Opinions on FJ43 Please (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 22, 2017
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Location
Charlotte, NC
Hey guys – I’ve been looking seriously at a 1978 FJ43 imported from Columbia to the US. Not fully restored, just something operational that can be worked on over time. Truck isn’t local but just had an inspection done at a cruiser shop and would really appreciate your thoughts on the report (see further below). What you would worry about, what you would fix (vs wait on). Main concern is the compression results, but honestly don’t know enough about these trucks to know how big of a concern it is. Shop said $5,500 to fix all this stuff (which isn’t in the budget…). Any insight appreciated. Thanks!



Compression (130,130,130,130,135,135)

Blinker not working on driver side rear(?), brakes dragging on driver side rear(2hr)

Side cover gasket seeping(4hr), fuel odor coming from sending unit(1.5h)

Rear door lock rivets coming out(?), choke cable broken(1h), only one speed on wipers(?)

Air filter dirty, anti-freeze is dirty, needs tune up(1.5), oil pan gasket seeping?(3.5)

Rear main seal seeping?(8h) Coolant bypass seeping at block, slight exhaust leak(6.5)

Rust under fuel tank, t-case fill plug rounded off, rust on driver side floor been painted over

Front drive shaft slip yoke has a lot of play(1h), holes in muffler, steering box seeping(3h)

Sway bar bushings bad(1h), suspension worn(6.5), inner axle seals leaking (4.5)

Front passenger wheel cylinder leaking(4h), front shoes 50%, rear shoes 50%

Locking hubs frozen(1.5), could use alignment, valve cover gasket seeping(1h), needs tires
 
Quite the list but any repair shop is going to find anything there is wrong something that jumps out is that is seems there is a lot of rust that could be causing a lot of these issues specifically some was painted over what else is hidden would be my question. Compression numbers look good but coolant being dirty is kind of broad what does that mean? Is is rust particles or oil? Without seeing it in person or someone else that is knowledgeable and not looking to make money on the deal I would pass. Anything coming form a third world country is always going to be a gamble mechanically and electrically they do what they need to do to keep things running. I have seen some crazy stuff and I am sure some other guys can chime in. Unless you are getting it for an amazing deal and don't mind putting in the work yourself pics of the affected areas will help with a better recommendation as well.
 
Buy it! We need pictures! See my comments below. I don't see any big issues but I am far from qualified to give unqualified advice.

1. Compression (130,130,130,130,135,135) - They are within 10% of each other so I say don't sweat it.

2. Blinker not working on driver side rear(?), brakes dragging on driver side rear(2hr) - Buy beer, pizza and appetizers and host a HAMOM

3. Side cover gasket seeping(4hr), fuel odor coming from sending unit(1.5h) - See # 2 above

4. Rear door lock rivets coming out(?), choke cable broken(1h), only one speed on wipers(?) - See # 2 & 3 above; Apply RainX to windshield at the HAMOM.

4. Air filter dirty, anti-freeze is dirty, needs tune up(1.5), oil pan gasket seeping?(3.5); See # 2, 3 & 4

5. Rear main seal seeping?(8h) Coolant bypass seeping at block, slight exhaust leak(6.5) My rear main seal has been leaking for 7 years and I've had an exhaust leak for at least half that time. Check the oil regularly and put cardboard beneath it when it's parked in the garage. The exhaust leak adds character. Fix the rear main seal if/when you have to do clutch work.

6. Rust under fuel tank, t-case fill plug rounded off, rust on driver side floor been painted over - Wire-wheel the area under the fuel tank and floor and check with Brad (aka @lowtops) on the repair with some POR 15. We can replace the fill plug at the HAMOM.

7. Front drive shaft slip yoke has a lot of play(1h), holes in muffler, steering box seeping(3h) - I've got a muffler guy in Fort Mill that does good work for a good price. Not sure about the other items. Possibly HAMOM or project for evenings after work.

8. Sway bar bushings bad(1h), suspension worn(6.5), inner axle seals leaking (4.5) - See # 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5. Knuckle jobs are messy and time consuming but can be done. I'd drive it for a short while before replacing the springs and bushings and deciding on a tire size (2.5" lift?)

