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Alex Skumatov, a Toyota body guy out of Greenville, SC bailed me out this time. I owe him my truck's new life and made a pact with him that this was a one-time deal. No more second chances. Now it's my responsibility to look after this truck- and I'm inclined to keep it for life (already was, but now it's even more personal).

It's important for me to continue to remember that I walked away from this without so much as a scratch. All the busted glass fell out of the truck. The windshield and sunroof stayed together. It could've been really really bad if a few things were different. I'm grateful to my friends who have counseled me through the whole ordeal. @ga12r1 kept a calm head when we had to recover the truck- even though he ran out of gas on the trail 😂 (I wound up towing him downhill in my busted LX). All this to say, I've learned a lot since September.

Hey, that’s my neck of the woods (Fountain Inn)! Glad you got to save your LX.
 
With all pressure removed from the driver's side TB I jacked it up to max compression testing out the new front bump stop spacers (testing to see if the size is correct).

The AHC spacers for the LCAs add approx. 1" of down travel with this setup but bump stop spacers are required to prevent blowing up the shock.


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Will more than likely upgrade the hardware to 10.9 as these are 4.8 from Japan 4x4. Also decided not to drill the LCA just yet so I can test these with the bare minimum since I assume some customers of mine may not want to drill their LCAs...
 
Thanks for researching this. A couple of questions: how high is that tire off the ground? Is the shock spacer touching cv boot on full droop?
 
Thanks for researching this. A couple of questions: how high is that tire off the ground? Is the shock spacer touching cv boot on full droop?
Tire is 13” off the ground

CV boot makes contact with the spacer but only because it’s an aftermarket CV. The OEM boot on the other side does not come close
 
Had to replace a blown axle last minute yesterday...got in there to check out a torn boot only to figure out the retainer clip had mutilated itself.

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Used the worm-style clamps to reboot the inboard side of a spare OEM axle I had laying about.
 
What is the position of the two cam bolts on the LH side? (inner UCA) To increase caster, the rearmost cam would make the arm shorter and the front cam would make the arm longer. Looking from the side, this would bring the wheel closer to the firewall. Both cam bolts adjusted in unison and in the same direction would change the camber.

 
What is the position of the two cam bolts on the LH side? (inner UCA) To increase caster, the rearmost cam would make the arm shorter and the front cam would make the arm longer. Looking from the side, this would bring the wheel closer to the firewall. Both cam bolts adjusted in unison and in the same direction would change the camber.
This is maxed for caster- safe to assume that’s the default for all of these posts.

My most recent numbers confirm that nitro arms have good caster numbers but only if your knuckles aren’t bent (RH vs LH numbers show this clearly)

I replaced my RH spindle/knuckle assy. recently so I know it’s square. LH side is bent way out of whack. I couldn’t adjust it to fix caster any better than that. Good camber would’ve made caster out of spec…etc. Alignments 👍🏼
 
Curious how the cam bolt position compares L vs R...
 
Curious how the cam bolt position compares L vs R...
What do you mean? They’re maxed out. Top of the Spindle is pushed back towards the firewall as much as possible on both L and R

So “front” cams are rotated to push the arm out and “rear” cams are rotated to push the arms back in (unless i’m remembering it wrong. I am dyslexic and never remember which way is which)

Edit: my process for alignments:
1. Set ride height adjusting TBs
2. set caster using cams
3. set toe
 
Ok. Please report back when you get your new spindle and everything aligned.
 
From Adrian Kelly, One Stone owner.

I removed the magnets, drilled new holes for the metal door card bracket, and added 3M tape to the top of the door card.

Had to do a lot of dremel, fit, repeat to get a perfect fit.

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annnnnd saving this for later. Hopefully you get a little kickback, I used your code to purchase my set.

Adrian told me they are working on a 100 series set of armrests right now but realistically are still a good few months out.
 
Adrian told me they are working on a 100 series set of armrests right now but realistically are still a good few months out.
Oh that's good news. I'll definitely be curious to see those. There have been a lot of interested parties....
 
Some random goodies. Customer gave me some hand-me-down ASAP flaps. We’ll see how they go.

Ironman honored their 3-year warranty since I blew up one of their Foam Cell Pros within that 3-year period from purchase. Apparently it’s the first time they’ve ever seen that happen in the US.

Also designed a propane mount for my dissent rear tire carrier swingout. Hassle free with a quick release clamp for easy fill.

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This weekend, Lee and I are hosting a trail cleanup in north GA. Registration is FREE, all Cruisers are welcome

 
Some random goodies. Customer gave me some hand-me-down ASAP flaps. We’ll see how they go.

Ironman honored their 3-year warranty since I blew up one of their Foam Cell Pros within that 3-year period from purchase. Apparently it’s the first time they’ve ever seen that happen in the US.

Also designed a propane mount for my dissent rear tire carrier swingout. Hassle free with a quick release clamp for easy fill.

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is that a 10#er?

I'm gunning for a 20# tank mount. thinking under the table option on the non-tire side swing out. Reason for the 20#: if heading out for 1+ week in winter (SoCal version), it should run tent heater/fire pit for the duration. happy wife = happy copilot.
 

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