PLEASE HELP w/ my 2002 LX470 Dashboard ABS Lights On (1 Viewer)

[irapaf20]

Hey everybody.

I stumbled across this forum when I was looking for people who have encountered the ABS problem for the Land Cruisers. I suck with cars and am just learning about this car so that's why I'm here, haha. It's cool that this place exists and I'm excited to frequent it.

As of right now, my ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF & BRAKE lights are on. When this first happened, I immediately went to a local mechanic and got my brakes checked and a diagnostic done. They said my brake pads are low but my brakes are fine and aren't failing. They said my ABS unit was malfunctioning and that I'd have to fix it but I'd be fine to drive it if I'm careful.

I've been driving the car for a month with all of these lights on. I took it to the dealership for a second opinion and they also told me that it was the ABS unit (ABS actuator not responding to ECU) and that the whole unit had to be replaced to be safe. They quoted $4600.

I've seen some of the owners on this forum completely remove their ABS system in general so my questions are:

Is it safe to continue driving this car if I avoid slamming on my brakes and sharp turns?
Would it be safe to go on a cross-country road trip of 2500 miles over the course of 4 days with these lights on if my brakes are OK (I want to replace my brake pads and rotors to see if the brake light will turn off)? I would get the ABS fixed after getting to the destination.
Is there any other way I could get this ABS system fixed without paying $4600 to the dealer? It's such a hit

Thanks in advance to anyone who drops a thought/opinion or two!

 

[Texsun84]

First off, I am not an expert here. Just bought my first LC/LX a couple of weeks ago. I have been fiddling with 4x4’s most of my adult life and worked at a service station in HS and college.

That being said, I would absolutely not take your truck on a road trip in the state it’s in. Apparently these things have the tendency for total brake failure...there’s a sticky on the subject in this forum.

$4600 is indeed quit the hit. If you already have a good working relationship with a mechanic AND he’ll let you supply your own parts, go that route. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable can get you the OEM parts numbers. Stick with OEM as most aftermarket parts are trash these days. If you don’t have a good mechanic already you probably need to bite the bullet.

I’m stressing the mechanic relationship because this is not the time to test drive one. Good mechanics are extremely rare in my experience and you’re likely to get screwed over on quality of work, price or both.

 

[2001LC]

Your ABS and VSC (00-07) has shut down. This happens if most any faulty in engine, transmission or brakes accrue. Except low worn out brake pads. It can be very difficult to isolate issue in the brake master assembly. Dealership in general do one thing. Which is R&R the master assembly w/booster. Some will just R&R the master or just booster assembly.

If Dealership is correct and fault is in ABS unit (black box on side of master). It needs replacing. Depending on age, mileage and how well and often brakes flushed or not. It may well be better to replace the whole master assembly w/booster.

I did help out a local mud member, that had similar issue. He pick-up a salvage yard ABS unit (just black box). We installed and save him $4k. But this can be risky. Whereas the ABS unit worked. Other components may fail later. If the booster motor does not run, we loose brakes. The ABS holds the relay that pass power to booster motor. It also has pressure switch the tell booster motor when to start and stop. The motor and wire between the ABS and motor also need consideration.

You can drive as long you have pressure in brake system. That is as booster motor starts and stops as normal and your system holds pressure as designed. You just do not have ABS. In years 00-07, that means no VSC also. Personally I learned to drive on ice and snow without ABS, which I prefer. For me it's strange to just push and hold brakes.

 

[gawaterfowler]

First off don’t continue to drive it that way. If the abs system goes out it can cause a total brake system failure. You’ll be driving and brake pedal just goes to the floor. It’s an expensive repair however there are some cheaper alternatives. There is a guy on eBay who rebuilds the units and guys in Facebook groups I’m on with the 100 series have gone that route with good success. It’s roughly 5-600 depending on your year model. It takes roughly a week from pulling it then shipping it for him to rebuild then reinstall once it gets back. Several of those guys have had the work preformed by a shop and for that route total was roughly 11-1300 bucks. The next option is to find a used unit and hope it works as it should. Several guys on here had actually pulled the unit and rebuilt them themselves but that’s not something I’d suggest unless you’re confident in your mechanical abilities considering it’s your brake system.

 

[spc7669]

First off don’t continue to drive it that way. If the abs system goes out it can cause a total brake system failure. You’ll be driving and brake pedal just goes to the floor. It’s an expensive repair however there are some cheaper alternatives. There is a guy on eBay who rebuilds the units and guys in Facebook groups I’m on with the 100 series have gone that route with good success. It’s roughly 5-600 depending on your year model. It takes roughly a week from pulling it then shipping it for him to rebuild then reinstall once it gets back. Several of those guys have had the work preformed by a shop and for that route total was roughly 11-1300 bucks. The next option is to find a used unit and hope it works as it should. Several guys on here had actually pulled the unit and rebuilt them themselves but that’s not something I’d suggest unless you’re confident in your mechanical abilities considering it’s your brake system.

