I have the stock height suspesion on my wifes80 and it rides great. Not floating all over the road like the stock stuff it a little hard around town but nothing that would change my mind about installing it.Just my OP
Opinions on OME "Low Height" suspension kit from CruiserOutfitters?
- Thread starter Timpanogos Slim
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mattafact said:
Hey Matt! I got Bilsteins on my rig. About to put on ome 861/862 springs and 30mm spacers. Would u mind posting a photo of yours? I am curious how one will sit with a heavy rear bumper like the one from Sean.
I figured I would just add to this thread rather than starting a new one . . .
I installed the 861/862 springs that I had bought from Kurt. I had relatively new OEM shocks, so I only installed the springs. I am very happy with the result.
It went pretty quick once I gave up on using spring compressors and took everybody's advice to use the bottle jack between the axle and frame.
I didn't take measurements, but I gained about an inch over my 170K OEM springs. The difference in height is subtle enough I don't think anybody but an owner would notice.
The ride is much improved. The springs are a bit firmer, but I wouldn't call them the least bit harsh. The ride is very similar to the OEMs. Where I think it really shines is in the cornering. It is much more controlled and level through the turns. The difference isn't revolutionary, but it is clearly better.
I have only driven it on the road, so I can't give an off road impression, although I have to think it will be better than my old springs.
For about $380 shipped, I think it was a worthy upgrade. I really can't see spending the money for the OME shocks when the cheap OEM shocks work so well. I actually had the Bilsteins and went back to OEM previously. That was with the old springs, however, and I am curious how well the Bilsteins would do with the new springs.
I installed the 861/862 springs that I had bought from Kurt. I had relatively new OEM shocks, so I only installed the springs. I am very happy with the result.
It went pretty quick once I gave up on using spring compressors and took everybody's advice to use the bottle jack between the axle and frame.
I didn't take measurements, but I gained about an inch over my 170K OEM springs. The difference in height is subtle enough I don't think anybody but an owner would notice.
The ride is much improved. The springs are a bit firmer, but I wouldn't call them the least bit harsh. The ride is very similar to the OEMs. Where I think it really shines is in the cornering. It is much more controlled and level through the turns. The difference isn't revolutionary, but it is clearly better.
I have only driven it on the road, so I can't give an off road impression, although I have to think it will be better than my old springs.
For about $380 shipped, I think it was a worthy upgrade. I really can't see spending the money for the OME shocks when the cheap OEM shocks work so well. I actually had the Bilsteins and went back to OEM previously. That was with the old springs, however, and I am curious how well the Bilsteins would do with the new springs.
OME choice - stock height or 2.5"
Hello All,
Thread has been dormant for a while but thought I'd check if anyone has any updates.
I'm deciding whether to get OME stock height or 2.5". Practical part of me thinks the stock better for my mostly DD '96 FZJ80, but the other side says what the heck I've got an off road vehicle why not spend practically same amount on 2.5" since I'm already on 33s.
Any opinions would be appreciated. Pictures as well since I'm also concerned with stance.
Attached a picture of my 80 on stock springs, has Bilsteins in back which I don't think I can appreciate since the stock springs are mush. I like the way the 285s fill the wheel wells, so might lean towards stock height..
Enjoyed the thread so far..
James
Hello All,
Thread has been dormant for a while but thought I'd check if anyone has any updates.
I'm deciding whether to get OME stock height or 2.5". Practical part of me thinks the stock better for my mostly DD '96 FZJ80, but the other side says what the heck I've got an off road vehicle why not spend practically same amount on 2.5" since I'm already on 33s.
Any opinions would be appreciated. Pictures as well since I'm also concerned with stance.
Attached a picture of my 80 on stock springs, has Bilsteins in back which I don't think I can appreciate since the stock springs are mush. I like the way the 285s fill the wheel wells, so might lean towards stock height..
Enjoyed the thread so far..
James
James,
A couple of thoughts...
33s will run just fine on the OME stock height suspension. In fact, you could run them on that tired old OEM suspension. So don't lift to fit them, they already fit.
I see you're in the NYC area and have a roof rack. You will be at or over 6'6" on 33s with a 2.5 lift. I only visit the big city from time to time, so you'll know much better than I how much that might limit places to park. That was a factor here because of our garage's 6'6" open door height. I could've squeezed in, because we don't have a rack, but I wanted enough slack to not need to worry about it and had no plans for anything larger than 33s.
Finally, not having to sweat caster correction saves a lot of effort and/or cost and you're almost certain to need it with the 2.5 and most unlikely to need it at stock height.
I'd go with the 861/862 stock height coils if it was my truck.
A couple of thoughts...
