Old Bessie's Build Thread

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UGA2018

UGA2018

Joined
Mar 13, 2017
Threads
50
Messages
516
Location
Atlanta
It's time to start my build thread as I get knee deep into this project. So here's the back story... I bought the cruiser about 2 months ago with the hopes of selling my car and making it my daily driver. That hasn't happened yet! And probably won't for a little while.

After spending more money than I want to admit with a mechanic I quickly realized that if I want to keep this reasonable I have to start wrenching. Even though my wife has reminded me a million times that I'm not a mechanic I figure that I'm smart enough and determined enough to figure it out. So here we go...

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After an incident with smoking for a few minutes I decided to just take a look at the dip stick. The pile was changed only 700 miles before this so I was surprised to find it bone dry. I decided to drain what oil was left to see how much she had in her. Only 2 quarts!

I filled her back up with up with 8 quarts and started watching the oil level. It started dropping and within only 150 miles I was half way down on the dipstick. I had some smoking but not terrible like I would have thought. There wasn't a large deposit of oil on the driveway either.

So where could it be going? The video is on start up with the choke pulled out half way. Definitely some smoke and it appears to be spitting an oily substance on the drive way.



I also got some pics underneath and saw some signs of oil leakage but still no significant dripping on the driveway. Next comes the compression test.

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Here's what the compression test showed. Low compression. I plan to do it again and double check I did it right and also a leak down test. Based on some great advice on this forum I think I'm headed to a head rebuild and replace the rear main seal.

My biggest question now is about the leak down test. Is there an easy way to get at top dead center for that? Also, where do I listen for leaks?

Thanks folks!

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Mine was doing the same thing. After running a compression and vacuum test and reading some good information in the FAQ i figured out it was leaking piston rings. Vacuum 101 - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com My numbers were very similar to yours. The best way for me to find TDC was to have someone crank the engine with my finger over the #1 spark plug hole. Just have them pop the starter a little at a time until your finger is pushed off the open spark plug hole. If you crank just a little at a time, when the air pushes your finger off, you should be close to TDC. Then with the transmission in gear I rocked it back and forth until the pointer lined up with the mark on the flywheel, it should be really close already.

I haven't done a leak down test but from my understanding if air bubbles up through the coolant its a head gasket, if you hear air wooshing out through the spark plug holes it's bad piston rings...Don't quote me on this though as I decided to do an engine swap instead of a rebuild.
 
Or put your compression gauge in #1 and turn the alt nut (all plugs out) (remember I'm 5'5" there's no pushing my truck to bump the flywheel) you'll hear the air being pushed out and it get harder to turn once it's at the top of the stroke.
I was thinking about you this AM. Personally I'd do another test. Plugs are out so just get it done. Then get your flywheel cover off and see if you can view tdc and the bb. If not put it in neutral and you should be able to turn the flywheel by hand since all the plugs are out. Then grab a bottle of white out and make a bold line on tdc and a fat dot on the bb.
Then line up tdc and do what I suggested above to get it at the top of the stroke and do you first batch. Instead of .08 do .10 for the intake and instead of .14 for exhaust do .16.
For the second batch put the gauge in #6 and turn the alt nut and listen again for the hissing. Turning it a few times around is fine. It'll take a few turns for you to hear what I mean.
 
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There's another test too to see if the head gasket is worn. The cylinders are really narrow between 3 and 4 (don't quote me) and there's a way to check them for air seeping between the two... @mwebfj60 do you remember who posted that picture and explaination how to check that a few weeks back?
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
There's another test too to see if the head gasket is worn. The cylinders are really narrow between 3 and 4 (don't quote me) and there's a way to check them for air seeping between the two... @mwebfj60 do you remember who posted that picture and explaination how to check that a few weeks back?
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No, I don't remember, sorry. All the numbers are very similar so my first guess wouldn't be head gasket unless you're seeing coolant in the oil or some other strong evidence. Get the leakdown finished and that will give a better indication.
 
TroutFJ said:
Mine was doing the same thing. After running a compression and vacuum test and reading some good information in the FAQ i figured out it was leaking piston rings. Vacuum 101 - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com My numbers were very similar to yours. The best way for me to find TDC was to have someone crank the engine with my finger over the #1 spark plug hole. Just have them pop the starter a little at a time until your finger is pushed off the open spark plug hole. If you crank just a little at a time, when the air pushes your finger off, you should be close to TDC. Then with the transmission in gear I rocked it back and forth until the pointer lined up with the mark on the flywheel, it should be really close already.

