I was hoping @White Stripe would chime in. He had some good info in his build about lining them up. I used the Aqualu aluminum half doors. And I will say it took some time adjusting to get them to fit in the opening nice...
Build Project 2027: 1977 FJ40 Rebuild
- Thread starter Jetlander
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- #282
Been camping with the family for the last 4 days but I read over your thread @White Stripe and I have some questions. The gap at the rear of my door is identical from top to bottom so I’m not sure why I would want to pull the cowl with ratchet straps, and even then, did it affect the way your roof lined up? Perhaps I’m just missing what it is exactly that you did to get the alignment right...Hopefully you haven't drilled holes in the cowl yet to mate the tub. Door bushings need to be installed. Get all the lines right then mount the tub including hard top. Your doors will need to be loosened and slid away from the cowl. This may help...
Build - Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build
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Look at post 209 in my thread. I felt the same way as you at that point. But I did what Todd told me as you'll see with the ratchet straps and the cowl pulled closer. I never bolted the roof on, only the hard top sides themselves and the doors.
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Here is an idea for your interior. Its pics of the interior of a electric porsche here. Top of seats are beige, sides are black. Maybe do the opposite on your 40. Top of seats grey or black, sides beige. Then you wont get the beige so dirty.
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- #285
I’ve been slow on updates during the quarantine because I’ve been hammering away on the 40. Work has come to a standstill and I haven’t been to the office in over a month. While I was waiting for the bronze bushings from a MUD member on here, I decided to finally mount up the snorkel I’ve had for over a year, measure twice, and cut once as they say.
As you can see, I got the quik hinges installed. What a beast to get the OEM hinges out. Took about 2 hours per side. The top passenger side hinge removal is no joke hard.
I had a snorkel on my old Tacoma and loved it so I couldn’t pass up the chance to put one on the Cruiser.
As you can see, I got the quik hinges installed. What a beast to get the OEM hinges out. Took about 2 hours per side. The top passenger side hinge removal is no joke hard.
I had a snorkel on my old Tacoma and loved it so I couldn’t pass up the chance to put one on the Cruiser.
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Looking good! Seriously considering installing one on mine.
Care to share how you connected to your air filter box? I've seen installation with a round tube, but my airbox has an oval one (non US)
Care to share how you connected to your air filter box? I've seen installation with a round tube, but my airbox has an oval one (non US)
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- #287
The next project was one I wasn’t looking forward too. The bottom of my windshield frame had more rust than any other part of the rig, minus the tub which I replaced with an Aqualu. I tried to find a nice replacement but after a number of calls it was proving either impossible to find a rust-free one, or one that I wouldn’t have to sell my house to buy. I found a frame that had been damaged on the top but the bottom was in good condition. So game on
BE GONE RED DEVIL!!!
It took over 4 and a half hours of welding to finish the patch.
BE GONE RED DEVIL!!!
It took over 4 and a half hours of welding to finish the patch.
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- #288
Sure thing. I have the newer air cleaner which proved to have its own challenges. Safari Snorkel does provide about 5’ of hose to accommodate those with RHD 40s. Those of us who drive on the correct side of the street don’t have to go as far. Either way I didn’t want to have a bunch of hose that made several bends before getting to the air cleaner so I decided to cut off the intake pipe and reverse it with the intake shroud that mounts to the bib.
This is what is started with. The normal set up.
As you can see in the next photo, I lopped off a good portion of it to make the modification.
I painted it all up and then put it back together. The next photo shows the relative position of the snorkel emerging into the engine compartment and the modified air cleaner intake. Almost a straight shot with the hose.
I don’t have a pic of the hose hooked up because the paint was still pretty fresh.
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- Thread starter
- #289
On another note, I also had to move the radiator and bracket back about an inch to accommodate the Vintage Air A/C condenser. With it mounted to the front of the radiator it didn’t allow enough room for the bib to close properly. Didn’t get any picture of that work. It was pretty straight forward. Cut out the old bolt mounts, drill new holes an inch back or so, then weld in new grade 8 bolts. Luckily I didn’t have to trim the fan shroud, which the instructions said could be required. I had about 1/2” to spare.
