Oh yes I did! Harrop/Eaton E-Locker thread
- Thread starter ewillis
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ewillis
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- Thread starter
- #102
OK boys and girls...this is the last of the sexy Land Cruiser gear pics. If you don't like sexy gear pics, please turn away NOW! With that being said, if the "Eaton" symbol on the carrier doesn't get the blood pumping, there's no help for you my friend 
The install is complete, and my 3rd is on its way home. Also would like to again thank and highly recommend ZUK (AKA Ken at gearinstalls.com) for completing this project for me. If you need or know anyone who needs diff work, Ken is THE MAN!
The install is complete, and my 3rd is on its way home. Also would like to again thank and highly recommend ZUK (AKA Ken at gearinstalls.com) for completing this project for me. If you need or know anyone who needs diff work, Ken is THE MAN!
well I found out to have mine done it's $2500 for everything for 1 axle ... I'll hold off on that for a while ... or might find someone else whose closer to do mine and even if it's an arb .... I just want the rear done , thats enough for what I do ...I'm thinking I can save 1200 in labor. Nothing bad about having georg do it , I'm sure he's the guy its just too much to leave my truck there for days like 3-5 for him to do a locker install.
ewillis
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- Thread starter
- #104
The eagle has landed! Got my 3rd re-installed and all that is left is to install axles and button everything up. FWIW, I had originally used an OEM gasket for the 3rd when it was mentioned that RTV may be the better solution for this application. I subsequently did some research and it appears many prefer RTV for diffs not due to convenience, rather; it actually seals better than the cork gasket. For those in the same boat, I emailed Permatex directly regarding "Right Stuff" vs Ultra Grey vs Ultra Black and this was their response "Permatex would suggest using its Gear Oil RTV (PN 81182) or Ultra Grey (PN 82194) for your application". I chose Ultra Grey and glad I went the extra step and removed the OEM cork gasket and re-installed with Ultra Grey...appears to have sealed perfectly (opinions will vary).
Yeah, I think I wasted about 40 bucks on both diff gaskets. Hopefully my parts guy will let me exchange it for some FIPG (oil formula). Great job! I think I might pull my 3rds out this weekend. How do you plan on doing the wiring? Sending you a PM
ewillis
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- Thread starter
- #106
It's a good feeling to get this done...the front was a beeatch! Hopefully I can be a guinea pig for Joey to get the wiring done. @NLXTACY knows his stuff when it comes to wiring. I think these Harrops are going to be very popular in the next few years, so may as well start stocking some pre-made pigtails at Wits' End!
What?!?!?!?!
You do realize those gaskets are about $8 each right? Sorry you got hosed bro.
And 00295-01281 is the correct FIPG for differential housings.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
It's a good feeling to get this done...the front was a beeatch! Hopefully I can be a guinea pig for Joey to get the wiring done. @NLXTACY knows his stuff when it comes to wiring. I think these Harrops are going to be very popular in the next few years, so may as well start stocking some pre-made pigtails at Wits' End!
Just send me the info and I'll get started on it. Or better yet, drive it over to West Hills and I'll build your kit up as the guinea pig
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
So there is some misinformation here.
The gasket between the housing and the 3rd member is paper(not cork). It isn't expensive. The nice part is, it adheres to both sides of the housing. It seals very well and lasts for decades. The RTV type stuff can work loose and leak. It's ok if that's what you have, but the paper gaskets works well and once set, work for along time.
I'm very interested to hear how the Harrop locker does over time.
The gasket between the housing and the 3rd member is paper(not cork). It isn't expensive. The nice part is, it adheres to both sides of the housing. It seals very well and lasts for decades. The RTV type stuff can work loose and leak. It's ok if that's what you have, but the paper gaskets works well and once set, work for along time.
I'm very interested to hear how the Harrop locker does over time.
Haha, your right Beno I checked my receipt. It's 6.53 for one and 5.96 for the other one, feeling much better now. Thanks for the correct FIPG info. Will 2 tubes do both front and rear. Hard to determine the size on a monitor.
1 tube will do both front and rear.
Yes Sir!... If you've seen things that Joey used to wire and make haha, this is knuckle dragger stuff. Unfortunately I'm aIt's a good feeling to get this done...the front was a beeatch! Hopefully I can be a guinea pig for Joey to get the wiring done. @NLXTACY knows his stuff when it comes to wiring. I think these Harrops are going to be very popular in the next few years, so may as well start stocking some pre-made pigtails at Wits' End!
knuckle dragger!NLXTACY
Wits' End
Yes Sir!... If you've seen things that Joey used to wire and make haha, this is knuckle dragger stuff. Unfortunately I'm a
You guys are WAAAAAY to generous with the kudos
No, I wanted to get some experience with the Harrop in isolation before the auto locker goes in. We'll meet up soon...don't forget the RICE!
