Builds Olive '78 Fj40 (1 Viewer)

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Well I slapped the 35s and OEM steelies on the truck....along with the oem lug nuts and valvestems (Pacific valvestem caps are so much nicer :)).

I love it - "it is so choice....if you have the means, I highly recommend picking them up".

Continuation of nothing wildly interesting, caps have been slapped on, Trasharoo taken out of storage and put on the spare (which fits perfectly with a 1.25" bolt on spacer). Bluetooth unit has been installed with a 4x6 in the factory speaker location. Currently have an order in for some more parts to 'finish' the engine bay for a while. Once the new intake is on, I will be pretty content, just tweaking day to day to find the perfect blend of USA and non-USA.

Only item I really need is a clutch inspection cover. I blew it and sold the wrong cover without checking. If anyone has a clean, rust free clutch inspection cover - please message me, I'm avoiding any wheeling until I slap that on.

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To say I'm not jazzed about the new intake is a lie....so here's a pic. I sourced a similar/essentially identical unit for the last 40 and I couldn't stand the USA version any longer, so the freshly powder coated bracket and inlet/hose and 75-80 intake (not on truck) will be up for sale.

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I'll be sitting on my hands while I wait for the OEM exhaust to be re-released - the aftermarket junk on the truck now needs to disappear.
 
I'll be sitting on my hands while I wait for the OEM exhaust to be re-released

Wait, do you know something I don't?
 
I'll be sitting on my hands while I wait for the OEM exhaust to be re-released

Wait, do you know something I don't?
Doubtful aside from Heritage program releasing the part numbers - still hasn't popped up to order yet, whereas some older items have come available to order stateside.

17401-61090 - Pipe assy, front
17420-61070 - Pipe assy, center

It's for 79-84 2F trucks, which is exactly what I want for my truck, goes to the outside of the frame under driverseat then loops back to the muffler.
 
Nate I think the one on my 40 is the wrong one for my bellhousing and I only have like two bolts in it - I think it's a 80-84 bellhousing with a 75-80 cover on it. which one did you need exactly again? Maybe we can trade.
 
Nate I think the one on my 40 is the wrong one for my bellhousing and I only have like two bolts in it - I think it's a 80-84 bellhousing with a 75-80 cover on it. which one did you need exactly again? Maybe we can trade.
I sent you the one that I had - but it was wrong. Shoot me pics of what you have!

Picture shows what I need, which is symmetrical bolt holes L/R. Whereas 80+ bellhousing is asymmetrical.


Found what I needed.
 
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How did you remove the flange on the speedy sleeve?
Cut the tiniest sliver in the metal and use needle nose to pry away from the seal surface. The flange has a precut edge to make it easier to remove. Just be very careful and slow to remove, but I had zero issues removing. It helps a lot to slightly dremel a cut into the flange to pull away.
 
Very cool - excellent write up and photos. Thank you for sharing. At some point, if you have a tape measure/camera handy. I am working on rebuilding my emissions setup and need to make a new charcoal canister vacuum line. Its the hard line that you have going along the top of your firewall from the voltage regulator area and spits out next to your carb cooling fan. Topmost hard line on the firewall.

I'm looking for some measurements and photos of the line and clamps. No rush - thank you!
 
Very cool - excellent write up and photos. Thank you for sharing. At some point, if you have a tape measure/camera handy. I am working on rebuilding my emissions setup and need to make a new charcoal canister vacuum line. Its the hard line that you have going along the top of your firewall from the voltage regulator area and spits out next to your carb cooling fan. Topmost hard line on the firewall.

I'm looking for some measurements and photos of the line and clamps. No rush - thank you!
Shoot me a PM and I can send you what you need via phone. That reminds me I need to get a VCV to get that working again.
 
Spent the last 3 weeks in Texas working - was a nice change of pace and good to get out of Idaho for a bit. Wrapping up in Montana/Northern Idaho was a real treat. Worked on some cruisers, saw some great folks (looking at you @samc2447 @CenTXFJ60 @bottombracket , hauled some more cruisers and came home to a few fun boxes...however it came to a screeching hault when I got a call that I had to work today. Driver rolled a Mack today and had to do a few runs because of it. Upside - I got to drive the 40 for the first time in 3.5 weeks. Fired up immediately and ran great!

In my one day home I was able to install the NOS air cleaner and bracket on the truck along with some misc parts I had laying around waiting to be installed along with the neat bracket on the valve cover. Once the rocker studs arrive, I will be able to finally install my 75-80 valve cover. The engine bay is getting very close to the condition I wanted without going overboard - just a few more little tweaks but the hard parts have been found and installed, woo! I'll have to update the engine bay pictures in a few days - I haven't cleaned and still need to install a few things before I'm content for the winter.

