Build Project 2027: 1977 FJ40 Rebuild

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Okay, it’s been awhile since I had the t-case apart and I’m questioning my memory. I’m trying to remember the correct orientation of the bushing and gear from the transmission shaft. Which is it? Also, I think the bushing goes on behind, correct? I knew it had been awhile and I was hoping some detailed instructions would come with the case, and I’m not sure I’m seeing it correctly in the FSM. I definitely want to make sure I have it right before I fight trying to slide the case on and put the bushing and gear in.

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After a handful of setbacks I managed to get all the correct parts for the Orion. First off putting a 125lb t-case on without first removing the transmission is virtually impossible without damaging the input shaft seal. :bang: Had a work trip out to Napa, CA so I went and visited @orangefj45 who set me up with a new seal. Georg also let me in on a little trade secret. If you have a couple spare long t-case bolts, cut the heads off, thread them into the tranny and use them as a guide to make sure you don’t hit the seal on the input shaft while sliding the t-case into position. Second issue was I had two 45mm spacers versus the required 50mm and 45 mm spacers and I didn’t realized it until I assembled everything and it was then when I seated the bearing I realized it was too far into the case.
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Pretty frustrating to say the least.

Anyways, at this point I started to double check everything and realized the new bolts sent to me weren’t the correct pitch. Definitely glad I caught that before using them! Georg sent me the correct set.

Once I had all the correct spacer and I disassembled everything again (4 times now) I pulled the tranny to make installation easier and the rest of the install went off without a hitch.
 
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From my previous posts you know I went back to the original tranny tunnel, from the one provided by Aqualu. I had to make a handful of fabrication changes to make it fit the new tub. One thing I wasn’t sure about, with regards to the Orion, was if the twin stick throw was the same distance as stock. It’s not. The stock t-case tunnel opening wasn’t long enough. I bent the new twin sticks a number of ways to make it as short as possible and limit the needed modifications.
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Even with all the bends the opening wasn’t going to be enough, but I really wanted to use the OEM boot retainer. In the end I had to grind out about 3/4” forward and 1/2” to the rear.
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Much better looking than the provided oval ring in my opinion. Overall, more of a headache than I thought the Orion install would be, but it worked out in the end. For those wondering, if you have a VintageAir air conditioner installed, it WILL interfere with a twin stick but if you refuse to surrender to frustration you can make it all work.

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I was eager to get everything put back together to give it another test drive but it was super late and I had to get some shuteye. Yesterday I put the fuel tank back in, installed all the seats and the moment of truth was finally here. The first test drive after 3.5 years of rebuilding the Cruiser resulted in a pretty significant t-case issue. Fingers crossed I put on my lucky FJ40 shirt, FJ40 hat and telling my bride I need some good juju… I said a little prayer (more like begging and pleading) to God “Please Work, pleeease!” and I started cranking the 44 year old 2F.

Fuel mingled with its friend, Air. Then I introduced Fuel and Air to their long lost friend, Spark. Together these old friends gave me internal combustion. The 2F’s slumber had finally come to an end. The ol’ girl being the reliable Japanese mechanical symphony she is, began to perform. Music to my ears. Just like the day she was made.

Perfection.

With anticipation high, I drove the 40 around the neighborhood. No issues. I ventured further. No mechanical issues. None. The mighty 1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser performed perfectly.

I’ll be honest, I’m a hard person, I spent a year in Afghanistan doing the business of Uncle Sam. I’ve experienced some hard things so I can come across as “removed”, basically, emotions and I don’t mingled too often. The last time I shed a happy tear was 21 years ago, the day I was gifted with my daughter.

This journey has been hard.

This journey has been frustrating.

This journey has been humbling.

This journey has be expensive.

But most of all, I’ve learned a lot about perseverance.

I’ll admit it, I may have suffered from some allergies… A tear.

50 miles later and all is well. The journey to Ushuaia, Argentina began with a simple prayer… “Please Work”
 
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White Stripe said:
Have you tried out 4 low yet? Congratulations! Now drive the tar out of it. Oh and make sure you double check your gear oil level, check for oil leaks, and for any items that may be rubbing or hitting things they shouldn't. That Trans tunnel turned out great.
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I did! There’s 4Lo and then there’s Orion 4Lo! Stupid slow. I love it! Before I drove it I checked triple checked everything. Fluid levels all good. I did tighten up the alternator belt today but that’s it. Once I hit 100 miles I’ll go front to back and re-torque everything and at 500 miles I’ll drain and replace all fluids. Thanks!
 
Congratulations, now the tough part begins, what to do when it doesn’t break down.😉

You know 40”s come in herds. The are best kept with a companion and you need something to work on after the enjoyment of driving wears off.

But until then enjoy the fruits of your labor.
 
Wow, not sure how I missed this build thread! Great color choice, and really good quality work!!

