PHH shenanigans

[MissahPapaJ]

Ayo, gonna refresh the cooling system on the 80 and I’m reading a lot of people using silicon hose in place of the factory hose for the PHH off of the OE pipe. I can’t seem to find just that 2-3” hose by itself and what constant tension clamps to use. Any help would be appreciated. What size of silicon hose to use and what P/N of Toyota constant tension clamps. I’ve tried to search for this a few times no luck.

 

[Marvelicious]

I'm completely anti-silicone for coolant hose. I did it once, never again. Rubber hose literally vulcanizes itself to the fittings and creates a chemical bond that seals, silicone does not.

Get some Gates Green Stripe or Napa Gold Stripe (insist on these specifically, they're considerably heavier than the standard grade), and quality tension clamps. There's also a U bend hose from a Honda (I think) that can eliminate that metal U bend next to the heater valve, simplifying things a little more. There's a part number in a thread somewhere... Edit: Gates 18701. Some people cut it down a touch, I saw no need.

 

[alia176]

I've replaced the PHH with a Gates rubber hose and used two constant tension clamps. I've had this rig for 23 years so I must've done this back in '05 maybe? In any case, no issues in all that time.

Or just eliminate the hard metal pipe, and run a rubber hose from the block nipple all the way up to the heater valve. I've seen this done, and from the sounds of it, maybe a lot easier with a LOT less cussing.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

I've replaced the PHH with a Gates rubber hose and used two constant tension clamps. I've had this rig for 23 years so I must've done this back in '05 maybe? In any case, no issues in all that time.

Or just eliminate the hard metal pipe, and run a rubber hose from the block nipple all the way up to the heater valve. I've seen this done, and from the sounds of it, maybe a lot easier with a LOT less cussing.

I bought a 80 series specifically for the cussing, been a mechanic for 20 years now ( open shop ) so most jobs aren’t out of my wheel house or above my head. I’ve never had a customer with a 80 series so I’ve got no experience on those except for what I’ve already done on mine. But now it’s time for a refresh of the cooling system and a complete un-faulking of all the garbage work that was previously done by jamokes and jabrones alike

 

[Rifleman]

Or just eliminate the hard metal pipe, and run a rubber hose from the block nipple all the way up to the heater valve. I've seen this done, and from the sounds of it, maybe a lot easier with a LOT less cussing.

I've changed more then one PHH, and it's kind of a PITA dealing with the bolts that hold that metal coolant pipe in place, but it's NOTHING compared to changing the oil cooler to engine block coolant hose on a 2000 Tacoma with a 5VZ engine. Trust me, if you like using swear words, you'll get the chance to use every swear word you know changing that coolant hose.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

I've changed more then one PHH, and it's kind of a PITA dealing with the bolts that hold that metal coolant pipe in place, but it's NOTHING compared to changing the oil cooler to engine block coolant hose on a 2000 Tacoma with a 5VZ engine. Trust me, if you like using swear words, you'll get the chance to use every swear word you know changing that coolant hose.

I’ve done multiple and no guff they’re a real chore anytime I have to pull a 5VZ that’s the best time to replace the cooler hoses. If you have an upper engine support brace and remove the drivers side engine mount it’s really a lot easier.

 

[Marvelicious]

I've replaced the PHH with a Gates rubber hose and used two constant tension clamps. I've had this rig for 23 years so I must've done this back in '05 maybe? In any case, no issues in all that time.

Or just eliminate the hard metal pipe, and run a rubber hose from the block nipple all the way up to the heater valve. I've seen this done, and from the sounds of it, maybe a lot easier with a LOT less cussing.

Yeah, I probably wasn't clear, but that's what I intended to suggest with my first post. Less hose-to-fitting interfaces are a good thing in my mind, so eliminating the PHH pipe AND that 180 pipe at the heater valve are worth doing to me.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

I'm completely anti-silicone for coolant hose. I did it once, never again. Rubber hose literally vulcanizes itself to the fittings and creates a chemical bond that seals, silicone does not.

Get some Gates Green Stripe or Napa Gold Stripe (insist on these specifically, they're considerably heavier than the standard grade), and quality tension clamps. There's also a U bend hose from a Honda (I think) that can eliminate that metal U bend next to the heater valve, simplifying things a little more. There's a part number in a thread somewhere... Edit: Gates 18701. Some people cut it down a touch, I saw no need.

What size hose?

 

[LXDOC]

5/8 inch (see below from mud thread).

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Replaced my original PHH at 111,111 miles with a Samco Sport silicone hose.

Did a complete top end refresh at 405,xxx miles and replaced all of the heater hoses as well as the Samco PHH (that was still in perfect condition) with new HPS silicone hoses

 

[BucketEighty]

5/8" ID Gates Green Stripe Heater Hose and two Breeze CT 9410 constant tension clamps should do it. I used silicone hose for mine and it's working fine, but I have come around to the "rubber hoses are better" camp. The good clamps: Breeze - CT 9410 Constant-Torque Stainless Steel Hose Clamp, Worm-Drive, SAE Size 10, 9/16" to 1-1/16" Diameter Range, 9/16" Band Width (Pack of 10): Worm Gear Hose Clamps: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SD02VM?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

 

[67cruiser]

I used a Gates hose and heavy clamps (Wits End)

 

[mudgudgeon]

I've used quality generuc rubber hose and Toyota spring clamps each time I've changed a PHH.
Use new ones, that have the retaining clip on them to hold them in the open position.
Get the hose in place, position clamps where you want them, pop the retainer off, and call it good for the next 20years.
The less screwing about (literally) under there the better