Yea...I was referring to the motor mount and frame.
Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,362
Or get Borgeson Ujoints and collapsible shaft and eliminate all that crap making it be so low.
Ordered.
- Thread starter
- #1,363
Super excited to get my new joints and Double D collapsible steering rod in on Friday before the holiday so I could button this project up.
That is until I opened the tube and the opposite was open and the rods had fallen out
F me. That’s a killer for timeline. Oh well I’ve got plenty to do.
The lower joint is 30 spline for the Saginaw to 3/4” DD shaft. The joint is tiny compared to the Spicer yoke that makes you cut such a whopper sized hole on the inner frame. This one clears so much nicer
Upper joint is 3/4” smooth that welds to the OE steering shaft and then used Allen heads to secure to the 1” DD rod.
The 3/4” rod in the bottom telescopes through the 1” rod at the top. They come in 36” sections and will be cut to fit with room to slide on and off with the bottom and top joints in fixed position.
That is until I opened the tube and the opposite was open and the rods had fallen out
F me. That’s a killer for timeline. Oh well I’ve got plenty to do.
The lower joint is 30 spline for the Saginaw to 3/4” DD shaft. The joint is tiny compared to the Spicer yoke that makes you cut such a whopper sized hole on the inner frame. This one clears so much nicer
Upper joint is 3/4” smooth that welds to the OE steering shaft and then used Allen heads to secure to the 1” DD rod.
The 3/4” rod in the bottom telescopes through the 1” rod at the top. They come in 36” sections and will be cut to fit with room to slide on and off with the bottom and top joints in fixed position.
- Thread starter
- #1,365
Since I can’t do power steering I’ll move to the Lizard Skin. I want to keep the mottled green tranny hump so I have to pull it out to get under it to coat it. That means pulling the entire interior out.
I’ll be coating the upper side of all of this. Anything that is still green will stay green. Anything already black is getting the Lizard.
Time to clean
I’ll be coating the upper side of all of this. Anything that is still green will stay green. Anything already black is getting the Lizard.
Time to clean
- Thread starter
- #1,366
Underside of the hump and tool box cover
This will cure overnight and I’ll reinstall the interior tomorrow.
2 gallons covered under the tub completely, firewalls, both sides and this part of the inside of the tub.
Added it to the rear fender area. This will cut down on all the gravel-hitting-the-fenders noise
- Thread starter
- #1,368
I got driven back into the shop after trying some yard work after finished the interior and it was just too hot.
I am back on the Power Steering.
Final mock up and grinding. Hopefully @under_psi can burn it on Tuesday
You need to put your bolts into the plate for final mock up. The inner part of the front hanger needs to be clearanced. I used carbide die grinder and flap disc
Flapped the areas to be welded.
Another view of the place to grind
Kit comes with bulk rod to cut down to make a spacer for the box from the plate. I’m assuming the boxes must be all different cast otherwise they would just send the proper spacers. Again. Porta band. Here are the bolts you need too.
I had an old steering rod here like the ones UPS lost. I was able to mock it up and get
The final clearances down on the motor mount. As JT suggested I smashed it with a flap disc.
A small round motor mount would have been easier.
I am back on the Power Steering.
Final mock up and grinding. Hopefully @under_psi can burn it on Tuesday
You need to put your bolts into the plate for final mock up. The inner part of the front hanger needs to be clearanced. I used carbide die grinder and flap disc
Flapped the areas to be welded.
Another view of the place to grind
Kit comes with bulk rod to cut down to make a spacer for the box from the plate. I’m assuming the boxes must be all different cast otherwise they would just send the proper spacers. Again. Porta band. Here are the bolts you need too.
I had an old steering rod here like the ones UPS lost. I was able to mock it up and get
The final clearances down on the motor mount. As JT suggested I smashed it with a flap disc.
A small round motor mount would have been easier.
- Thread starter
- #1,371
Double D shafts came in.
Upper. Drill hole in one side and run a rod through it and then a set screw.
Lower 3/4” tube clears nicely now that the shaft is mounted to the higher joint.
Upper. Drill hole in one side and run a rod through it and then a set screw.
Lower 3/4” tube clears nicely now that the shaft is mounted to the higher joint.
- Thread starter
- #1,372
Lou burned in the Saginaw plate, the steering shaft itself and my exhaust. Huge help. He hates my welder though. He’s making me upgrade.
I’m waiting on a callback from @cruiseroutfit to get the proper pitman arm and drag link
When those come in I should be finished with this here project.
I’m waiting on a callback from @cruiseroutfit to get the proper pitman arm and drag link
When those come in I should be finished with this here project.
- Thread starter
- #1,373
Got word they are out of the short drag links and the Pitman arm I need. Supposedly they arrive at Cruiser Outfitters Wednesday.
In the mean time I’ll just put it all together and that will be the last step.
My power steering hose is wrong. I’m just going to go get one made at Napa. I’ve tried to buy two off the World Wide Web and failed.
The radiator and shroud are way easier to pre-install on the radiator support and stick on the truck as one piece.
All good. Idle is just a bit too high. No vacuum leaks. I hate to touch my Jim C carb .....
In the mean time I’ll just put it all together and that will be the last step.
My power steering hose is wrong. I’m just going to go get one made at Napa. I’ve tried to buy two off the World Wide Web and failed.
The radiator and shroud are way easier to pre-install on the radiator support and stick on the truck as one piece.
All good. Idle is just a bit too high. No vacuum leaks. I hate to touch my Jim C carb .....
- Thread starter
- #1,374
Napa told me they can make hydraulic line but not a power steering line.
F it. I called PSC and got the -AN6 stuff to make my own.
Drag link and Pitman arm shipped today.
I’ve got it all back together and the belt and pulley on. I’m close.
F it. I called PSC and got the -AN6 stuff to make my own.
Drag link and Pitman arm shipped today.
I’ve got it all back together and the belt and pulley on. I’m close.
- Thread starter
- #1,375
Don’t let anyone tell you Saginaw is quick and easy. I could do it in 1/2 the time next time but overall it’s a lot of work.
I got the Warren Wench reinstalled. Those things either get heavier or I’m getting older.
I really love the clean look of the FJ60 power steering pump.
-an hoses will be here Monday as will the Pitman arm and drag link materials.
I got the Warren Wench reinstalled. Those things either get heavier or I’m getting older.
I really love the clean look of the FJ60 power steering pump.
-an hoses will be here Monday as will the Pitman arm and drag link materials.
Yep. That 60 pump looks just right in there.
- Thread starter
- #1,378
Stoked to have my parts arrive today. Red is out of town and a night in the shop was on the books.
Well. The 2” drop Pitman arm I ordered is not right.
Lots of tech here I can go into but the bottom line is, this won’t work best.
The idea is to have the drag link and the tie rod parallel
If I get a flat Pitman arm it will be better
PSC sells one that is drill-able to 7”. That is the correct size to match the steering arm on the knuckle to get optimal steering
Well. The 2” drop Pitman arm I ordered is not right.
Lots of tech here I can go into but the bottom line is, this won’t work best.
The idea is to have the drag link and the tie rod parallel
If I get a flat Pitman arm it will be better
PSC sells one that is drill-able to 7”. That is the correct size to match the steering arm on the knuckle to get optimal steering
Is the one you have too much of a drop?
Still looks closer to parallel than a barely lifted 80.
- Thread starter
- #1,380
It’s not close to parallel. It would work, but why not get the right part from the get-go?
Also it should be 7” hole to hole to match the knuckle center to tie rod hole
Also it should be 7” hole to hole to match the knuckle center to tie rod hole