BTW, I've gotten similar metal shards in my eye twice over the course of my restoration project. It's really unpleasant. The first time, I was wearing safety glasses only. The second time, I was wearing safety glasses AND a full face shield...

In both cases, I didn't notice anything in my eye until I laid down in bed for the night after showering. So my hypothesis is that the metal shards got in my hair or eyebrows, and got washed into my eyes in the shower. But who knows. Both required visits to the eye doctor.
 
Turned over 145 miles since getting the 40 back on the road. Only two minor issues to report. First, my oil pressure runs right at the upper ‘normal range’ tick mark. Cold/Hot Idle/High RPM’s, it doesn’t matter. It does vary a little bit. Not terribly concerned because it was normal before the resto, but I will be ordering a new oil pressure switch regardless.

Second thing is that it runs a bit warmer then I like. Again, in hellishly hot Houston traffic, it runs at the upper ‘normal’ tick, which may be perfectly normal. I do now have an A/C condenser in front of the radiator, and the fan sits only about an inch behind the fins due to having to move the radiator back about an inch, so that may account for the slight warmer temps. I haven’t been able to fully burp the coolant system yet because I have no way of lifting the front end the 30° necessary.

And for those who like Cruiser porn, another picture…
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What are you doing for side mirrors? Looked back at photos and couldn't see the drivers side well enough to see if there is one there.
 
Dunbar said:
What are you doing for side mirrors? Looked back at photos and couldn't see the drivers side well enough to see if there is one there.
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No side mirrors, just old skool head turning. I have a mirror set that attach to the windshield hinges but I definitely don’t like the way they look so I don’t use them. I have a new pair of European 40 mirrors that I’ll put on the doors when they’re done, but until then I’ll keep my head on a swivel.
 
I made mine out of some extra shock bushings leftover from my OME kit...one of the pairs (rear?) ships with the wrong bushing, and OME just ships the correct ones to swap in. They were sitting there in the parts bucket, so I used the ones that I pressed out - I just cut it in half to have the correct height for my install.
 
zerotreedelta said:
I made mine out of some extra shock bushings leftover from my OME kit...one of the pairs (rear?) ships with the wrong bushing, and OME just ships the correct ones to swap in. They were sitting there in the parts bucket, so I used the ones that I pressed out - I just cut it in half to have the correct height for my install.
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Any chance you have a pic to share on what this looks like?
 
I don't have any of it on the rig, and it's all apart now - but it was basically one of these hourglass shock bushings. I think the shocks shipped with 1/2" ID holes, which were too small for the rears, so you had to press out those bushings and press in the 5/8" ones to match the rear shock mounts. Either way, whichever ones I had were about the right ID for the 12mm (?) that fits that running board bolt.

I just cut it one in half with a serrated knife, then hit it with the grinder to smooth out and fine tune the height. It compresses a bit, so didn't need to be perfect. I put a fender washer on each side to give it some support as well, kind of like a body mount or engine mount. I put the "fat" end down, just because. :-D

This is the 5/8" one, but it was just a quick google search for a picture. I might actually still have the second one in the parts bin as well.


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Still trying to chase down the overheating issue I’m experiencing. Got an IR temp gun and it confirms the temp gauge is in fact, accurate. I have spent hours and hours reading every post I could find on the subject. Here’s where I’m at…

On surface streets the temp remains fairly reasonable. Only when I go above 50mph does it start to get hot, and by hot I mean right at the tick mark at the upper end of “normal”. When I stop it then creeps up a bit above the tick mark. It does not get hot just idling regardless of timeframe.

First, I have attempted to burp the system twice. I can only get the front tires up about a foot due to jack limitations. Not sure if that’s high enough but that’s the best I can do.

Second, I had the timing set at about 11° advanced because it runs really well there and I get 20 InHg of vacuum. I backed it down to 10° because I read if the timing is too advanced it can cause the temp to run hotter at high RPMs…No Dice. So I backed it all the way down to 7°. Again no joy, and it definitely doesn’t run as smooth. Still hot.

The radiator was cored during the rebuild, the thermostat is new along with all the hoses and water pump. The water temp sender is new as well. System was completely flushed and good water flow during the flush was present out of the block drain. I don’t think I have a blockage because the temp along the block is consistent I did install the Vintage Air system, which required moving the radiator back about an inch, so the fan is now only about 1” from the radiator. Not sure if that would cause this or not. I haven’t read any posts that mention this causing a cooling issue so I imagine it has little effect.

Now I’ll have to move on to other possibilities. My inclination now is perhaps the fan clutch isn’t working properly. There is very little, if any, change in the rotational resistance of the fan clutch between cold and hot. Shouldn’t it be easily noticeable when turning it by hand? If so, I may have found the culprit.

Anyways, that’s where I’m at. Just ordered a new fan clutch and will update when it’s installed. Once the old one is off I do plan on rebuilding it and adding it to my increasing pile of spare parts for the Pan-American Highway.
 
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