic wasnt the same one i used
congrats simon hope we can wheel again this year ! maybe a little more now that all of us know our way to each others stomping grounds . contemplating a SOA but think i will do the tray back to my bj60 first . beat wishes .
mike ,moose
mike ,moose
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haulin a welder in a wagon pricless
you didnt weld the brace to the ball???? wil it do any good like that
Looking good Simon, can't wait to see it all done and out on the trail.
Dave
Dave
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- #47
haulin a welder in a wagon pricless
you didnt weld the brace to the ball???? wil it do any good like that
the brace/gusset ended having too much of a gap between the ball. the gusset is more re-enforcements for the cnt part.
and that wagon was a great help lugging the tools around, and when i left i shouted out 'im leaving and taking all my toys!'
i was happy with his welds and he tripled up each weld. he said he wasnt happy with the asthetics but were 110% confident with the finished product streght wise.
i can see a little bit of little at the end of the tunnel now, i cant wait!
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- #48
lil update, i worked put in a few more hours today.
diff was rebuilt at a shop with 5:29s, the diff housing NEEDED a shaving, and i took a little off the axle housing to be safe
quad pass welds
diff was rebuilt at a shop with 5:29s, the diff housing NEEDED a shaving, and i took a little off the axle housing to be safe
quad pass welds
ehh it would be slightly lower than stock with 37's, it would be equivalent to running 33's and 4.56's, i did it and it was tollerable, maybe not desirable but tolerable
Im planning on 5.29's in fiona, but im also already on 38.5's with plans for 40" LTB's once i get some other things taken care of. then sometime id like to add a 4.7 toybox on top of it all, and whenever i drop in the 350 it will get a new tranny. either a SM420, SM465 (muncie) or a NV4500 (if money allows i want the NV4500, the 5th gear would help me to keep her streetable) but who knows, plans change for unexpected reasons.
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- #51
well you made me think of this now...
i plan on running 35in tires to start, this will be the smallest size tire that will ever go on truck.
as more my choice for 5:29s. i have auto gear box with 2h motor
is that with 4:11s / 29in tire @ 100km/h was 2100rpm
and current 4:11s /32in tire @ 100km/h was 2200rpm and it was pretty slow acceleration
my guess for 5:29 /35in tire @ 100 km/h is going to be ~2500 rpm if i can accelerate to that speed.
4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart
Tire Change (find new gear ratio)
New tire diameter / old tire diameter X old diff ratio = new diff ratio
35 / 29 X 4.11 = 4.96
or in landcruiser speak 5.29 will give more power
and decrease fuel economy 
top speed ????
my truck shifts into overdrive from 3rd around 1700 rpms @ 70km/p, it drops to 1500 for 4th.
so im hoping with th 5:29s its going to give a little better acceleration in overdrive.
it should be killer for offroading as well. i will report my findings when if i ever finish this soa and get driving again.
i have no idea if the 5:29 will drasticly reduce my top speed. i drive around 90km/p on average on highway and am never in a rush.
maybe next project is gonna have to be a turbo
i plan on running 35in tires to start, this will be the smallest size tire that will ever go on truck.
as more my choice for 5:29s. i have auto gear box with 2h motor
is that with 4:11s / 29in tire @ 100km/h was 2100rpm
and current 4:11s /32in tire @ 100km/h was 2200rpm and it was pretty slow acceleration
my guess for 5:29 /35in tire @ 100 km/h is going to be ~2500 rpm if i can accelerate to that speed.
4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart
Tire Change (find new gear ratio)
New tire diameter / old tire diameter X old diff ratio = new diff ratio
35 / 29 X 4.11 = 4.96
or in landcruiser speak 5.29 will give more power
and decrease fuel economy top speed ????
my truck shifts into overdrive from 3rd around 1700 rpms @ 70km/p, it drops to 1500 for 4th.
so im hoping with th 5:29s its going to give a little better acceleration in overdrive.
it should be killer for offroading as well. i will report my findings when if i ever finish this soa and get driving again.
i have no idea if the 5:29 will drasticly reduce my top speed. i drive around 90km/p on average on highway and am never in a rush.
maybe next project is gonna have to be a turbo
Last edited:
i didnt realize it was an auto i guess.
the auto you can go to a lower gear set for example.
with the manual 35's and 4.56 was dead on gps to spedo in my truck
my buddies FJ62 35's and 4.88 is correct.
