Dunno Rick. If the sealant is filling the gap and can swell enough to place enough pressure against the block, it would work. I have limited knowledge of this stuff, but frankly I'd consider it vs a boatload of cash and/or time. If you know the sealant materials as we do here on the list, it would be worth a call to the maker's tech line. They may have a specific product for instance, that swells FIPG vs perhaps a urethane or other factory sealant. Dunno.
When I actually had the pan off and saw how bad the FPIG had failed and I was only getting a few drops now and then. Some people are leaving stains behind, I can't imagine how bad their seal is.
A friend of mine has a caravan which are notorious for tranny shifting problems. He put in some of that tranny in a can stuff. Said it improved his shifting almost immediately and now is trouble free. I think it's along the same lines. The O-rings get old and this stuff goes in and softens them up and gets them to seal better. I thought he was crazy for putting it in but it seems to be working out great for him.
I guess this stuff has come a long way from when I was a kid.
The cheapest deal on M1 0w-40 for me would be $4/qt (comparing to the regular $4.99) from Kragen.
Doug,
BGK44 products are very good from what I've heard. I've personally used Valvoline Maxlife with Stop leak on my MBZ power steering - came from 3+ drops a day to 0 drops within a month; something I would used again on other components on my 80 when time comes.
You guys have amazing knowlege on the subject. So what I gather is M10w-40 every 5K and I should be good. My 80 doesn't leak a drop and I've never had the oil analysis you speak of. Guess I've always changed my oil every 3K since it takes me a while to get there and I figured the more frequent the better. Is that a faulty assumption?
[quote author=sjcruiser link=board=2;threadid=15882;start=msg152990#msg152990 date=1084048961]The cheapest deal on M1 0w-40 for me would be $4/qt (comparing to the regular $4.99) from Kragen.[/quote]
Excellent, is Kragen a local parts store or internet site? I found many stores that sell Kragen Auto Parts on Google, but no Kragen store.
CSK Auto Inc. owns and operates more than 1,100 retail auto parts stores in 19 states under the brand names Checker Auto Parts, Schuck's Auto Supply, and Kragen Auto Parts.
[quote author=drohweder link=board=2;threadid=15882;start=msg152991#msg152991 date=1084049751]
You guys have amazing knowlege on the subject. So what I gather is M10w-40 every 5K and I should be good. My 80 doesn't leak a drop and I've never had the oil analysis you speak of. Guess I've always changed my oil every 3K since it takes me a while to get there and I figured the more frequent the better. Is that a faulty assumption?
[/quote]
You could go out to 7500 with out a problem in M1 0w-40 or any other good synthetic.
Brake fluid in your oil!!!! I wouldn't go adding brake fluid to your oil.
There was mention of fuel economy. Do some oils or certian weights decrease resistance and therefore increase economy? Gas is now $2.25 in my neck of the woods so its a legit question.
Lower viscosity oil does slightly help fuel economy. Most of the latter model FZJ80s went all-weather 5-30 vs. the earlier models with the same engine specifying a range of oils. Supposedly to make a slight average bump in fuel economy?
Lighter oil can improve fuel economy on the order 1-1.5%, important for fleet testing, not important for real world use. I would rather have the lower wear from a good xw-40 weight over the very slight milage gain.
For MPG concerns, you'd be better off to adjust tire pressure, modify your driving habits a bit, and be sure the air filter's clean to see some tangible gain with little/no cost. Oil viscosity's a very minor one to chase. I was thinking about an MPG thread, so I'll start one today.
It is probably overkill squared or even cubed but I stick to super super super strict change intervals of 3500 miles; with the turbo, I'm not taking any chances! In fact, I have never gone over fifteen miles above that change interval. Cary is this anything remotely resembling reasonable?
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BTW, Just went and re-read the recommendations for changing the oil with the turbo and saw that APS specifically states that they recommend Mobil 1 oil only and that that oil should be changed every 5000Km!!! So, my original 3500 mile change interval is actually almost another 400 miles or so more past the recommended change interval. On this oil change, I collected the oil in the blackstone labs oil collection container and I will send it in to see what affect if any the turbo has on the oil. I think that the recommendation of 5000Km is extremely conservative and I think that putting another 400 miles on that oil makes no more difference than putting another 1000 miles on that oil (in terms of the oil additive packages still working etc) but what the hell, I'm probably gonna go with the 3000 mile change interval now unless the analysis really reveals that this is overkill squared, cubed or whatever!!! I'll report back.