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- #290
Once the new door hinge bushing were delivered I got to work trying to get the door gaps sorted out. Why Aqualu doesn’t shorten their tubs by 1/4” between the A pillar and B pillar, I don’t know. Apparently this is an issue with fitment and the fix isn’t terribly simple. With the doors mounted I had to split the tub from the A pillar and grind off the 3/16” metal lip from the A pillar where the two join. Once done I rejoined the two and it still wasn’t close enough for my liking. A quick call to @White Stripe and he talked me through how he pulled the cowl backwards with ratchet straps. I was nervous... Once I got the courage to give it a try, I was able to get everything lined up pretty well.
The door striker was catching nicely and both doors open and close firmly. Thanks @White Stripe for taking the time to chat with me about it.
The door striker was catching nicely and both doors open and close firmly. Thanks @White Stripe for taking the time to chat with me about it.
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Too bad about no photos. I would like to do all the modifications before painting. Sounds like I have take it all apart. Do the body work. Put it back together. Make any modifications needed. Taske it apart...again. Paint. Then reassemble. Aaaagggggh.
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- #292
After the windshield rust had been cut out and repaired I ignorantly thought it would be smooth sailing on the rest of the body work. As far as I was aware, there wasn’t anymore major cancer needing to be fixed...some minor rust pitting sure, but nothing needing full on surgery...but the Cruiser gods had other ideas.....
As I stripped the hood I found rust on the front end that had been covered with bondo. It was bad enough that holes were all the way through the steel. Cursing
I pulled out the cutting wheel and got to work.
The final results came out pretty good. I did have to use a splash of filler to get the very subtle curvature perfect.
As I stripped the hood I found rust on the front end that had been covered with bondo. It was bad enough that holes were all the way through the steel. Cursing
I pulled out the cutting wheel and got to work.The final results came out pretty good. I did have to use a splash of filler to get the very subtle curvature perfect.
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- Thread starter
- #294
Yep, that sounds about right. I don’t think there is a single part I haven’t removed and reinstalled at least 3 times. Good news is, the radiator mount is about a 1
job. Basically get the compressor mounted up, the condenser mounted up and cut off the current bolts at the bottom. Set it on the frame mounting tabs and climb under the rig and mark the location for the new hole. Make sure you leave enough room between the compressor and the radiator shroud for the inevitable movement you’ll get between the engine and frame as things flex. Worst case scenario you’ll have to trim the radiator shroud a bit. I think I was lucky to make it all work without having to do that. But once back on the road it’s very possible I’ll have to revisit the idea of trimming the shroud.
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- #295
I’m expecting some major deliveries tomorrow and the next day. First one is a new roll bar from MetalTech. After mocking up the OEM roll bar I took it apart for powder coating. When I flipped it over and had a good look inside the tube I saw a bunch of rust and pitting. Showed it to the wife and she wasn’t having it. I’m sure she immediately pictured flames and mangled bodies on the side of the road. MetalTech makes a weld yourself kit that mimics the OEM roll bar made out of .12 DOM tubing. Much stronger than the original. I’ll post pics of that as I put it together.
I’m also expecting my rear tire carrier from @lcwizard to be here this week. Going with the dual carrier with the Yeti 45 cooler basket. Can’t wait to see it. I have the 4Plus front bumper and it’s damn near indestructible and I’m expecting no less for the rear.
Final item is a rear tailgate from Aqualu. I was originally going to repair the rust on the bottom of the rear ambulance doors but I decided that idea is going to be a hard pass. Instead I have another project in mind. I’m going to mount the tailgate and then cut off the bottom half of the ambulance doors (where the rust is) and make it a 3 door system. The top half will be ambulance style and the bottom will be a tailgate. Kinda the best of both worlds. It’s an ambitious project that will wait until after the rig is back on the road. Same as the restoration of the entire top.
I’m also expecting my rear tire carrier from @lcwizard to be here this week. Going with the dual carrier with the Yeti 45 cooler basket. Can’t wait to see it. I have the 4Plus front bumper and it’s damn near indestructible and I’m expecting no less for the rear.
Final item is a rear tailgate from Aqualu. I was originally going to repair the rust on the bottom of the rear ambulance doors but I decided that idea is going to be a hard pass. Instead I have another project in mind. I’m going to mount the tailgate and then cut off the bottom half of the ambulance doors (where the rust is) and make it a 3 door system. The top half will be ambulance style and the bottom will be a tailgate. Kinda the best of both worlds. It’s an ambitious project that will wait until after the rig is back on the road. Same as the restoration of the entire top.
