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All the parts I installed are OEM or denso. Fan clutch is fine it’s stiff as when I turn car off can’t spin it easily.
I finally bought a proper device to clean the radiator fins but my passenger side manifold is off now so I’ll wait til that’s done to clean it. I did notice a small difference after I sprayed off the transmission cooler fins with a garden hose so I’m hoping this makes a bigger difference using the new fancy tool. I always just used a hose but am willing to try this in hopes it fixes my hot temps.
Shouldn’t have used SEEMS , def no air in system. I burped it again and have been driving with heater on .
I finally bought a proper device to clean the radiator fins but my passenger side manifold is off now so I’ll wait til that’s done to clean it. I did notice a small difference after I sprayed off the transmission cooler fins with a garden hose so I’m hoping this makes a bigger difference using the new fancy tool. I always just used a hose but am willing to try this in hopes it fixes my hot temps.
Shouldn’t have used SEEMS , def no air in system. I burped it again and have been driving with heater on .
OEM?
"seem" Very easy to determine.
Park overnight, after reaching operating temp and ~3K RPM for ~3 minutes or more. Park on level ground or better yet, with front end higher than rear. This places radiator cap at high point. Air travels to high point!
In the morning, after engine has cool down for ~8 hours. Remove rad cap, before sun-up. Coolant should be to the very top of radiator. No air whatsoever.
That is to hot ECT and ATF.
I just drove my 03LX w/323K miles from Den on I-70 west over the continental divide 252 mile, to GJ in the AM. Did not shut off engine the whole way. Running long distances at speeds of ~82 MPH where I could (75MPH speed limit). Other times crawling along for the many road construction projects. Actually pushed it very hard for a few minutes hitting 110 MPH. Climbing multi pass from 1 mile high (Denver) to 2 mile altitude (Eisenhower & Vail passes). OAT range was 64f to 74f.
ECT never over 187f, ATF temp never over 165f.
I'll note I shift a lot. You never see me brake, except emergency running the Rocky Mountains. Point, I don't baby the engine or AT, I push them to their limits.
View attachment 4165904
OEM?
Normal
ATF should be at ~160F, engine idling, pull AT dipstick. It should read in HOT range. Best if at or tad above high hot notch.
Again. All 3 radiators fins must be clean.
I drove an 06LC back from GJ to Den. OAT range 91f to 69F. It ran around 194 to 200F 06 - 07 do run hotter, with their different fan blade & fan clutch. It would go to 210F with AC on, which it should not go over ~199F. I send the morning washing bugs and Moab dust from its radiators.
I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added radiator cap and thermostat to job, as best practice.
Got me to thinking about the radiators I've been replacing. All have debris built up on lower third.
This one hand some extra grasses along with general clogging on lower third.
Over the years/miles debit builds up in condenser and...