There is an absurd amount of information in the sticky on total brake failure. It’s well worth the read if you own a 100 series.
I too am mechanically challenged, but reading the thread tells you what to look, listen, and feel for regarding brake problems. If I didn’t have that information my head would’ve exploded when the brake problems inevitably happened.
I have an awesome local mechanic I’ve used for 20 years. He priced me 560.00 to do the labor if I provide the parts. Research on here has proven the parts to be expensive, but much less if you source them yourself.
Since my 1000 is 21 years old with 280K, I am keeping 3 grand in a savings account for big emergency repairs. That’s probably 6 months of car payments for a normal person.
Folks on here will help you make the best of your situation. People who don’t know about Mud are at the mercy of the dealerships and sometimes less than honest mechanics.

 

[irapaf20]

Your ABS and VSC (00-07) has shut down. This happens if any most faulty in engine, transmission or brakes accrue. Except worn out brake pads. It can be very difficult to isolate issue in the brake master assembly. Dealership in general do one thing. Which is R&R the master assembly w/booster. Some will just R&R the master or just booster assembly.

If Dealership is correct and fault is in ABS unit (black box on side of master). It needs replacing. Depending on age, mileage and how well and often brakes flushed or not. It may well be better to replace the whole master assembly w/booster.

I did help out a local mud member, that had similar issue. He pick-up a salvage yard ABS unit (just black box). We installed and save him $4k. But this can be risky. Whereas the ABS unit worked. Other components may fail later. If the booster motor does not run, we loose brakes. The ABS holds the relay that pass power to booster motor. It also has pressure switch the tell booster motor when to start and stop. The motor and wire between the ABS and motor also need consideration.

You can drive as long you have pressure in brake system. That is as booster motor starts and stops as normal and your system holds pressure as designed. You just do not have ABS. In years 00-07, that means no VSC also. Personally I learned to drive on ice and snow without ABS, which I prefer. For me it's strange to just push and hold brakes.

Hi, thanks a lot for your reply and insight.

It’s a 2002 Lexus LX470 with 48k miles. It’s been sitting around non operational for 5-7 years (don’t know if this fact contributes to the ABS unit issue). Since it’s been sitting for that long, no maintenance was done and I’m not sure if the brakes were even bled.

The black box unit you’re speaking of, is it the fuse box with ABS components in the engine bay or is it the ECU underneath the drivers side board?

Is it possible to just buy the sole ECU refurbished and try swapping it out and seeing if that works or does the whole unit need to go all together?

The booster you’re speaking of: it’s the hydraulic cylinder boost pump thing in the engine bay right? That works for the most part. It seems like it works, then malfunctions and fails and then tries to work again. I’m not sure entirely though because I’m not sure how a normal undamaged one should work. Would you be able to provide some insight as to what contributes to the booster pump failing and me losing brakes? So that I can see if the system holds pressure and to see if it’s safe to continue driving it?

thanks a lot. I know this is a lot and it seems pretty basic knowledge to you but to me it’s all golden.

 

[leveeguy]

Maybe try this, with engine off push the brake pedal at least 40 times, or until the pedal gets really easy to push down after the initial resistance you notice when you start the process. After that start the vehicle and listen for the master cylinder pressurizing (sort of a buzzing sound you've prob heard before at initial startup). You'll want to record the amount of time that you hear the buzzing sound which I believe should be about 30 - 40 seconds before the buzzing sound stops. Post results here esp if runs a lot less or more than 30 -40 seconds.

 

[2001LC]

Hi, thanks a lot for your reply and insight.

It’s a 2002 Lexus LX470 with 48k miles. It’s been sitting around non operational for 5-7 years (don’t know if this fact contributes to the ABS unit issue). Since it’s been sitting for that long, no maintenance was done and I’m not sure if the brakes were even bled. It may still have factory brake fluid.

The black box unit you’re speaking of, is it the fuse box with ABS components in the engine bay or is it the ECU underneath the drivers side board?

Is it possible to just buy the sole ECU refurbished and try swapping it out and seeing if that works or does the whole unit need to go all together?

The booster you’re speaking of: it’s the hydraulic cylinder boost pump thing in the engine bay right? That works for the most part. It seems like it works, then malfunctions and fails and then tries to work again. I’m not sure entirely though because I’m not sure how a normal undamaged one should work. Would you be able to provide some insight as to what contributes to the booster pump failing and me losing brakes? So that I can see if the system holds pressure and to see if it’s safe to continue driving it?

thanks a lot. I know this is a lot and it seems pretty basic knowledge to you but to me it’s all golden.

These rigs don't like setting around. They can get some interesting issues. But anything can be fixed.
How good are you at wrenching?
What code did the shop read?

