Official LC200 ARB Install Thread - WARNING LOTS OF PICS!!! (2 Viewers)
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I went with the Warn 12000 lbs winch. The reasons being that you can never have too much power. It is only a BIT more money and the extra power could come in handy.
Mitch and Marc (and whomever else): How did you accommodate the Rasta skid plates?
Here is my modification. I cut the lower ARB plate to match the ridge on the Rasta plate, then drilled 4 holes through both and bolted it up there tightly. The ARB plate was bent to match the Rasta plate by using a jack under the LC.
Here are some pics:
Here is my modification. I cut the lower ARB plate to match the ridge on the Rasta plate, then drilled 4 holes through both and bolted it up there tightly. The ARB plate was bent to match the Rasta plate by using a jack under the LC.
Here are some pics:
Hello everyone,
I am new to this site and just bought my first 200 series. The pictures are great and was very helpful. As a married man with kids, I have to add accessories to my new Landi very slowly. A happy wife is a happy life. I am not sure what I should add first before I have to wait another year. Any ideas? I was thinking of doing the ARB Bull bar first and getting rid of my stock tires. I like the terra grapplers but how are they on the highway at 75mph. Any added noise or pull? I heard many people like the Revo's. If I do the bull bar, I will have to wait two years before doing the lift. ICON, OME, Total Caos and 35" tires or 33" and extended fender flares (painted of course). I don't want to lose my side angle too much by going to high. My rig is Silver.
Thanks in Advance,
Angelo
I am new to this site and just bought my first 200 series. The pictures are great and was very helpful. As a married man with kids, I have to add accessories to my new Landi very slowly. A happy wife is a happy life.
I am not sure what I should add first before I have to wait another year. Any ideas? I was thinking of doing the ARB Bull bar first and getting rid of my stock tires. I like the terra grapplers but how are they on the highway at 75mph. Any added noise or pull? I heard many people like the Revo's. If I do the bull bar, I will have to wait two years before doing the lift. ICON, OME, Total Caos and 35" tires or 33" and extended fender flares (painted of course). I don't want to lose my side angle too much by going to high. My rig is Silver.Thanks in Advance,
Angelo
Hello everyone,
I am new to this site and just bought my first 200 series. The pictures are great and was very helpful. As a married man with kids, I have to add accessories to my new Landi very slowly. A happy wife is a happy life.
Thanks in Advance,
Angelo
Hello and welcome to the boards!
To start, good luck on the 35's. No one has gone that high yet, and you'd be pressed to do so well -- especially on a budget.
Artic Trucks HEAVILY modified their vehicles to fit 35's under there -- more than just fenders.
Doing the bumper without the lift would not be smart. Even driving mine from my house where I did the bumper to the shop which was going to install the lift was an interesting drive. The front is way too heavy for factory springs. Talk about a stink bug!
I have not had my TGs up to 75 yet (no need for the highway) but maybe sometime soon.
To start, how are you going to be driving this thing? Are you a mall cruiser, land cruiser, or land crusher type?
I'd begin with skid plates and sliders, personally, and definitely do the lift before the bumper, but then you will need to change the front springs once you do decide to do the bumper.
For me, it was kinda an all-or-nothing $12000+ project. I didn't want to wind up spending more later on, even if it was just a few hundred bucks or so.
Adding weight and leveling go hand-in-hand.
Just giving you my opinion and good luck! Take some pics when you do start modding!
Thanks JB for great info. and the welcome. I am not on a budget otherwise I would not have bought this rig. ; ) It's more of an agreement with my wife that I would not completely modify it until we have had it for a little while but maybe that might change. This rig will be used for everything. Going to the mall, transporting kids, backcountry camping (sometime serious terrain) Rubicon trail once a year and other hard to reach locations and potential of pulling a boat. Also moving back to Denver in two years (snow). We have two other cars for some everyday driving too give the cruiser a break. It sounds like I should go with the OME lift and tires first. What springs do you recommend. I don't want the truck to be too stiff as driving long distance is more often than not. Shoot, I was really hoping to get 35's. How come tundras can put 35's on with no problem and older series Cruisers. What makes the 200 more difficult and costly? There probably not as good on the snow any how. I just love the look of the fender flares with the 35's. Would you suggest cutting the facia a bit closer to the ARB with winch option to close the gap? I will take many pictures when the transformation begins. Have you installed ARB lockers yet? Thanks again.
I know its a little late to jump in, but I have personally installed no less than 100+ ARB bumpers on the TLC 200 series. And you actually don't need to worry about that 15+mm gap. Before I designed/built my own version to the ARB/TMJ bumpers (neither of which fully did what I needed on armored cars) I made my own jig that would overlay on to the OEM bumper and could mark it with a sharpie pen to be cut. Below is some pictures of the ARB bumper installed showing the less than 1mm gap. And trust me what even you think you could put your bumper though at home we can do far far worse out here in the desert under offensive/defensive maneuvers.
below is the prototype and then the final version we built - had to RHINO line it to cover up all the welding/grinding - and still waiting to purchase a mandrel bender to get the pipes done better. (as you can notice on the bends i keep pinching them)
(and if you notice - some TLC's come with sunroofs..... I build escape hatches/firing points - thats the funny square on the roof that look like the pipes in super mario brothers)
below is the prototype and then the final version we built - had to RHINO line it to cover up all the welding/grinding - and still waiting to purchase a mandrel bender to get the pipes done better. (as you can notice on the bends i keep pinching them)
(and if you notice - some TLC's come with sunroofs..... I build escape hatches/firing points - thats the funny square on the roof that look like the pipes in super mario brothers)
xkennx, awesome post. If it doesnt pose any sort of security risk, if you could get some more shots of these rigs next time you're working on one I'd love to see.
