Porch Transfer Case Rebuild (Lotso Pics)

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Me 2.

Any leads on a good soruce for the Tranf case kt?
The Transmission is fine, but I assume there are some Transmission seals I will need to replace as well while everything is on the the work bench.

Thanks,
 
Thanks @Azrocks for the great writeup, I'm following it right now and am in the process of separating the transmission from the Transfer case. They are both out of the 40, on my garage floor (doing a frame off restoration). Can someone please take a look at the staked nut holding the T-case to the transmission? Mine does not look like Azrocks and I want to make sure I don't need to be releasing that little tab or something before cranking on it with the impact wrench. I just happened to have exactly the right size socket, so that was a pleasant surprise.
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While I'm posting this, does this amount of metal shavings inside the dome cover thing raise any red flags for anyone? I know @Coolerman had a lot more sludge in his cover, just want to make sure that's to be expected.
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I ended up bending back that little tab, but now I'm having different problems getting that big nut off. Because the transmission-transfer case assembly is already out of the truck (and disconnected from the engine), there is nothing keeping the shaft from spinning when I put the impact wrench on it. Any suggestions on how to get that nut off? I was able to put it in gear, but I can't figure out how to keep the shaft on the other end of the transmission from spinning. I obviously can't put vice grips or similar on it, because that will destroy the splines.
Any help much appreciated! Hoping to get through this T-case rebuild over the long weekend.
 
With 4WD engaged slip a large breaker bar or crowbar between the driveshaft bolts on the parking brake drum (temporarily install nuts to keep the bar from messing up the threads) so that the parking brake drum cannot rotate. That should keep things from rotating. IIRC the Toyota SST (special service tool) is a long bar with a flat plate at one end, the plate has four holes to match the driveshaft bolt pattern.
 
Thanks @4Cruisers, that was the thing I was missing. I worked on it a good bit today and am having new troubles. On the front drive extension (thing that looks a bit like a cone), I can't get the shaft/bearing to come out. I have hit it with multiple mallets and hammers, and tried using a bearing puller to press the shaft out, but it won't budge. Here's what I'm talking about:
Photo Jul 02, 10 37 55 PM.webp

That end of the shaft in the above picture is the one I am trying to press down and out. The image below is just showing the other side (and proving I did get the retaining clip out already)
Photo Jul 02, 10 37 37 PM.webp



My second problem is the shift fork shaft inside the transfer case. @Coolerman's writeup says he just used a punch to get it out, but again I'm tapping it pretty hard with a hammer and punch and it hasn't moved (yes I took the bolt and retaining clip off on the other side).
Photo Jul 02, 10 37 11 PM.webp



So my question is this: should I just hit them harder? The one other thought I had was to heat the tough spots up with a torch, but I was just about to light it when it occurred to me that the pieces were covered in oil, so I changed my mind. I'm considering taking it to ACC and having them give me a hand taking it apart (hopefully they'll have a hydraulic press or some clever technique). How much hammering can the housing take?
 
Thanks @4Cruisers, that was the thing I was missing. I worked on it a good bit today and am having new troubles. On the front drive extension (thing that looks a bit like a cone), I can't get the shaft/bearing to come out. I have hit it with multiple mallets and hammers, and tried using a bearing puller to press the shaft out, but it won't budge. Here's what I'm talking about:
View attachment 1284624
That end of the shaft in the above picture is the one I am trying to press down and out. The image below is just showing the other side (and proving I did get the retaining clip out already)
View attachment 1284626


My second problem is the shift fork shaft inside the transfer case. @Coolerman's writeup says he just used a punch to get it out, but again I'm tapping it pretty hard with a hammer and punch and it hasn't moved (yes I took the bolt and retaining clip off on the other side).
View attachment 1284627


So my question is this: should I just hit them harder? The one other thought I had was to heat the tough spots up with a torch, but I was just about to light it when it occurred to me that the pieces were covered in oil, so I changed my mind. I'm considering taking it to ACC and having them give me a hand taking it apart (hopefully they'll have a hydraulic press or some clever technique). How much hammering can the housing take?
I took the case to an auto shop to get that pin out. First try was with a press and that did not work. So the shaft was pushed toward the front of the case and they used a grinder to taper the end then drove it out.
 