33s will run just fine on the OME stock height suspension. In fact, you could run them on that tired old OEM suspension. So don't lift to fit them, they already fit.
I see you're in the NYC area and have a roof rack. You will be at or over 6'6" on 33s with a 2.5 lift. I only visit the big city from time to time, so you'll know much better than I how much that might limit places to park. That was a factor here because of our garage's 6'6" open door height. I could've squeezed in, because we don't have a rack, but I wanted enough slack to not need to worry about it and had no plans for anything larger than 33s.
Finally, not having to sweat caster correction saves a lot of effort and/or cost and you're almost certain to need it with the 2.5 and most unlikely to need it at stock height.
I'd go with the 861/862 stock height coils if it was my truck.
Greentruck thanks for your input. That makes a lot of sense. And since I'm a city dweller that's another thing to consider - you're the first person to point out the potential height issue - though we've got an abundance of garages with ample height. I'm prob going to nix the stock rack since the truck is no longer in nice-n-dry Albuquerque and we've had such nasty weather I'm worried about those holes in my roof.
Going to think it over some more. Leaning toward stock height, may keep Bilsteins and get a set for the front, but still considering some extra clearance.
What is involved in changing springs I've never done it and can't seem to find anything good on YouTube? If it's a bigger, or expensive job I might go for 2.5" since I have a feeling I'll end up there eventually.
Thanks again - Mud reading / posting is beginning to replace TV watching this winter.
Best,
James
Albuquerque to NYC -- now that's some culture shock, unless you're moving back to the city
The stock height avoids needing to deal with caster correction. It's basic blacksmithing to do that, which involve pressing out the trailing arm bushings and installing "corrective" bushings. There are other methods.
You can see what's involved near the end of the excellent Slee website instructions for the OME kits:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_ome.htm
To do the stock height kit is a long afternoon, with proper jacks and stand, tools, and everything going right. A big part of the latter is the prep work of soaking all necessary fasteners with penetrating lube. I had no problems
To do the 2.5 inch would be a lot like all day, with several hours devoted to dealing with caster correction
stock height feedback
I just installed the stock height springs from OME. I notice a slight lift in the front but otherwise it feels the same height. I do notice about a 1" taller than it used to be.
The driving experience is SOOO much smoother.
I accidentally put the springs on the wrong side so I had a 1/2 day experience of installing them, then a 3 hours experience on a lift to swap them left to right.
Using the bottle jack to get clearance between the axle and frame is a definite advantage in either arrangement.
I chose the stock height because I did not want to adjust caster, I need it to be highway gas mileage friendly, and my wife and kids need to be able to get in on a regular basis.
I wish I could have the rugged looks, but I can't logically justify the tradeoffs. (Its a concrete cruiser.)
I just installed the stock height springs from OME. I notice a slight lift in the front but otherwise it feels the same height. I do notice about a 1" taller than it used to be.
The driving experience is SOOO much smoother.
I accidentally put the springs on the wrong side so I had a 1/2 day experience of installing them, then a 3 hours experience on a lift to swap them left to right.
Using the bottle jack to get clearance between the axle and frame is a definite advantage in either arrangement.
I chose the stock height because I did not want to adjust caster, I need it to be highway gas mileage friendly, and my wife and kids need to be able to get in on a regular basis.
I wish I could have the rugged looks, but I can't logically justify the tradeoffs. (Its a concrete cruiser.)
- Thread starter
- #49
Wrong side in what sense? I had heard that since australia is right-hand drive they should be swapped left-right for level stance. But i could be confused.
OME shocks for multiple springs
About to pick up an OME stock height set after mulling this over. One last question - from what I gather the shocks that come with the stock height and 2.5" lifts are the same. Are they? Can I go with stock and later if I switch to 2.5" spring the shocks can stay put?
I've been on the fence between the two, curious what 2.5" more lift would be like but think stock is really more practical for me and my mostly DD wheel choices and stock gearing.
Thanks,
J
About to pick up an OME stock height set after mulling this over. One last question - from what I gather the shocks that come with the stock height and 2.5" lifts are the same. Are they? Can I go with stock and later if I switch to 2.5" spring the shocks can stay put?
I've been on the fence between the two, curious what 2.5" more lift would be like but think stock is really more practical for me and my mostly DD wheel choices and stock gearing.
Thanks,
J
I will be going to the 861/862 combo very soon & will add 30mm spacers at all corners.
I currently have OME mediums 851+25mm/860.
Why, you ask?
In my opinion the mediums are to soft.
I have been looking for a stiffer spring than my 860s, but I don't want the 1" of lift the 863s offer along with the stronger rate of 250 lb.