so that said 37's and 5.29's should be equal to stock. also remember part of the reason being is the FJ60 came with 3.70's and the FJ62 came with 4.11's either way you will be good. it will be pretty low with the 35's but should be drivable, it will raise RPM and you will be going slower than you show by about 5mph or so would be my guess.
clear as mud? or make sense?
the auto you can go to a lower gear set for example.
with the manual 35's and 4.56 was dead on gps to spedo in my truck
my buddies FJ62 35's and 4.88 is correct.
so that said 37's and 5.29's should be equal to stock. also remember part of the reason being is the FJ60 came with 3.70's and the FJ62 came with 4.11's either way you will be good. it will be pretty low with the 35's but should be drivable, it will raise RPM and you will be going slower than you show by about 5mph or so would be my guess.
clear as mud? or make sense?
I had similiar problems with my Ruff Stuff parts. The kit was supposed to have the bolt holes moved further apart but the parts I recieved were built like to old style. I ground lots of metal off the small piece that fits on the hump of the diff. Once the fit was kind of close I welded it to the L shaped piece and continued to grind until it was a better fit. Then I welded the bolts in and had to grind on the bolt heads to make it fit better then weld in place and call it good.
Here is a picture of the end product.
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- #54
makes sence to me, thanks for your input!
cool, your axle housing looks mighty clean, those ruff stuff parts on the pumking side needed lots of grinding.
cool, your axle housing looks mighty clean, those ruff stuff parts on the pumking side needed lots of grinding.
I just got back on this forum after a long time and have been scoping your build. You're doing a really good job!!! I did the same conversion about three years ago and I still love it. I even did the Ruff Stuff perches like you did. That passenger side perch is totally a bear to get it right. Lots of grinding and fitting, but I got it right eventually. The only thing that I did different was I used A grinder with a cutting wheel to grind a groove around the end of the axle to do the cut and turn. Your build looks good though, Props to you for doing it in the cold!!
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- #56
note to self: do not drop hub body on the floor landing on the studs.
just got to make some brake lines before i can call this axle rebuilt
just got to make some brake lines before i can call this axle rebuilt
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- #57
front axle back in
rear pinion set, i didnt take measurements, just eyeballed it so that the pinion was pointing a little below the tcase
mock up with 32s
i got my buddy to weld up rear perches and shock tabs last weekend and another buddy went and picked up my 35's from up north
got the read diff rebuilt at a shop with 5.29's, major grinding needed to fit the pinion shaft in.
i painted the housing a couple days ago and started putting in a lock-right in the rear last nite, but i was having a hard time and it was getting cold and dark out side so i put everything away
today, i picked up a buddy(alan/syco) we took apart the lock right and re-installed it. the only pain i had was putting the pinion shaft back in, it needed to hit it in with a rubber mallet. the tight fir agaisnt the crown teeth didnt help either. anyways, after we sealed up the diff housing with rtv and bolted the rear axle in place, and re-install the brakes. next we torqued the front ubolts and slapped on some 35's. first time it sits on all fours this winter
~12in between center of tire and fender well in the rear
~10in between center of tire and fender well in front
front pinion angle
rear pinion angle
rear pinion set, i didnt take measurements, just eyeballed it so that the pinion was pointing a little below the tcase
mock up with 32s
i got my buddy to weld up rear perches and shock tabs last weekend and another buddy went and picked up my 35's from up north
got the read diff rebuilt at a shop with 5.29's, major grinding needed to fit the pinion shaft in.
i painted the housing a couple days ago and started putting in a lock-right in the rear last nite, but i was having a hard time and it was getting cold and dark out side so i put everything away
today, i picked up a buddy(alan/syco) we took apart the lock right and re-installed it. the only pain i had was putting the pinion shaft back in, it needed to hit it in with a rubber mallet. the tight fir agaisnt the crown teeth didnt help either. anyways, after we sealed up the diff housing with rtv and bolted the rear axle in place, and re-install the brakes. next we torqued the front ubolts and slapped on some 35's. first time it sits on all fours this winter
~12in between center of tire and fender well in the rear
~10in between center of tire and fender well in front
front pinion angle
rear pinion angle
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- #58
oh yeah, cant drive her yet
i have to finish setup and allign of the steering rack
and cut brake lines
and buy shock towers $
and might need a new caliper $$
and get some shocks $$$
and im super broke and only worjing 1 day a week
i have to finish setup and allign of the steering rack
and cut brake lines
and buy shock towers $
and might need a new caliper $$
and get some shocks $$$
and im super broke and only worjing 1 day a week