Adding to this thread rather than starting a whole new one since I am doing a similar porch rebuild. Acquired this transfer case from an old timer buddy of mine that has since passed, so getting additional information on it's history isn't possible. When he gave it to me he stated that it had been fully rebuilt but a gear had been put in backwards and so it wouldn't turn. I received it as a bucket o parts, which I'm finding is missing some things (I'm not complaining!). However, rather than a gear being placed backwards, it seems there is an entirely wrong gear placed in here? All the gears in the case are helical with the exception of one spur gear on the transmission input side. Any help with what gear I have/need to purchase and what transfer case I actually have would be greatly appreciated! Tagging @cruiseroutfit @orangefj45 @65swb45 as you gentleman are my likely source for any/all parts I might need here!

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And last but not least, I'v seen others post pictures of what I assume are production year numbers, however this case has nothing...
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Thanks in advance!
Clark White

EDIT: I was just out looking at it and my not very well trained brain thinks there should only be the one gear, not two on the transmission input side, is this correct? In which case I just need to leave that spur gear entirely out, not replace it. When I got the case both those gears were in there loose.
 
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There are two gears on the transmission output shaft, the input gear (red) and PTO gear (blue)(straight cut).

Input is the 36212-60020, 10 spline, 29 tooth. Standard "3 speed" input gear.

The PTO is the 36215-60011, 10 spline, 31 teeth. Our part# TCG362156011 fwiw

Edit, better image.
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So, the extra gear is NOT your issue so long as it's the rear most position, not the front. Does the idler gear (middle gear cluster) spin free with the high-selector sleeve in the middle (neutral) position? Does it spin in high and low position?
 
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You have a 4 speed transfer case gear set and a 3 speed input gear; that is the problem. There are two 4 speed input gears available for that gearset , different internal splines, depending on whether you are planning to put the tcase behind a 3 speed transmission or a 4 speed.

I have both available.😊
 
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Mark is correct. You have the wrong ( “3-speed”) input gear.
You need a 16-spline “wide” input gear to make that Tcase work.

Which Transmission are you touching this to?

We can certainly help. We have all the parts and pieces in stock. Feel free to reach out.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
 
I am putting this behind a 4spd tranny. I THINK it is out of a 1974, but I certainly don't KNOW that as the PO made this an impressive frankentruck of years. Is there any variation in diameter of the idler shaft? I haven't put a hammer to it, but the shaft seems much larger than the case so I do not know if the gears spin freely or not.
 
I am putting this behind a 4spd tranny. I THINK it is out of a 1974, but I certainly don't KNOW that as the PO made this an impressive frankentruck of years. Is there any variation in diameter of the idler shaft? I haven't put a hammer to it, but the shaft seems much larger than the case so I do not know if the gears spin freely or not.
Give us a call at the shop 209-475-8808 and let’s chat about your project.
I think that would be a lot more productive and speed things up versus posting questions here.
Happy to help.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
I am putting this behind a 4spd tranny. I THINK it is out of a 1974, but I certainly don't KNOW that as the PO made this an impressive frankentruck of years. Is there any variation in diameter of the idler shaft? I haven't put a hammer to it, but the shaft seems much larger than the case so I do not know if the gears spin freely or not.

Did you see my earlier inquiries. I'd be curious if there are any other mix/match parts on that case.

Does the idler gear (middle gear cluster) spin free and smooth with the high-selector sleeve in the middle (neutral) position?
Does it spin in high and low position? Sound smooth?
It's quick/easy to count the teeth on the idler gears (both sides), and the high and low output gears.