On the spec chart the 862s have a dual rate of 170/260 lbs. That's actually a stronger rate than 863s.
bla, bla, bla... sometimes I even bore my self with the details.
I just want to convey that a OME stock height springs can be seen as a true 50mm lift by just adding a set of 30mm spring spacers. A softer stock ride, but also have the strength for heavier loads. That is what I would say is the best of both worlds.
Just to add... if you allready have a set of 861/862 springs & looking to go to a taller lift, then just add the 30mm spacers rather than purchasing 4 new springs.
I currently have OME mediums 851+25mm/860.
Why, you ask?
In my opinion the mediums are to soft.
I have been looking for a stiffer spring than my 860s, but I don't want the 1" of lift the 863s offer along with the stronger rate of 250 lb.
On the spec chart the 862s have a dual rate of 170/260 lbs. That's actually a stronger rate than 863s.
bla, bla, bla... sometimes I even bore my self with the details.
I just want to convey that a OME stock height springs can be seen as a true 50mm lift by just adding a set of 30mm spring spacers. A softer stock ride, but also have the strength for heavier loads. That is what I would say is the best of both worlds.
Just to add... if you allready have a set of 861/862 springs & looking to go to a taller lift, then just add the 30mm spacers rather than purchasing 4 new springs.
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Wow you have exactly what i have. I had 861/862 and needed a little more height after armor. I added 30mm spacers all round AND 10mm on a few corners to level it. Along with Fox 2.0 i could not be happier. I consider doing the 850/860 at times just to get rid of the spacers and "just because". Do you actually think the 861/862 have a better spring rate than the 850/860?
I would love a 4" lift and 35s, looks cool right? But i do a LOT of long distance cross country exploring. And this thing with a 2" lift, sliders, skid plate factory lockers and 33" will go some crazy places. So i am actually petty good with 33" and little lift.
lcgeek
Glad to meet you!
I just picked up a 97 with stock height OME. Rides real nice, not harsh, firm in the corners. I had a 2.5 OME medium on another truck before and this seems to feel about the same to me.
Where where you when I needed support for this out of the box idea, meaning not the normal thought for a lift spring idea.
Is there a 2" rear progressive or dual rate spring that actually works?
To comment on your staitments. I want what you have. With out getting back into all the rates etc.. the link above has all that.
I have been doing a lot of research & I'm pretty solid on this. The dual rate is the atractive quality of this spring. Most do not know of this dual rate business.
If they added one more turn & .5mm thicker it would be about 1" taller... but for now this spring with the spacer has the same free height as the J spring which means you can now run the OME L shocks.
Wild Eh?
Is the 861/862 the hidden jewel of OME?
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First of all i came into the 861/862 by chance wanting to avoid a tall lift. I didnt understand off road suspension and the value of free length or progressive springs. I come from a motorcycle road racing suspension back ground and constant rate springs are the way to go. So up until about a month ago i would have preferred a constant rate spring. I now know the value of free length. I actually wonder if i could have gone with the longer Fox shocks than the ones i have. But what is done is done.
I might have seen your post and not realized that i had anything to add. Sorry about that.
I will say that the springs/spacers and shocks i have now has enough down travel that when i lift the front end by the frame (installing springs) the drive shaft touches the front sway bar. I thought this was odd and shouldn't happen with the low lift i have. But i installed the spacers on the front sway bar and longer OEM brake lines anyway.
I might have seen your post and not realized that i had anything to add. Sorry about that.
I will say that the springs/spacers and shocks i have now has enough down travel that when i lift the front end by the frame (installing springs) the drive shaft touches the front sway bar. I thought this was odd and shouldn't happen with the low lift i have. But i installed the spacers on the front sway bar and longer OEM brake lines anyway.
well after having 3 lifted trucks ( 89 yota- 5" lift, SAS, 5:29's, quicklocks, marlin 4.7 tcase and a 8" lifted , 4:88's 98 silverado and the last one a 6" lifted 86 K20 open piped Diesel surburban ) ... I'm so over lifts ! sure you can put bigger tires , but then with that comes taller gearing , demanding a regear, etc.
So after having my lx450 for a month-ish ... ( bought for expedition style stuff [ finding the easier softer way to the trout streams ] , no "crawling" ) the Stock spring setup seems the ticket for me . I'm gonna go with the heavy/ med setup with a 10mm spacer for the front to be level .
Just took my saggin' lx to the Usal trail this week and it did fine , but bottomed out a few times from the bouncey worn out coils, it also sucks currently over mild bumps on the road.... at 170k ... it's long over due .... just waiting for "Cruiser" to get back to me with a set pay pal email and I'm getting the stock setup asap ! You can see the sag in this pic.
