Oh yes I did! Harrop/Eaton E-Locker thread (1 Viewer)

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@ewillis So when you use the factory locker ecu, does this light up the little locker lights on the dash when they're engaged?
 
@ewillis So when you use the factory locker ecu, does this light up the little locker lights on the dash when they're engaged?

No, the light doesn't illuminate when the dial is switched..there is no bulb behind the dash on a factory unlocked truck. If I put a bulb in there, it might illuminate...not a 100% sure on that one.
 
It probably wouldn't light up because I recall the OEM uses an independent switch for the light.
 
No, the light doesn't illuminate when the dial is switched..there is no bulb behind the dash on a factory unlocked truck. If I put a bulb in there, it might illuminate...not a 100% sure on that one.

You can easily get the lights on the cluster to work. If you are using the oem magic dial diff locker switch, you just need to put in the bulbs in the cluster and ground pin 2 on the passenger side kickpanel harness to light up the rear indicator, and pin 9 to light up the front. Since the OEM locker switch sends +12v to the pins 6 (FR-RR switch position) and 12 (RR switch position) of the passenger kickpanel harness, you would need a relay to convert it to ground. To light up the front, wire up a relay with terminals 30 and 85 to ground, 86 to pin 6 of the oem kickpanel plug, and terminal 87 to pin 9 of the oem kickpanel plug. You need a second relay to light up the rear indicator light, wired the same as the front except that terminal 86 goes to pin 12 of the oem plug, and 87 goes to pin 2 of the oem plug. Hope this helps! :)

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You can easily get the lights on the cluster to work. If you are using the oem magic dial diff locker switch, you just need to put in the bulbs in the cluster and ground pin 2 on the passenger side kickpanel harness to light up the rear indicator, and pin 9 to light up the front. Since the OEM locker switch sends +12v to the pins 6 (FR-RR switch position) and 12 (RR switch position) of the passenger kickpanel harness, you would need a relay to convert it to ground. To light up the front, wire up a relay with terminals 30 and 85 to ground, 86 to pin 6 of the oem kickpanel plug, and terminal 87 to pin 9 of the oem kickpanel plug. You need a second relay to light up the rear indicator light, wired the same as the front except that terminal 86 goes to pin 12 of the oem plug, and 87 goes to pin 2 of the oem plug. Hope this helps! :)

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:clap::clap::clap:
Rob wins the Harrop Tech Tip of the Day Contest - Grand Prize is two 3x6" window stickers

Prior winner (@ewillis) gets a set as well if he will PM a mailing address :)

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You can easily get the lights on the cluster to work. If you are using the oem magic dial diff locker switch, you just need to put in the bulbs in the cluster and ground pin 2 on the passenger side kickpanel harness to light up the rear indicator, and pin 9 to light up the front. Since the OEM locker switch sends +12v to the pins 6 (FR-RR switch position) and 12 (RR switch position) of the passenger kickpanel harness, you would need a relay to convert it to ground. To light up the front, wire up a relay with terminals 30 and 85 to ground, 86 to pin 6 of the oem kickpanel plug, and terminal 87 to pin 9 of the oem kickpanel plug. You need a second relay to light up the rear indicator light, wired the same as the front except that terminal 86 goes to pin 12 of the oem plug, and 87 goes to pin 2 of the oem plug. Hope this helps! :)

View attachment 1319014
HOLY s*** MAN
 
You can easily get the lights on the cluster to work. If you are using the oem magic dial diff locker switch, you just need to put in the bulbs in the cluster and ground pin 2 on the passenger side kickpanel harness to light up the rear indicator, and pin 9 to light up the front. Since the OEM locker switch sends +12v to the pins 6 (FR-RR switch position) and 12 (RR switch position) of the passenger kickpanel harness, you would need a relay to convert it to ground. To light up the front, wire up a relay with terminals 30 and 85 to ground, 86 to pin 6 of the oem kickpanel plug, and terminal 87 to pin 9 of the oem kickpanel plug. You need a second relay to light up the rear indicator light, wired the same as the front except that terminal 86 goes to pin 12 of the oem plug, and 87 goes to pin 2 of the oem plug. Hope this helps! :)

