Builds Olive the 71 FJ40 build

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Adding a few pictures of the Superior Engineering shackles and there pin lengths as i had some interest in them.
I did have to clearance one side of the plates on the front shackles as they interfered with the chassis. Only seems like an issue when using the smaller 15mm pin chassis mounts. The mounts below are on the rear and from a later 40 series, 18mm pin bushes.

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Olive never came with door check straps and was fitted with cut down fibreglass doors.
Now i have some early model half doors and also full doors I would like to fit check straps.
As i have a set of later model door check straps l was considering fitting these.
First picture is mine, second is a later model.
I have a BJ42 i can copy from aswell.
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Like the look of these
 
Decided to fit the later model door check straps because I already had them. Used my BJ42 wreck for all the dimensions.
Pictures how they turned out. Last picture is the piece I removed from behind the A pillar, probably the worst bit of the job.

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Finally fully welded my rear 60 series diff perches in. The standard rear shaft was always a concern as it was binding at full droop when on the 2 post hoist.
I looked at going to a CV style shaft which I had as spares but it needed rebuilding, so due to cost I decided to run the standard type shaft with single uni-joints.
I already made a standard shaft and will look at going to a 80 series / hilux front shaft later as the yokes have larger working angles.
Same as what White stripe recommend to FF LC FREAK and he used this shaft in his build for the same binding issues, only he is spring over (GX470 Shaft cut down)
Builds - PLC build
Also single uni-joint shafts seem stronger and cheaper to repair.
Here are some pictures in my tailshaft link
 
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Looking at getting my original seats recovered but still undecided if I will be happy with the comfort of them. Won’t be doing any touring but had recaros in my old hilux which were nice.
Anyone ever regret staying with the originals and not upgrading to aftermarket buckets?

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Restored the OEM seats in my 71. Position of my throttle leg is not comfortable, at all. Seen posts where folks have moved the entire seat back. I'd need to do something about the driver side jump seat. When the jump seat bottom is lifted it grazes the drivers seat back. Apparently 72 or 73 long jumps are angled for more clearance. Also seen a post where someone modified the throttle pedal for comfort. Just haven't crossed these bridges yet. Need to soon, so will be watching what you come up with.

Seems the steering wheel is so big you can only go back, not up with seats in a 71. Perhaps a smaller steering wheel is needed to go up and back a bit. If you are around 6' I'd say do some testing before restoring your OEM seats.

Have aftermarket buckets in my 76. Throttle leg angle is perfect.
 
Have already moved the drivers seat back for better position, l am 6ft.
Position seems ok, l do prefer the seating position of the later models with fuel tank under the body.
I have also adjusted the steering column length when I did the 60 series steering set up but have since read of people shorten the column for more room.
What buckets seats do you have in your 76?
I do like the Corbeau suspension seats
 
Went with the scat procars cause they are plug n' play with OEM seat brackets. Made in China so they aren't award winning quality. They are decent. Side bolsters are a bit narrow for me. I see they make an XL version now.
 
Looking at getting the seats recovered and the frames powder coated but before that happens i'm deciding whether to make the drivers seat adjustable. Currently it is fixed position and the mounts don't appear to be too strong.
Not sure what year the seats became adjustable?
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Thinking about fitting these seat slides I have from my 60 series I wrecked out.
Cut off the brackets from seat frame and make some flat mounts to bolt on to the slides. I will keep the height of the slides as low as possible.
Here are the seat slides, not sure if both sides lock into position?
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Drilled out the rivets and removed the feet and welded the holes i wasn't going to use. The other holes were spot on to mount to the bottom of the seats.
Remade the brackets lower to bolt up to the slides to keep the overall seat height low.
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Between dodging bushfires and the heat of summer i stripped out the tub and started to sand, grind and remove all paint and rust so i could put down some epoxy primer Epotec 408 ( Green Grey) and then Raptor liner.
Here are some before shots, you can see a few different coats of paint.
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shots
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