Panhard adjusting
- Thread starter T Y L E R
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I think that both Slee and Hannas sliders attach just behind the original leading arm mount with U-Bolts. If I'm correct they won't be an option with that lift setup.
Not sure if you can make it out but here is a pic off of Hanna's site. You'll see where the front attachment arm travels under the cats and up to the frame. On the drivers side that same attachment arm is held in place with a U-Bolt. WIth the drop bracket in place the U-bolt no workie.
Not sure if you can make it out but here is a pic off of Hanna's site. You'll see where the front attachment arm travels under the cats and up to the frame. On the drivers side that same attachment arm is held in place with a U-Bolt. WIth the drop bracket in place the U-bolt no workie.
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Here is a crazy thought
Slee 6"coils, his front adjustable coil mounts set at 2" and Slee's front contol arms with MAF's drop brackets and OME caster bushings if needed to address any caster issues. MAF's front panhard drop bracket combined with Slee's weld in joints to center the front axle. 8" of lift.
In the rear, Slee's 6" coils with 1.5 " coil spacers, combine MAF's trackbar drop brackets with Slee's weld in joint to center the axle under the vehicle and weld in upper control arm joints to get the pinion angle set correctly. I would at a minimum weld all the brakets after they are bolted in for the added strength. 7.5 " of lift.
Of course get longer brake lines, longer shocks or drop the front mount, sway bar spacers etc, etc....
Bolt on those new 37" 13.50 sneakers and hit the trails.
I bought a weld on mount to drop the mounting point of rear of the front control arms from Downey before I decided to do it right and go with Slee's custom arms. The MAF products look much stronger and better engineered.
Will these be available only in a kit form or will individual components be available?
Slee 6"coils, his front adjustable coil mounts set at 2" and Slee's front contol arms with MAF's drop brackets and OME caster bushings if needed to address any caster issues. MAF's front panhard drop bracket combined with Slee's weld in joints to center the front axle. 8" of lift.
In the rear, Slee's 6" coils with 1.5 " coil spacers, combine MAF's trackbar drop brackets with Slee's weld in joint to center the axle under the vehicle and weld in upper control arm joints to get the pinion angle set correctly. I would at a minimum weld all the brakets after they are bolted in for the added strength. 7.5 " of lift.
Of course get longer brake lines, longer shocks or drop the front mount, sway bar spacers etc, etc....
Bolt on those new 37" 13.50 sneakers and hit the trails.
I bought a weld on mount to drop the mounting point of rear of the front control arms from Downey before I decided to do it right and go with Slee's custom arms. The MAF products look much stronger and better engineered.
Will these be available only in a kit form or will individual components be available?
A quick read on panhard bars...
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml
By only moving the rear bar, the front/rear balance of the truck could be upset. I blindly went on adjusting the height of the rear bar on my 4-Runner w/o realizing undesired actions may result. I could be reading some things improperly, but it would appear better to raise the point of attachment on the axle, rather than drop the frame mount. Ideally both bars should be raised, but that would involve mods to raise the steering arm to work properly on the front.
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml
By only moving the rear bar, the front/rear balance of the truck could be upset. I blindly went on adjusting the height of the rear bar on my 4-Runner w/o realizing undesired actions may result. I could be reading some things improperly, but it would appear better to raise the point of attachment on the axle, rather than drop the frame mount. Ideally both bars should be raised, but that would involve mods to raise the steering arm to work properly on the front.
MSGGrunt said:
They will be sold mainly in a kit, but of course we will sell the pieces seperate too. We are going to have custom drop brackets for everything, along with custom springs, shocks ......etc.
landtank said:
Not in the way of our sliders, which weld to the frame. I can understand how some people dont want to do this, but we tend to overbuild our 4+ products a bit.
Darwood said:
Yes they are
Steve-O said:
IMHO you guys tend to build/sell to exclude. Always with having you or one of your shops doing the install. I have bought my OME suspension and Kaymar bumper from you but doesn't seem likely any of your 4+ line. Which is a shame as my money is as green as anyone else's.
Sliders are my next purchse and I don't see anything swaying me from Hanna's unless Slee put a skid plate for the cats on his by then. Admittedly he has some time.
T Y L E R said:WOW !
Phil , you build those machines ? Or what ?
TY
I wish….Cad design by Mopar built by Curt Leduc.
Steve-O said:
It's been discussed here before, but I'm not sure welding the sliders to the frame is considered "overbuilt".