I know after reading here that some folks are saying the shocks that come with the kit are harsh ... to me this thing even with boucey springs is so much like a cadillac in the ride especially after the K20 and it's leafs , and Bilsteins... its ride was way more bumpy than these cush riding rigs , but I guess with its 8200lb weight was alot for those lifted springs to take ...
Here's the Burb ...hey it did get 21mpg though ... ha
So after having my lx450 for a month-ish ... ( bought for expedition style stuff [ finding the easier softer way to the trout streams ] , no "crawling" ) the Stock spring setup seems the ticket for me . I'm gonna go with the heavy/ med setup with a 10mm spacer for the front to be level .
Just took my saggin' lx to the Usal trail this week and it did fine , but bottomed out a few times from the bouncey worn out coils, it also sucks currently over mild bumps on the road.... at 170k ... it's long over due .... just waiting for "Cruiser" to get back to me with a set pay pal email and I'm getting the stock setup asap ! You can see the sag in this pic.
I know after reading here that some folks are saying the shocks that come with the kit are harsh ... to me this thing even with boucey springs is so much like a cadillac in the ride especially after the K20 and it's leafs , and Bilsteins... its ride was way more bumpy than these cush riding rigs , but I guess with its 8200lb weight was alot for those lifted springs to take ...
Here's the Burb ...hey it did get 21mpg though ... ha
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Just bought the Low height kit with "softer" shocks and 20 mm spacers for the front , this morning from Cruiser outfitters ...lookin forward to a better ride ...
I've searched the threads and read the suspension FAQ, but I still have two questions -- seems they'll fit In this thread well and might be helpful to other folks. Thanks in advance.
Set up for my questions --
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser (don't have possession of it yet)
118,000 miles
Going to have installed:
OME 2861 (.25 - .75 inch lift)
OME 2862 (.25 - .75 inch lift)
Bilsteins all around
OME steering damper
Cooper Discoverer A/T3 - 265/75R16 (maybe .75 inch larger circumference than stock 275/70R16)
- Daily driver, road trips, freeway, logging/mountain roads, snow, no crawling or real wheeling.
- Third row seats removed. Roof top tent and rack (125 pounds) and trailer hitch (47 pounds), both left on all year.
- For road trips, I'll attach a hitch rack (53 pounds) and haul two propane tanks (39 pounds and 10 pounds) in it, and haul a maximum of 350 pounds of additional gear.
- I assume I'm going to have some sagging in the back with the road trip load, which I don't mind if it isn't too bad. I don't mind a slight stink bug during daily driving/no road trip loads. I don't want a lift and all that entails.
My questions --
1. I assume I should have both sets of OME coils installed with the "A" coils on the driver (left) side. Is that correct? (I've read opinions about mixing the order of the "A" and "B" coils re which side.)
2. To offset my load during road trips, along with the new coils/shocks should I have installed 10mm coil spacers in the rear, or not? Would 20mm coil spacers in the rear be too much?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Set up for my questions --
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser (don't have possession of it yet)
118,000 miles
Going to have installed:
OME 2861 (.25 - .75 inch lift)
OME 2862 (.25 - .75 inch lift)
Bilsteins all around
OME steering damper
Cooper Discoverer A/T3 - 265/75R16 (maybe .75 inch larger circumference than stock 275/70R16)
- Daily driver, road trips, freeway, logging/mountain roads, snow, no crawling or real wheeling.
- Third row seats removed. Roof top tent and rack (125 pounds) and trailer hitch (47 pounds), both left on all year.
- For road trips, I'll attach a hitch rack (53 pounds) and haul two propane tanks (39 pounds and 10 pounds) in it, and haul a maximum of 350 pounds of additional gear.
- I assume I'm going to have some sagging in the back with the road trip load, which I don't mind if it isn't too bad. I don't mind a slight stink bug during daily driving/no road trip loads. I don't want a lift and all that entails.
My questions --
1. I assume I should have both sets of OME coils installed with the "A" coils on the driver (left) side. Is that correct? (I've read opinions about mixing the order of the "A" and "B" coils re which side.)
2. To offset my load during road trips, along with the new coils/shocks should I have installed 10mm coil spacers in the rear, or not? Would 20mm coil spacers in the rear be too much?
Thanks for any thoughts.
I've got a similar setup. I think you've got a good plan too. The "stock height" springs are firm. I wouldn't do any spacers. I load mine for Baja with five passengers, food, and a Rhodesian Ridgeback plus a rooftop cargo box. And then I bomb the Coco's Corner run at good speed. Gotta love the Land Cruiser.