Official 37" and up picture thread (9 Viewers)

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Good info, thanks guys. So many options know over what I had on round 1. Talking to Dave at Delta it sounds like his 4” arms give about 3/4” -1” shift forward if I remember right. Going to start there. My welding skills are less than stellar. I would have never considered a body lift but it is making sense on what you can gain from it on the 80 in other ways so ultimately leaning that way and have the blocks and new body mounts already,
If one of my SLEE arms wasn’t welded I would back them out to test fit the forward shift but I done busted one out a long time ago. May grind the weld and get it safe to test the stuff and turning before moving the mounts if it comes to it
You may want to confirm the distance 4” delta arms will move the axle forward. My 6” arms moved my axle forward barely 3/4”. Recently a member I know, don’t know if he posted this info, took delivery of a set of 4” delta arms and they measure something like 1/4” , or maybe less, longer than the stock arms. Quality control inconsistencies? Possibly, but it’s worth reconfirming with Dave.
I finally got a definitive spec on those Delta arms today in a Email.

Stock arms are ~36.2
2” arms are ~0.05" longer
4” arms are ~0.25" longer
6” arms are ~0.41" longer

As for as fitting 37s in the front, I believe you could clear the fire wall & exhaust with .25" forward & 2.5" bump stops with uncut fenders. It will defiantly be very close depends on wheel backspacing also.
I'm sure some folks can pipe in that have this combination of items...
I'm clearing the firewall & exhaust with 1" forward on 38s with an equivalent of 2" lowered bump stops (1" bump plus a 1" body lift). I also have cut fenders. modified the front section of fenderwell.
 
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Personally I wouldn't do a body lift taller than 1" but a 1" body lift put minimal increase of leverage on the hardware and if you're using grade8 hardware it will be completely safe. 1" BL also doesn't require modifications to steering and shifter linkage and relocation of bumpers etc.

Are you Slee arms the old tube ones or the newer billet ones?

Listen to this guy......

I was running a 2" body lift on my 91 and over time I ended up cracking the body above a body mount twice. Once under the front passenger floor and once on the rear most driver side.

I totalled that rig earlier this year and the body got way jacked up where the body mounts were.

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So I won a set of 5 BFGOODRICH tires at Panamint Valley Days 2020 raffle up to 37s, being that I already have 38s I asked if I could upgrade to 39s. They approved my request minus the 5th tire. New tires showed up yesterday so I had to make room in the garage until these 38s wear down.😁

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@mazder those 33s o_O look to have a much skinnier tread width than the 38s. They might fit better.
 
Nice, welcome.
Those look like stock steelies with DIY locks on there... are they 8" wide now?
I didn’t measure them but something like that. They seem to be working out so far without spacers.
 
They’re Tacoma steelies with TMI Weld-on beadlocks
Hose look pretty cool and are definitely different. What is the width and back spacing of the wheels?
 
Hose look pretty cool and are definitely different. What is the width and back spacing of the wheels?
I didn't measure them but the internet says they're 7.5" wide (stock) with 4.5" backspace before welding on the TMI Beadlocks.
 
I’m still running 37’s. Many nuns have perished, but it was worth it. Haven’t had to do any work beyond my quarter panel trimming that I did for the rear bumper years ago, but 4.5” lifts are way better than 3” lifts. I still want to do rear leafs, front 3-link, 6” lift, and 40’s. But I won’t.

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