Also decided to order air bags for the 40 - thanks! @NookShneer

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Also learned an interesting bit ontop of the two I knew. There are 3 variations for H42 clutch inspection covers, see below.

Top - 85-87; used with 3F bellhousing when H55 came out, so 85-87 H42 for US trucks. This has a drastically different shape. See 2nd angle picture. Note assymetrical bolts.
Middle - ~75-80; note symetrical bolt holes.
Bottom - 80-84; note assymmetrical bolt holes (I believe this includes Fj40 and Fj60 together - not sure on exact year split so maybe '79 also?

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thank you for posting all three inspection covers in a row like that - that is the best side-by-side comparison I have seen yet.
 
Decided to put bags on the truck to level it out and help with weight when traveling. @NookShneer at TorFab sent them my way and gave me all the details to order parts. I love these brackets because they use Airlift bags as opposed to the Boss kit which is a bag that only seals when you install the plates - too many opportunities for leaks.

Preassembled on the table and dropped them in. Very simple to install, just removed the factory bump stops and loosened the u bolts. Lightly testfit then torqued it all down.

22psi on driver and 12psi levels the truck and gave it an overall lift of about 3/8”. I’ll probably take some out but really dig it so far.

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Decided to put bags on the truck to level it out and help with weight when traveling. @NookShneer at TorFab sent them my way and gave me all the details to order parts. I love these brackets because they use Airlift bags as opposed to the Boss kit which is a bag that only seals when you install the plates - too many opportunities for leaks.

Preassembled on the table and dropped them in. Very simple to install, just removed the factory bump stops and loosened the u bolts. Lightly testfit then torqued it all down.

22psi on driver and 12psi levels the truck and gave it an overall lift of about 3/8”. I’ll probably take some out but really dig it so far.

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Glad they worked out! I need to get more fabricated now.
 
Decided to put bags on the truck to level it out and help with weight when traveling. @NookShneer at TorFab sent them my way and gave me all the details to order parts. I love these brackets because they use Airlift bags as opposed to the Boss kit which is a bag that only seals when you install the plates - too many opportunities for leaks.

Preassembled on the table and dropped them in. Very simple to install, just removed the factory bump stops and loosened the u bolts. Lightly testfit then torqued it all down.

22psi on driver and 12psi levels the truck and gave it an overall lift of about 3/8”. I’ll probably take some out but really dig it so far.

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We deal with these kits too often. A tip for leaks is to coat the tube in shellac before pushing it into the connector. No taking it out again once it's dried but almost guaranteed not to leak as long as the tube was cut perfectly straight. Also, lube the valve core with silicone spray or rubber safe lubricant like Fluid Film periodically, else it will shrink on you or barely leak.

Try to get your bag to be more straight when aired up, else you stand a chance of rubbing when you deflate it and the forward facing sides of the bag pieces get even closer to each other.
 
We deal with these kits too often. A tip for leaks is to coat the tube in shellac before pushing it into the connector. No taking it out again once it's dried but almost guaranteed not to leak as long as the tube was cut perfectly straight. Also, lube the valve core with silicone spray or rubber safe lubricant like Fluid Film periodically, else it will shrink on you or barely leak.

Try to get your bag to be more straight when aired up, else you stand a chance of rubbing when you deflate it and the forward facing sides of the bag pieces get even closer to each other.
Right - yea Boss kits leak too much, I dealt with them on Sprinter vans - not a fan!

Working on straightening the bag, downside is the bracket mounts at an angle from factory so I'd need to make a wedge for a flat mounting point, which I reckon is my next step.
 
Scavenged parts off a clean ‘79 celica at the junkyard. Found a pristine accelerator pedal boot. I’m still blown away with the quality from Inoac. New badge and license plate lamp covers. Getting close to content with the truck for a while. It’ll be nice to take a break from spending money.

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Great updates. Awesome Celica boot find - looks brand new. I'll be texting for info about the air leveling, really cool.
J man. You should update your thread - you’ve got so much done!

I myself have done very little. Except @samc2447 bestowed a true gem for this truck. Finally had a minute to install, all that’s left is get a bracket and run lines for HAC, hoping the 84-89 pickup parts are exactly what I’m looking for. Functioning advance and HAC will be nice to have.

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Small but big piece to my endless puzzle, the correct month/year bottle jack!

It’s far too cold to paint and I’m not necessarily concerned with painting the jack - so I tore it apart and regressed. Just need the tool bag brackets and I can nearly wrap up the tool kit portion.

Truck is driving very well, starts right up after sitting a few days in the teens. Heat works great too. I have noticed a slightly weak crank though - need to look into the nearly new battery and check for any drains - cap is starting to weep more than I’d like to see for a 8mo old interstate.

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