Parking brake? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Poser
- Start date
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Cruiser804
SILVER Star
I used this post also
, but found I needed/wanted to replace a few more parts including the springs and pins and the hardware the connects the RH and LH bellcrank.
These are for a 96 80 so double check with Dan. Here are the PN's.
2 90213-07010 C-washer shoe
2 90468-03006 clip cable to bellcrank
2 90240-08042 Pin cable to bellcrank
2 90468-14033 lock key cable to belcrank
2 90504-14002 Shoe strut spring
2 90506-12029 Tension spring #1
2 90506-12068 Tension spring #3
2 90507-20016 (90905-A6001) tension spring #2
2 90507-23014 tension spring #2
4 90501-16053 Spring - compression 2/side
2 47447-50010 Spring hold down pin
2 47447-30020 Spring hold down pin
2 90506-20033 Bellcrank return spring LH/RH
, but found I needed/wanted to replace a few more parts including the springs and pins and the hardware the connects the RH and LH bellcrank. These are for a 96 80 so double check with Dan. Here are the PN's.
2 90213-07010 C-washer shoe
2 90468-03006 clip cable to bellcrank
2 90240-08042 Pin cable to bellcrank
2 90468-14033 lock key cable to belcrank
2 90504-14002 Shoe strut spring
2 90506-12029 Tension spring #1
2 90506-12068 Tension spring #3
2 90507-20016 (90905-A6001) tension spring #2
2 90507-23014 tension spring #2
4 90501-16053 Spring - compression 2/side
2 47447-50010 Spring hold down pin
2 47447-30020 Spring hold down pin
2 90506-20033 Bellcrank return spring LH/RH
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well i just finished putting together my parking brakes. thanks for the pics poser. starting with no parking brakes and not knowing what they look like assembled, your pics definitely helped ALOT more than the FSM sure did!
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Excellent write up!
A few more pictures but the ones documented already are much more insightful.
Bell Crank Change
A few more pictures but the ones documented already are much more insightful.
Bell Crank Change
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iptman
SILVER Star
Thanks Poser. Finished this project this past weekend. Steel arms inside aluminum brackets 
were totally seized. The only thing I botched was the small/skinny spring at the bottom of the shoes goes on the inside not the outside. Luckily I was able to hook it up behind the shoes without having to remove the shoes and retaining clips/springs. Thanks to CruiserDan for supplying everything I needed and nothing I didn't. I replaced the rear pads while was in there too.
-Patrick
were totally seized. The only thing I botched was the small/skinny spring at the bottom of the shoes goes on the inside not the outside. Luckily I was able to hook it up behind the shoes without having to remove the shoes and retaining clips/springs. Thanks to CruiserDan for supplying everything I needed and nothing I didn't. I replaced the rear pads while was in there too.-Patrick
Ever since I bought my rig, the e-brake never really worked well. After reading this thread I decided to tackle the problem. I thought I'd throw up my notes.
'93 w/ 170k miles. Montana-Washington street use most of its life. Trail use the last 2 years.
Inspection:
1) Before I ordered parts, I figured a thorough inspection was due.
2) Pivot arms on back of brake were free moving and appeared rust free.
3) Confirmed that handle did pull on both pivot arms
4) Removed wheels
5) Hubs rotatable with or without e-brake applied
6) Removed brake caliper
7) Removed hub
8) No visible rust. ~1/8" of pad remaining. Lots of mud & dirt.
9) Cleaned everything with compressed air
10) Sprayed a little white lithium grease on moving parts
11) Reassembled
Adjusting:
Note: I found the FSM to be extremely lacking in this area
1) Tightened 2 lug nuts on the rotor
2) Spun adjusting wheel until difficult to rotate (rotor locked in place)
3) Spun adjusting wheel a little until rotor could be spun by hand
Results:
1hr and $0 spent. E-brake is now able to lock up the tires at 25mph roll. Before it wouldn't even hold on a small incline.
Thanks OP for the valuable info and pics!
Side Note: My rear rotor vents were fairly packed with mud and misc trail debris. Should run cooler now.
'93 w/ 170k miles. Montana-Washington street use most of its life. Trail use the last 2 years.
Inspection:
1) Before I ordered parts, I figured a thorough inspection was due.
2) Pivot arms on back of brake were free moving and appeared rust free.
3) Confirmed that handle did pull on both pivot arms
4) Removed wheels
5) Hubs rotatable with or without e-brake applied
6) Removed brake caliper
7) Removed hub
8) No visible rust. ~1/8" of pad remaining. Lots of mud & dirt.
9) Cleaned everything with compressed air
10) Sprayed a little white lithium grease on moving parts
11) Reassembled
Adjusting:
Note: I found the FSM to be extremely lacking in this area
1) Tightened 2 lug nuts on the rotor
2) Spun adjusting wheel until difficult to rotate (rotor locked in place)
3) Spun adjusting wheel a little until rotor could be spun by hand
Results:
1hr and $0 spent. E-brake is now able to lock up the tires at 25mph roll. Before it wouldn't even hold on a small incline.
Thanks OP for the valuable info and pics!
Side Note: My rear rotor vents were fairly packed with mud and misc trail debris. Should run cooler now.
Thank you for posting up this DETAILED information and pics. I'll be looking at mine soon and this post will be helpful in determining the root cause of the E-Brake not functioning.
Great write up! I'm usually pretty good at mechanical repairs, but reading write ups like this usually makes me look smarter to my wife than I actually am.
Any way to inspect the pads or hardware without pulling the rotors?
The shop where I wrench is a good hour each way. With 245k on the clock, I'm thinking maybe I should just buy the pads and replace them while I'm in there.
The shop where I wrench is a good hour each way. With 245k on the clock, I'm thinking maybe I should just buy the pads and replace them while I'm in there.
I'll be getting after these repairs this weekend. Thanks for a great write up. I surely will be referencing the photos while the wrench is in hand.
My interaction with CruiserParts has been disappointing to say the very least. I canceled my order and am currently waiting on a full refund. Anyone know of a reputable, reliable vendor for these parking brake parts?
Jay
Jay
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Has anyone gotten this assembly to really be all that good? I kinda feel like for the emotional capital alone, this probably might not be worth it. All that work to get into the rear wheels and then get the cables to work right against the pull of the lever? That seems like a lot more effort than just tossing a rubber wheel chock in the truck and letting the truck rest the transmission. These trannys don't seem to wear out and they don't seem to mind holding in gear either.
If I can do a few burnouts with the kit, it might be worth it.
If I can do a few burnouts with the kit, it might be worth it.
in Virginia, you must have a parking brake to pass inspection. Although I can get it passed, wink wink, I would rather have a parking brake that works. Jay
Just failed my inspection due to the parking brake, thread is very helpful.
This post has been extremely helpful as I will be re-building my parking brake due to the same issues seen on here but I have a question as to parts. Looking for the part number(s) for these bolts that attach the mounting block. I've investigated and looked on different part sites but haven't been able to identify them specifically, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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+1 McGeorge, even shipped across country ended up cheaper, including an OEM Tailpipe. So I usually start there and then the usual suspects.