I haven't done a leak down test but from my understanding if air bubbles up through the coolant its a head gasket, if you hear air wooshing out through the spark plug holes it's bad piston rings...Don't quote me on this though as I decided to do an engine swap instead of a rebuild.
Click to expand...
Thanks @TroutFJ! So as a newbie here.... where exactly can you find that window to see the pointer lined up with the fly wheel?
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
Or put your compression gauge in #1 and turn the alt nut (all plugs out) (remember I'm 5'5" there's no pushing my truck to bump the flywheel) you'll hear the air being pushed out and it get harder to turn once it's at the top of the stroke.
I was thinking about you this AM. Personally I'd do another test. Plugs are out so just get it done. Then get your flywheel cover off and see if you can view tdc and the bb. If not put it in neutral and you should be able to turn the flywheel by hand since all the plugs are out. Then grab a bottle of white out and make a bold line on tdc and a fat dot on the bb.
Then line up tdc and do what I suggested above to get it at the top of the stroke and do you first batch. Instead of .08 do .10 for the intake and instead of .14 for exhaust do .16.
For the second batch put the gauge in #6 and turn the alt nut and listen again for the hissing. Turning it a few times around is fine. It'll take a few turns for you to hear what I mean.
Click to expand...
Ok... you talked me into it. Another compression test next and assuming its bad I'll follow that with a leak down test. Thanks!
 
After 3:30pm (CT time) I'll be kidless till Monday evening. Feel free to call and I can try to walk you thru whatever. FaceTime is invaluable for this sort of stuff too. I tend to forget to use it.
 
It's on the passenger side of the bellhousing near the firewall. Above the starter at about 10:00 on the bellhousing while looking from the front. There will be a plate that rotates on a 10 or 12mm bolt (can't remember which) covering the window. The plate is about 2" square. Just loosen that bolt and the plate should rotate outta the way.
 
I'm prepping for pulling my head off soon and reading a ton. I have a few questions that I would appreciate your help with.

1. When I have the head off should I deal with this oil galley plug issue? I'm not real clear yet on what I need to do but just keep reading that it can be a big problem.

2. I have to remove my air filter housing unit but do I also have to take the carb off to get the head off?

3. When I get the head off what should I look for on/in the block to make sure it it still all good?

Thanks!
 
Did you do another compression test? Valve adjustment? Check timing?
Why go so extreme right now?
 
Are you saying head when you mean valve cover? Galley plug can be done simply w/ cover off but I believe the head bolt nearest it needs to get removed. In the 60 FAQ Stickys there is a thread all about the galley plug fix. It's very informative along w/ many of the others.
IF you mean the valve cover than no the carb stays put just the air cleaner top and bottom needs to get removed.
 
Well.... a few lessons learned tonight!

Lesson #1 - the people on this forum are very smart to recommend I do another compression test. Thanks @NeverGiveUpYota @TroutFJ @vipergrhd @CaptClose @BGarcia88FJ62

Lesson#2 - my granddads old oil can doesn't put out enough oil.

Lesson #3 - dont pull off the head until you really have to!

So here are my compression results today. Very different than before. This time I waited for 20 clicks versus 10. I noticed that the old oil can wasn't putting out much oil on the 3rd cylinder so I switch to pouring some in through the funnel. Notice the jump in the wet test. Then I went back and did the first two cylinders again. That's the third number on those cylinders.

So now I'm thinking new piston rings. Could that be the cause of the smoking and burning oil?

What would you recommend next? Thanks for your help!

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200's are high. I believe too high. Personally I'd do a valve adjustment now. Then another test.
A turkey baster or a med syringe (twist the needle off) can be used to squirt in the oil too. I was told to do a tablespoon I think.
Wowza!!! I'm so glad you did it again. I really wish I could walk you through a valve adjustment tmrw but I'm working 7-3. Feel free tho to text if your gonna give it a shot. Tues thru Fri my son is w/ me but I could snap some pics or FaceTime if the weather is decent and you have time.
 
Can you get a good shot of the top of the plugs? Any of them shiny and wet? Your numbers (before the 200's) are highish too but really close throughout. Betting it's something straight forward causing the smoke and oil consumption.
 
Plugs are back in now but when I looked at them they look kind of shiny so I thought they were wet. But when I touched them they weren't. So I don't know what that means if anything.
 
If they weren't wet then that's good. I 'think' if they were shiny and wet as I'll add a pix of my ugly plugs from today, you'd have noticed.
2 & 5 are the ones that my readings were low on. I'm definetly leaking oil up through my valves.

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