Assuming it's a 75+ 4-speed case, you should have
Idler: 41x27 Tooth (versus 39x25 & 39x27)
High Speed Output: 31 tooth (versus 29 tooth)
Low Speed Output: 40 tooth (versus 43 tooth)

If, all those check out for 75+ 4spd AND you are mating it to a 4 speed (16 spline) then you simply need this gear

If you plan for a PTO, you need this:
Part# TCG3621560020 - TC PTO Gear - 4SPD 9/73-7/80 - 31 Tooth
 
@cruiseroutfit @65swb45 @orangefj45 since thread has already been highjacked let ask you about the 9/73-4/75 four speed transition T case. Is the OD of the bearing at the back of the transmission output shaft different between the three and four speed? Part numbers for the case are different for the three and four speed. Been over thirty years since I installed a four speed in my 68 using the original transfer case. Sourced Toyota parts for the input and PTO gears. Think the rear bearing was sourced from a vendor. Reason I ask is putting together a four speed/transfer case for my 68. I know the tail shaft on the current four speed is worn. Have better fours and a few loose transition transfer cases. I have more of the PTO gears and the 29 teeth 32 spline input gears. But I also have a few three speed cases in parts. Is possible to use the transition case and replace the idler gear and low range output gear from a three speed case and get the same results with later case?
 
@cruiseroutfit @65swb45 @orangefj45 since thread has already been highjacked let ask you about the 9/73-4/75 four speed transition T case. Is the OD of the bearing at the back of the transmission output shaft different between the three and four speed? Part numbers for the case are different for the three and four speed. Been over thirty years since I installed a four speed in my 68 using the original transfer case. Sourced Toyota parts for the input and PTO gears. Think the rear bearing was sourced from a vendor. Reason I ask is putting together a four speed/transfer case for my 68. I know the tail shaft on the current four speed is worn. Have better fours and a few loose transition transfer cases. I have more of the PTO gears and the 29 teeth 32 spline input gears. But I also have a few three speed cases in parts. Is possible to use the transition case and replace the idler gear and low range output gear from a three speed case and get the same results with later case?

Yes, the rear bearing dimension is different.

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The 3speed (10 spline) is the 97103-06306 (our part TCB06306) and is 30mm ID & 72mm OD
The 4speed (16 spline 9/73+ 1pc case) is the 97104-06332 (our part TCB06332) and is 32mm ID & 75mm OD

If mating a 4speed trans to a 3 speed case, you need a conversion bearing, our part# TCTG06306, it is 32mm ID & 72mm OD
Details on that conversion here: Cruiser Outfitters - https://cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_4spdtrans_3spdtc.html
(forgive the typo's, that page was built in 2003 :D)

There is even a way to go from a 3spd J30 transmission to the 4spd 1pc t-case using the TCG3621260021 and a 30mmx75mm bearing. That gear has the 10 spline for the J30 but the 31 teeth needed for the 4spd 1pc t-case.
 
Counted all the teeth and they all match your counts @cruiseroutfit so it looks like I need to order that gear you linked, and probably a new gasket set since I know I'm missing a few. With the shifter in neutral I can spin the output shaft without the gears moving and everything spins smooth and quiet in H and L. Everything seems to shift smoothly and feels tight. I have 0.178mm between the idler gear set and the thrust washer.
 
Counted all the teeth and they all match your counts @cruiseroutfit so it looks like I need to order that gear you linked, and probably a new gasket set since I know I'm missing a few. With the shifter in neutral I can spin the output shaft without the gears moving and everything spins smooth and quiet in H and L. Everything seems to shift smoothly and feels tight. I have 0.178mm between the idler gear set and the thrust washer.

That is great news, it's all isolated to the input gear. It sounds like your friend simply tried to mate the 75+ 4spd case up to a 3spd with the wrong input gear. The 3spd trans to 4spd t-case input gear is a rare conversion, I see we've sold just a couple in the recent years. Going from the 4spd trans to the 3spd t-case is faaaaaaaare more common as folks like the 2.313 low range versus the 1.999 of the 4spd t-case.

The gasket kit you also need:

If you want to re-gasket and re-seal the transmission and t-case, we have those kits too:
 
I do not have a PTO winch or anything else, but would it make sense to install that gear while I'm in there just to have it incase I someday acquire a PTO winch? Is there a spacer needed if I do not install the PTO gear? What about a welsh plug to seal up the back of the idler shaft? And thoughts on the worm gear for the spedo cable, this new t-case does not have one, should I get a new one or just reuse the one currently on the truck?

Thanks!
 
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