9. Front passenger wheel cylinder leaking(4h), front shoes 50%, rear shoes 50% - See # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 8 above.

10. Locking hubs frozen(1.5), could use alignment, valve cover gasket seeping(1h), needs tires - Address hubs when doing the knuckle job. Do alignment after you put on lift and bigger tires. Valve cover gasket can be replaced on your own with ease or at the HAMOM.
 
We need some pics to be able to do a decent assessment. Lots of garbage trucks come into the US from Central and South America. Costa Rica has sent over some real junk. Be careful. Look for poor body work and bondo over rust. That said, if the problems listed are all there are, you can handle most of that yourself or with the help of the club locals.

I did not know FJ43's had sway bars? Interesting.
 
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Thank you ALL for the early feedback and support! I have asked for photos of the 'areas of concern' from the shop that did the inspection and will post upon receipt. With respect to the compression test, I have been 'told' that numbers need to between 140-160. If the test is sub 140 should I be concerned even though they are w/in 10% of each other (130/135)?

With respect to HAMOM....get ready.....
 
It is all a matter of how involved you want to get with a build. Odds are it will need more than what is already indicated. Even if it does not "need" some work, you'll "want" to do it. Figure out a rough budget, then double it and add for "while you're in there's" and you'll be close.

You only live once, go into it with your eyes wide open.
 
2F bottom ends are pretty robust and the rings stand up decently to wear. I'd wager that pulling the head and freshening it up will get you the compression numbers you are after. Big job but doable.
 
Lots of garbage trucks come into the US from South America. Costa Rica has sent over some real junk. Be careful. Look for poor body work and bondo over rust.

I should have included the same sentiment in my initial comments. Darin saw several trucks from Costa Rica and all were as Dave describes. If it has original paint, you should be able to see all the typical problem areas. If it has been repainted, I would suggest a neutral third party go over it with a magnet.

Please post pictures (the closer the better as even my truck looks good from 20 feet away) and a model year as we might be able to pick up on a few things that don't look quite right.
 
Is it a yellow one? Right hand drive from New Zealand with gold painted fuel rails? Run, forest, run!!
 
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Happy to talk / share more...please reply to me directly and can discuss off-line.

Appreciate the feedback.
 
Man that looks really sharp.

Not sure i could believe its original paint (i realize you never said it was, just per the discussion).

I assume its long distance and cant put eyes on it? What about another mudder thats not interested to avoid sniping.

I looked at a few from central america and all were ROUGH



Some of the labor hours look just a little high and descriptions vague but agree only half or less would need addressing right away.

Ex. Suspension worn. WTF?
And what does 6hrs include? Re arch and new bushings/shocks? Replace + material cost?

Thise are great pics but i can take pics of the good parts of my truck too ;)

Ask for the ugliest they can find.
 
It looks like the truck is in US and not Colombia, just from the pic backgrounds. Do you know where it is and if so, a local mud member could volunteer and take a look for you?
 
The truck was brought in from Colombia and is in the US currently. It is actually a fellow mud member selling the truck and I found the local cruiser shop (that inspected the truck) through their local group. The 'seller' has been open and honest with me the entire time. I was hoping my 'local' group (you guys/gals) would help keep me honest and ensure I was not missing anything major! You all have been GREAT and welcome the continued dialogue......thank you!

As @NCFJ states........"You only live once, go into it with your eyes wide open."

 
That truck has had a recent re-spray. Shift boot, door latch, cowl drains and tire carrier bumper show it pretty clearly. Rear sill has been monkeyed with. Look for bondo. Radiator looks like it has been patched up A LOT. It's missing the carb heat shield. PS rear door hinges don't look right to me but not sure. Don't care what the "Cruiser Shop" says, there is no sway bar on this truck. You're going to get pretty cold in the winter here in Charlotte with no heat (you could probably source a heater and all the lines and ducts here). Drum brakes suck. You'll hate them. I was hoping for a full floater out back but no dice. I've seen much worse trucks from South America but this one is pretty typical. I guess it really depends on price and how handy you are with a wrench. EDIT: I just saw the price. Don't do it!
 
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