Ouch!!!!

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I think this is starting to sound more and more like a wiring harness issue. Check the above mentioned wiring harness for an exposed wire.

I think T Y L E R had almost the exact same experience in stalling and his was a wiring harness issue.
 
ductape said:
The tube seals job is in fact the front axle service, but they added axle bushings to be replaced at $130 each x2 in their quote.
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Is this a reference to the brash bushings in the spindles? I can't think of any other bushings in the front axle, especially ones that cost that much. If so there is no way they could know those need replacing without actually looking at them, or loud noises from that area.
 
back from the dealer again.

7.5 hours of labor to find the problem...

finally, the culprit was the rotor, was getting a spark at first, but not the other times, tried again, would work on and off...

they finally charged me 1.5 hour and $15 for the rotor...

works fine now, will check again tonight...

thanks for your help

JF
 
ductape said:
back from the dealer again.

7.5 hours of labor to find the problem...

finally, the culprit was the rotor, was getting a spark at first, but not the other times, tried again, would work on and off...

they finally charged me 1.5 hour and $15 for the rotor...

works fine now, will check again tonight...

thanks for your help

JF
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That would be a clue not to take it there next time. They should start with the simple, cheap, quick to check, items like cap, rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs... :doh:
Glad to hear they did finally fix it and didn't charge you for the full hours worked.
 
ed97fzj80 said:
The ever-increasing price quotes aren't inpiring a lot of confidence. Is there anyone else that can work on Toyotas nearby to give a second opinion?
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I was stuck in LA all weekend and would have jumped at the chance to help out. I'll be up in N. Hollywood tomorrow but not sure if it's the whole day or not. How far from there are you? And with this traffic how long a drive?
 
firetruck41 said:
That would be a clue not to take it there next time. They should start with the simple, cheap, quick to check, items like cap, rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs... :doh:
Glad to hear they did finally fix it and didn't charge you for the full hours worked.
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They replaced the plugs last week but the problem was still there.

They checked for fuel and for a spark, ok, checked everything else, wiring harness, EGR, EFI, nothing and then came back to step one to find out that the rotor was burned out, but was still sparking, the only thing is it was not sparking all the time...
 
Glad you got it running again.

What's the story with the other stuff they listed you needed to do?
 
Hi, I drove on and off for 3 hours again tonight and no problem at all, back to normal. I'm glad it was only the rotor... I still don't know why they didn't try to change the cap and rotor or the wiring before, but then again, they worked on it last Friday and they changed the plugs because the guy said they were flooded, didn't say if they were worn out at a point where it wouldn't start.

His thought was that if he gets a spark, then the rotor is working fine, I guess that is where he made a mistake. At least I am not the one who had to pay for all of it.

For the rest, I didn't have the time to ask them because the guy was too busy working to find the problem, I will stop by again tomorrow. And I will ask for a second opinion in another shop, there is only one mechanic that I trust now.

The problem here is that we don't have any Lexus dealer up north and the 80 series was never sold in Canada so the mechanics in town have seen 5-6 units and that is it... they don't know our trucks at all.

will keep you guys posted.

JF
 
I bought it last August and did the regular maintenance so far, but not all the PM stuff yet. I decided to wait one winter to see what would hold up or not...

I guess the rotor was working fine when they checked it in December, and it was working fine still until this happened. Even when they found the problem, it was sparking, but on an intermittent basis...

As for the other Yukoner asking, I usually end up going to see Mark at Yukon Tire Mech. for his input but if I have some time to get the work done I go see a guy I know who worked on a bunch a Cruisers, is cheap, works well, but is busy and does it after work and on the week ends kind of thing.

I don't trust the dealer too much, never did. On a different matter they just advertised the FJ in today's paper, I don't know if they got one in yet... it would be pretty quick for Whitehorse...

So, I got a second opinion on the leaks thing, didn't say anything about the previous one.

front crank seal leaking (medium)
possible oil level sensor (front of oil pan leak) do crank seal first and recheck
valve cover gasket leak (medium)
rear main seal leak (small)
p.steering pump rear seal/o-ring leak (small)
front diff pinion seal leak (medium)
deposits on right side of HG looks like coolant loss (traces)

so his recommendation was to do the valve cover and front crank seal first then reassess.

any thoughts, Ken, you were wondering about the pinion seal leak, is this a big job?

JF
 
Is it leaking enough that you care? A leak doesn't usually mean that anything is, or will go, wrong mechanically.
 
ductape said:
any thoughts, Ken, you were wondering about the pinion seal leak, is this a big job?

JF
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I have not done it, but would expect it to be a big job that would be difficult for a 1 :banana: mechanic. Others will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you will have to remove the 3rd member (Not to hard), tear down the front diff (Med) replace seals (Not too hard) and put the diff back together (med-hard). Putting the diff back together takes additional skills with a press and getting the pre-load right.

However,
if at any time you plan on re-gearing, it would be almost the same job to the front diff..
 
many have replaced the seal on the truck, a much shorter process, but leads to the question of weather you will further crush the crush sleve on reinstalation chaning the relationship between the ring and pinion.

if I ever have my 3eds out for work I will replace the scush sleve with a solid shimmed sleves for a repeatable stop.
 
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