View attachment 1319014

Legend
 
Maybe that vendor should stock plugs as well :( :)

On North American FZJ80's, the plug is already part of the factory wiring harness. As is the wiring for the front and rear locker dash lights. Both go to a connector in the front PS kick panel where the locker ECU would normally go. A 30A fused circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on also is present in the same kick panel ECU connector. So if you run the Harrop wiring into the PS kick panel everything you need to get to is accessible in that one place and it's easy to just splice a few wires together and you're done. The elockers only draw 3A and so can be run directly by the dash switch and you can re-purpose the relays that come with the locker to run the dash lights. The hardest part of the project is probably pulling the gauge cluster out so that you can install the two locker indicator lamps, and even that's not difficult. The part number for the lamps is 90981-11018 and the p/n for the lamp holder is 83101-04020 (but verify with @beno to be sure). Here's the relevant FSM wiring diagram:
 

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On North American FZJ80's, the plug is already part of the factory wiring harness. As is the wiring for the front and rear locker dash lights. Both go to a connector in the front PS kick panel where the locker ECU would normally go. A 30A fused circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on also is present in the same kick panel ECU connector. So if you run the Harrop wiring into the PS kick panel everything you need to get to is accessible in that one place and it's easy to just splice a few wires together and you're done. The elockers only draw 3A and so can be run directly by the dash switch and you can re-purpose the relays that come with the locker to run the dash lights. The hardest part of the project is probably pulling the gauge cluster out so that you can install the two locker indicator lamps, and even that's not difficult. The part number for the lamps is 90981-11018 and the p/n for the lamp holder is 83101-04020 (but verify with @beno to be sure). Here's the relevant FSM wiring diagram:
Thanks for the clarification/detail. Not all rigs are so lucky to have a harness/plug We are shipping the OEM switch to new Harrop owners for install in a range of Yotas without the plug as part of the OEM harness - like Ken's Tacoma.

The plan is to replace the clock module with an OEM rotary switch in my '02 Tacoma when the Harrops go in.

Torfab put an 80/100 locker switch in my BJ 73 when it got "Harroped" as below. The indicator light used the lamp previously occupied by diesel filter alert. This location is just to the right of instrument cluster, convenient for right-hand operation with both lockers in the same switch - something I see as a safety issue. The actuation is sequential (rear first, then front) and you cannot get confused about which switch is being flipped :)

My Tacoma clock / new switch location is very similar to position of BJ 73 switch installation.


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Right, but this thread is in the 80 Series Tech section so I felt it was important to point out the fact that the nice, progressive factory diff lock switch can plug right into the factory wiring harness on an FZJ80. ;)
 
Right, but this thread is in the 80 Series Tech section so I felt it was important to point out the fact that the nice, progressive factory diff lock switch can plug right into the factory wiring harness on an FZJ80. ;)
Agreed, thanks. :)
 
Right, but this thread is in the 80 Series Tech section so I felt it was important to point out the fact that the nice, progressive factory diff lock switch can plug right into the factory wiring harness on an FZJ80. ;)

Yes...on page 6 of this thread (uploaded here), there are some images of Joey connecting the Harrop to the factory harness. For those going down this road, just look at the color of the wires (green) to determine which one to de-pin. If anyone is going to tackle the dash bulbs and related wiring, I'm sure with the posts above it is definitely doable. Post some images if you can though for those of us that are not as electronically inclined...;)
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Yes...on page 6 of this thread (uploaded here), there are some images of Joey connecting the Harrop to the factory harness. For those going down this road, just look at the color of the wires (green) to determine which one to de-pin. If anyone is going to tackle the dash bulbs and related wiring, I'm sure with the posts above it is definitely doable. Post some images if you can though for those of us that are not as electronically inclined...;)
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Doesn't get any cleaner looking.
 

@Frisman You'll enjoy it...great locker! 1997 has full float rear. Just make sure you get someone who knows what they're doing to set it up properly. Ship to Ken @gearinstalls.com would be my recommendation.
 

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