It's just another way to skin a cat, as bolted on sliders work flawlessly as well.
Nice stuff, nonetheless, but I agree with landtank's take on your 4+ product's exclusion through design and sales.
shocker said:
Well I will definately take note of that, but honestly it has never been our intention. For reference, we are working on making a shipable version of the 4+ rear bumper as seen in those pictures. We are also working on shipping out the lift kits too. I dont think there is one part other than that bumper that requires us to install it exclusively. Of course we reccomend professional installation, but what company wouldnt? With the rock sliders, we feel that welding the sliders to the frame works best for moderate to heavy off-road. That may not be for everyone and thats totally cool.
Steve, got to agree with some of the above.
When I looked at the photos of your dropdown brackets, I thought to myself "all right, yes sireee, this looks like something I gotta have....!" but then as soon as it sunk in that bolt-on sliders would not be possible, I went "oh oh, too bad...".
May I chime in with the notion that it would be great if your lift kit would be compatible with existing bolt-on sliders? You'd greatly increase the sales I think!
thanks for considering this.
Eric
When I looked at the photos of your dropdown brackets, I thought to myself "all right, yes sireee, this looks like something I gotta have....!" but then as soon as it sunk in that bolt-on sliders would not be possible, I went "oh oh, too bad...".
May I chime in with the notion that it would be great if your lift kit would be compatible with existing bolt-on sliders? You'd greatly increase the sales I think!
thanks for considering this.
Eric
Lowering brackets also lower all of the contact points and reduce breakover angles. There's plenty of downsides to MAF's design just as there are many benefits. Wait for the pricing to decide if you think longer arms or full-on custom is the way to go. I don't mean to bust on MAF, I commend them for doing R & D and marketing a product that will likely sell less than 100 units. But as some point, like when you're considering more than 6" of suspension lift on these trucks, you have to consider going custom one-off for what it is you want. It's like the old addage that can also apply to just purchasing a bunch of bolt-on crap and calling it done, "Real trucks are built not bought."
e9999 said:
Hey now, no one ever said that they would not fit. But I am not sure if they will fit. No cruisers here have any bolt-on sliders. It is something I will definately take into consideration, but it is also hard to make somethign that will work with everything out there. Some people make sliders in their backyard..... and most companies build products they feel will work best. I think Christo and Hanna should make their sliders so our brackets will fit
Only kidding, I will talk with the fabricator for 4+ and see what we can come up with.
We actually made those style brackets last year, then the slider issue came up, and by the time the brackets were redesigned, the cost was so close to a set of bare arms, that it was not worth pursuing further. The caster plates are now our 'inexpensive way' to correct caster for higher lifts.
The clown has pointed out what I was thinking. I have spanked my arm brackets several times on big rocks and moving them down, while being a great castor master 
D ) would cause at least me to bash them more often and much more effectively....
D ) would cause at least me to bash them more often and much more effectively....
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I just installed the caster plates last weekend. It's a great mod for the $100 it costs. Install is pretty simple but requires the existing mount be modified with an angle grinder. Since I had never done it, it was grind, test, grind test etc. Probably 1 hour of work over all. It changes the driving experience completely. I think as you make progressive mods you don't notice the steering getting progressively light, but when you suddenly set everything right, it's like having your new truck back. I'll let you know after Cruise Moab what I really think! I do see the Slee leading arms in my future when I install the 6 inch lift.
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Drew , how much lift do you have now ? Also , did Christo provide a writeup with your plates ? Doing them in a few days also .. just curious . You can PM me with your experiences doing the plates . It might help me out this weekend .
Thanx ,
TY
Thanx ,
TY
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
My current lift is J springs and 1 inch spacer up front, standard J springs in the rear. I have an ARB bull bar and M12000 winch in front, and a slee bumper/tirecarrier in the rear. I also travel with a fridge and a heavy tool box and the truck sits level. I did the pan hard mod as well-don't over look that as it makes a big difference.
There are no real instructions but I talked to Ben and Christo before I did it. I took both arms off at once which Ben did not reccomend but it was no big deal to get them back on. You do have to rotate the axle down as you install the axle end of the leading arm, I used a small jack jacking between the axle and frame. I worked like a charm.
There are no real instructions but I talked to Ben and Christo before I did it. I took both arms off at once which Ben did not reccomend but it was no big deal to get them back on. You do have to rotate the axle down as you install the axle end of the leading arm, I used a small jack jacking between the axle and frame. I worked like a charm.