- Thread starter
- #296
Wow. A lot of posting so far tonight but I have a couple more. The next thing I did after I finished the hood was paint. On a side note, I’m not a painter. Never done it before but as always, I’m willing to learn as I go.
A couple of coats of primer with lots and lots of wet sanding in between. Then 3 coats of paint with plenty of sanding in between as well. Finalize the deal with 3 coats of clear.
In the sun photo before moving it up to my office in the house for safe keeping. I have probably 30 painted parts in my office already, and my wife asked my how many more. She gave me the look when I said the entire rig will be in there minus the tub before it’s all over. Needless to say, I got the “look”. In my defense, she’s the one who told me to buy the Land Cruiser in the first place.
A couple of coats of primer with lots and lots of wet sanding in between. Then 3 coats of paint with plenty of sanding in between as well. Finalize the deal with 3 coats of clear.
In the sun photo before moving it up to my office in the house for safe keeping. I have probably 30 painted parts in my office already, and my wife asked my how many more. She gave me the look when I said the entire rig will be in there minus the tub before it’s all over. Needless to say, I got the “look”. In my defense, she’s the one who told me to buy the Land Cruiser in the first place.
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Bummer about the rust. That really slows progress.
Nice work! Hang on to that snorkel template, I've had several people ask me if I still had mine...…...and I don't.
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- #300
And...
My final post to bring this thread up to date.
I’ve stripped to bare metal and primed both aprons, the bib, and the windshield frame. I’m kinda in a holding pattern right now because my air compressor musta had dirt on Hillary, cause it died all of a sudden. Painting will have to wait for the repair to happen.
I’ve had the top in a storage unit for the better part of a few years. No final mock up would be complete without putting the top on and making sure everything lined up. I knew there would be some slight modifications to the top to allow it to sit snuggly on the Aqualu tub, plus I had to drill all the rail mounting holes. It’s a good thing my bride is a crossfitter and throws weights around all the time. In the times of social distancing and quarantine I had only her to give me a hand in lifting and loading it in the back of the Tundra to bring it home.
First step was to cut off the damn posts that go into the B pillar. I always hated them anyways. Not sure what Toyota was thinks when there are already 17 bolts that hold the top on. Anyways, some pics making sure things fit together.
The top fits better now than what this picture shows. I had to grind down some of the welds in the aluminum tub right behind the B pillar so I could slide it forward that last 1/4”.
I’m digging my quarantine beard. I haven’t been able to have any facial hair for the last 24 years, basically since I joined the Air Force in 1996. I’m about 2 weeks into it here. But I digress. Lots of tweaking to make sure everything fits nicely. It does now. Maybe even tighter than the day it rolled off the assembly line in Japan 43 years ago.
It’s been so damn long since I started that I actually forgot how friggin sexy an FJ40 is when all put together, especially with the top on. So close I can feel it!!!
My final post to bring this thread up to date.
I’ve stripped to bare metal and primed both aprons, the bib, and the windshield frame. I’m kinda in a holding pattern right now because my air compressor musta had dirt on Hillary, cause it died all of a sudden. Painting will have to wait for the repair to happen.
I’ve had the top in a storage unit for the better part of a few years. No final mock up would be complete without putting the top on and making sure everything lined up. I knew there would be some slight modifications to the top to allow it to sit snuggly on the Aqualu tub, plus I had to drill all the rail mounting holes. It’s a good thing my bride is a crossfitter and throws weights around all the time. In the times of social distancing and quarantine I had only her to give me a hand in lifting and loading it in the back of the Tundra to bring it home.
First step was to cut off the damn posts that go into the B pillar. I always hated them anyways. Not sure what Toyota was thinks when there are already 17 bolts that hold the top on. Anyways, some pics making sure things fit together.
The top fits better now than what this picture shows. I had to grind down some of the welds in the aluminum tub right behind the B pillar so I could slide it forward that last 1/4”.
I’m digging my quarantine beard. I haven’t been able to have any facial hair for the last 24 years, basically since I joined the Air Force in 1996. I’m about 2 weeks into it here. But I digress. Lots of tweaking to make sure everything fits nicely. It does now. Maybe even tighter than the day it rolled off the assembly line in Japan 43 years ago.
It’s been so damn long since I started that I actually forgot how friggin sexy an FJ40 is when all put together, especially with the top on. So close I can feel it!!!
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