I like the second prototype, the one with the center support reversed and FLAT on the front instead of raked back.
The main reason for the gap is for when the body/chassis flex offroad, you'd be surprised how much it moves. YouTube - even more exploring amicalola falls
I like the second prototype, the one with the center support reversed and FLAT on the front instead of raked back.
The main reason for the gap is for when the body/chassis flex offroad, you'd be surprised how much it moves. YouTube - even more exploring amicalola falls
Perhaps a little off subject, but regarding this image, are those 18" steel wheels? Are they the same ones that come on the 2007+ Tundra?
Anyone see their bull bar shaking/vibrating?
Just installed my bumper on my 2008 200. Its been on for awhile and I notice shaking and vibration on the road and trail. What gives? It has a 15k with wirerope. All 400 bolts on the entire bumper/bracket are torqued down TIGHT! Am I just seeing the vibration between body and frame?
Just installed my bumper on my 2008 200. Its been on for awhile and I notice shaking and vibration on the road and trail. What gives? It has a 15k with wirerope. All 400 bolts on the entire bumper/bracket are torqued down TIGHT! Am I just seeing the vibration between body and frame?
Yes. My 100 and every other body on frame vehicle with a steel bumper I've ever been in does that to some degree, some more some less.
Is there anyone with a White LC 200 with an ARB one that can share a photo of the front pls?
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Anyone know what happened to dtt255?
I'm picking his wife found out how much he had really spent on mods.
I really appreciate the post! This is an awesome looking setup. The gap doesn’t bother me personally and if that is what they recommend then I would go with it. I have a question about where the winch ropes are connected: Is that a secure location for a 15,000 lb winch? I have seen heavy duty braces that are welded on and wonder if they are needed. Also, do you need a second battery for the winch?I was actually going to say that if/when I get a 200 and order the bumper for it I was going to cut the trim lines of the tupperware much closer to the edge of the ARB. Maybe they can make some sort of piece (gasket) that attaches to the plastic but extends farther out to the bumper itself ?? I think they should have definitely disclosed that there was going to be a gap between the plastic and the bull bar !!
I'd really like to hear what Slee has to say about their explanation about the flexing, etc..If anyone has firsthand experience in these matters, it would be he. His hands might be somewhat tied though, since he is an ARB dealer.
Keep us updated on this Dtt...Very interested to see how this unfolds !!!!
scottm
SILVER Star
My bumper has arrived, thanks @sleeoffroad !! It sits at a machine building shop I used to work at, I get home late Sunday, hoping to start install on Monday while the shop is empty.
What about using these edge trims instead of the supplied trim: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/edge-trim/water-and-weather-resistant-rubber-push-on-seals-with-rubber-wiper/ Maybe use something like ski-saver clear tape on the painted top of the bumper, so the rubber doesn't wear the paint down?
Does everyone hang the bumper, measure and transfer and cut? Nobody has a template?
What about using these edge trims instead of the supplied trim: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/edge-trim/water-and-weather-resistant-rubber-push-on-seals-with-rubber-wiper/ Maybe use something like ski-saver clear tape on the painted top of the bumper, so the rubber doesn't wear the paint down?
Does everyone hang the bumper, measure and transfer and cut? Nobody has a template?
RET2
SILVER Star
As much as we would like to think that they would all be perfectly alike they're not so your method will probably yield the best results.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
PDF of fitting instructions for ARB Summit Bar
Looking at the fitting instruction manual for my 2016+ Summit bar, I agree with others that the black and white pictures leave much to be desired for readability. A couple of other threads mentioned downloads of a color manual but did not have a link. Using a commercially available search engine that begins with 'g', I found the following link. ARB Fitting Instructions It has a part number of 3789515 whereas the one that just arrived with my Summit bar has part number 3415250. The PDF is 27 pages and the black and white printed one is 26 pages. Differences begin on page 12 where the printed manual has the lower half of the page blank and the color PDF there is a new step 41 showing the camera relocation kit that has moved the camera to the grill. Steps 42 and 43 have moved to below this picture on the bottom of page 12. There are a few other differences and I am glad that I have both copies. I appreciate the OP of this thread and recently, @scottm for his recent 2016+ install thread.
Looking at the fitting instruction manual for my 2016+ Summit bar, I agree with others that the black and white pictures leave much to be desired for readability. A couple of other threads mentioned downloads of a color manual but did not have a link. Using a commercially available search engine that begins with 'g', I found the following link. ARB Fitting Instructions It has a part number of 3789515 whereas the one that just arrived with my Summit bar has part number 3415250. The PDF is 27 pages and the black and white printed one is 26 pages. Differences begin on page 12 where the printed manual has the lower half of the page blank and the color PDF there is a new step 41 showing the camera relocation kit that has moved the camera to the grill. Steps 42 and 43 have moved to below this picture on the bottom of page 12. There are a few other differences and I am glad that I have both copies. I appreciate the OP of this thread and recently, @scottm for his recent 2016+ install thread.