Check service history using you VIN", at my Lexusowners.com. If factory brake fluid fill still in, I'm less concerned. Flush every 2 to 3 years after first flush.

Black box on side of master brake assembly. Is commonly call the ABS unit. This is $4,500 to $5,500 job where they replace the whole master assembly.

The ABS computer (ECU underneath the drivers side) is under dash near brake pedal. That a $1,200 job.

The booster motor, pump and accumulator. Is attached to the master brake assembly, which master has brake fluid reservoir on top of it.

The booster motor runs on demand, as more pressure needed. Motor should run, each time or two you use brakes (press of brake pedal). It will run just after setting awhile. It should stop running in 40 seconds or less. While operating it will come on for just short burst.

You can get most any part used and try it. Verify PN # based on year 100 series part pulled from. Most import is that motor comes on and builds pressure in system and fluid level correct. If you have pressure you have brakes

Try this, you may get lucky:

First read whats embossed on the brake fluid reservoir. Top fluid as it instructs.

Then disconnect the battery and clean the post & clamps, then grease them. Leave disconnected for 30 minutes. Make sure battery is above 12.7 volts. I like 13.4V after over night trickle charge. Lower and it's a weak battery.

While battery disconnected, disconnect wire blocks from ABS unit and ABS computer. Spray each connection with electric contact cleaner that's safe for plastic. Plug them all back in.

Clear code.

See what if any, codes come back.

 

[Magikarp]

Check out these 2 posts to save you some money:

Source for rebuilt booster pump on master cylinder

Recently the dash lit up like like a Christmas tree w/ the annoying whine. ABS, Atrac, 8 track, half track and other lights came on. The power in the power brakes became intermittent then died completely. The booster motor at the bottom of the master cylinder was not working. 15 years...

forum.ih8mud.com

“Total” brake failure yesterday... accumulator pump motor CONFIRMED

I experienced a “total” break failure in my ‘00 Cruiser yesterday. I’ve had the truck since January. During the first couple of weeks of ownership, I got the ABS/TRAC/Brake lights on the dash with the alarm... always on a cold morning first start. It would typically go away after 30 to 40...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Mister Tom]

These rigs don't like setting around. They can get some interesting issues. But anything can be fixed.
How good are you at wrenching?
What code did the shop read?

Check service history using you VIN", at my Lexusowners.com. If factory brake fluid fill still in, I'm less concerned. Flush every 2 to 3 years after first flush.

Black box on side of master brake assembly. Is commonly call the ABS unit. This is $4,500 to $5,500 job where they replace the whole master assembly.

The ABS computer (ECU underneath the drivers side) is under dash near brake pedal. That a $1,200 job.

The booster motor, pump and accumulator. Is attached to the master brake assembly, which master has brake fluid reservoir on top of it.

The booster motor runs on demand, as more pressure needed. Motor should run, each time or two you use brakes (press of brake pedal). It will run just after setting awhile. It should stop running in 40 seconds or less. While operating it will come on for just short burst.

You can get most any part used and try it. Verify PN # based on year 100 series part pulled from. Most import is that motor comes on and builds pressure in system and fluid level correct. If you have pressure you have brakes

Try this, you may get lucky:

First read whats embossed on the brake fluid reservoir. Top fluid as it instructs.

Then disconnect the battery and clean the post & clamps, then grease them. Leave disconnected for 30 minutes. Make sure battery is above 12.7 volts. I like 13.4V after over night trickle charge. Lower and it's a weak battery.

While battery disconnected, disconnect wire blocks from ABS unit and ABS computer. Spray each connection with electric contact cleaner that's safe for plastic. Plug them all back in.

Clear code.

See what if any, codes come back.

2000 Land Cruiser and all the ABS, TRAC, Break lights, etc are lit. Car brakes fine, master cylinder, booster pump all working fine. Hooking up ABD II meter up and it says can not communicate with ECU. So I'm thinking bad ECU or maybe as simple as it's not getting power. Any ieead as to which connector and pin the 12vdc comes in on? A diagram would be great but I can not find one. Any assistance...most appreciated. Thank you

 

[2001LC]

I'm not the one to ask about which pin. Hopefully someone will post for.

By "ABD II meter". Are you trying to hook a OBD II reader. If so check that all the pins on reader straight. Also check that it function on another vehicle.

 

[Mister Tom]

I'm not the one to ask about which pin. Hopefully someone will post for.

By "ABD II meter". Are you trying to hook a OBD II reader. If so check that all the pins on reader straight. Also check that it function on another vehicle.

Pins are straight and the reader works fine on my 2005 Mazda Tribute. It also seems to work fine on the Land Cruiser except when I try to read ABS. The reader then says...unable to communicate. That's what leads me to believe there is an ABS ECU issue. Checked the obvious fuses under the hood but want to check power into the ECU but don't know which connector at the ECU and what pin?