The auto locker is FAR easier than the eaton. Come over and we will knock it out in an afternoon.
Yes we will have rice! Hahahaha
No, I wanted to get some experience with the Harrop in isolation before the auto locker goes in. We'll meet up soon...don't forget the RICE!
Very good, Eric. I see you posted up some good pics of your gear install
I finished your link on my webpage and have the write-up right here.... Toyota gear install
If you want to have the rear "Aussie" installed with 4 new bearings and a solid collar then I'm always available.
Be careful testing any front locker out on steep hills with an open rear. I have been there before and the front can slide. Funny thing is as soon as the rear gets a locker the sliding issue goes away. Just the way it is.
Ken
Last edited:
ewillis
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #118
Oh Yes It's Done! Not enough thanks to give for @NLXTACY and @Qball spending the better part of their day to get the wiring completed for this locker. In retrospect, it would have been advantageous to complete a full writeup of how to merge the Harrop wiring harness to fit the OEM magic dial, but time constraints did not permit.
We (by "we" I mean Joey and Qball...I just fetched tools) started by analyzing the Harrop harness to determine what was needed and what was going into the scrap heap. Joey then began working his magic with connectors and heatshrink sleeving.
The supplied Harrop connector pictured above connects to the fitting on the pumpkin. Not the finest quality connectors available on the market, but likely sufficient.
Once fitted to the diff housing and routed into the cab, it was time to start working on the magic dial. Special thanks to @orangefj45 for some needed intel on the subject.
For anyone attempting to install a Harrop E-Locker or completing a locked axle swap and wanting to utilize the factory magic dial location, just know that the blank panel on the dash simply pops out and is pre-stamped for the locker dial to fit right in. The locker ECU (pictured below with white connector and 3 wires) is also just hangin out lookin' for love! Thank you @retrofive for that tid bit!
Joey made quick work out of depinning the locker ECU to merge with the Harrop relay. The pins in the ECU are small and secured tightly, maybe he should make a tool for this
Once we verified through a multimeter that we had juice running through the system, it was time to solder the wires together and button it up. On a side note, the Harrop is absolutely silent. I had my ear at the diff and couldn't discern if it was operating. We could actually hear the relay, but not the locker...ninja stuff!
After it was all back together, we took it for a test run. The locker appears to take a full revolution (not much) of the drive shaft to engage. Once she locks up....
!!!
Best pic of all...
We (by "we" I mean Joey and Qball...I just fetched tools) started by analyzing the Harrop harness to determine what was needed and what was going into the scrap heap. Joey then began working his magic with connectors and heatshrink sleeving.
The supplied Harrop connector pictured above connects to the fitting on the pumpkin. Not the finest quality connectors available on the market, but likely sufficient.
Once fitted to the diff housing and routed into the cab, it was time to start working on the magic dial. Special thanks to @orangefj45 for some needed intel on the subject.
For anyone attempting to install a Harrop E-Locker or completing a locked axle swap and wanting to utilize the factory magic dial location, just know that the blank panel on the dash simply pops out and is pre-stamped for the locker dial to fit right in. The locker ECU (pictured below with white connector and 3 wires) is also just hangin out lookin' for love! Thank you @retrofive for that tid bit!
Joey made quick work out of depinning the locker ECU to merge with the Harrop relay. The pins in the ECU are small and secured tightly, maybe he should make a tool for this
Once we verified through a multimeter that we had juice running through the system, it was time to solder the wires together and button it up. On a side note, the Harrop is absolutely silent. I had my ear at the diff and couldn't discern if it was operating. We could actually hear the relay, but not the locker...ninja stuff!
After it was all back together, we took it for a test run. The locker appears to take a full revolution (not much) of the drive shaft to engage. Once she locks up....
!!!Best pic of all...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Yeah I had an idea in mind in how to wire it up because I was reading the EWD the night before. I made a quick call to Georg and his guy and sure enough I was on the right path but they answered the last piece of the puzzle for me. I will say that I was really surprised at the cheapness of the wiring, the connectors, the relay. Ugh, I hate Chinese garbage. I was showing Eric the difference between the Metr-Pack and what the Harrop came with, no comparison. I think if I were to do this I would swap out the terminals and go Metri-Pack instead of what they supplied. The wiring itself could just be cleaned up and use better connectors. Otherwise it wasn't very difficult.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for the call and the mention. Looks like it's working perfectly!!!!!!
Let me know if you guys need any other info .......... Or parts.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Let me know if you guys need any other info .......... Or parts.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
