OEM rood rack 8020 rail upgrade.
- Thread starter tincan45
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks - No plans of making more at the moment.
However, I'm currently looking for a set of black LC rails if anyone has a set laying around.
@tincan45 , or anyone else for that matter....how do you think this compares in terms of load capacity (both dynamic and static) to something like the Frontrunner racks? The only thing I can find on their website is non-information like "the capacity depends on how many crossbars you use" but never gives any hard numbers or at least none that I can find. I love the idea of saving a lot of money and would enjoy the challenge of building my own but I don't want to put the time and $150 in to build three rails if it's not going to be cost-effective. In other words, should I put that $150 towards a Frontrunner, Gobi, Gamiviti, etc. for long term use?
Initially, I think I'll be using it mostly for things like MaxTrax, kayak, luggage, shovel. Maybe in a year or so add an awning and some lights. Maybe add an RTT down the road.
Another question for you @tincan45 ...... Are the tops of the crossbars higher than the fin in the back? Just trying to determine if there would be an issue with something long and flat on the rack, like an RTT.
Whatever the answers are to the above questions, amazing job and fantastic tutorial. Well done!
Initially, I think I'll be using it mostly for things like MaxTrax, kayak, luggage, shovel. Maybe in a year or so add an awning and some lights. Maybe add an RTT down the road.
Another question for you @tincan45 ...... Are the tops of the crossbars higher than the fin in the back? Just trying to determine if there would be an issue with something long and flat on the rack, like an RTT.
Whatever the answers are to the above questions, amazing job and fantastic tutorial. Well done!
- Thread starter
- #24
Hey @BigMF
To my knowledge it doesn't matter what rack you install. They don't change the factory load ratings. That's not to say aftermarket rack won't give you a ton of options, extra space and higher "static" load capabilities.
My 80/20 rails were extremely solid. I have since removed them because I switched to LC rails and they no longer fit. My plan is to build a second version of these rails but I'm going to make a couple changes...
1) Make a milled plate that will still allow me to use the OEM rail slots (for safety and support), but I want to raise the 80/20 about an inch to clear the top of the factory rail. This will address your RTT concern. It will also raise the load from the roof about an inch. It's very close the the roof in the current design.
2) The factory rails (especially the LC rails) have a natural arch matching the contour of the roof. I plan to make the 80/20 rail plate height adjustable so you can create a level platform between the factory rails.
Takeaway....
It would have been cheaper/better buy an aftermarket option if I factor in my time and the cost of shipping for LC rails and misc parts. Having said that, there is still a big part of me that really wants a more "stealthy" rooftop option so I'm going to proceed with version 2. Unfortunately, it's not on the priority list right now as I've moved on to my power system and onboard air for the next month or so. I hope to have version 2 done before LCDC.
BTW...My LX 8020 rails are just sitting in my garage. If anyone wants them, let me know.
To my knowledge it doesn't matter what rack you install. They don't change the factory load ratings. That's not to say aftermarket rack won't give you a ton of options, extra space and higher "static" load capabilities.
My 80/20 rails were extremely solid. I have since removed them because I switched to LC rails and they no longer fit. My plan is to build a second version of these rails but I'm going to make a couple changes...
1) Make a milled plate that will still allow me to use the OEM rail slots (for safety and support), but I want to raise the 80/20 about an inch to clear the top of the factory rail. This will address your RTT concern. It will also raise the load from the roof about an inch. It's very close the the roof in the current design.
2) The factory rails (especially the LC rails) have a natural arch matching the contour of the roof. I plan to make the 80/20 rail plate height adjustable so you can create a level platform between the factory rails.
Takeaway....
It would have been cheaper/better buy an aftermarket option if I factor in my time and the cost of shipping for LC rails and misc parts. Having said that, there is still a big part of me that really wants a more "stealthy" rooftop option so I'm going to proceed with version 2. Unfortunately, it's not on the priority list right now as I've moved on to my power system and onboard air for the next month or so. I hope to have version 2 done before LCDC.
BTW...My LX 8020 rails are just sitting in my garage. If anyone wants them, let me know.
Last edited:
Maybe you can use them in a drawer system? Or as cross rails in you v2 platform?
- Thread starter
- #26
I thought about that. Either way, I'm not real concerned. I've wasted a lot more on a lot less!
Thanks for all the details. I'll be doing this sometime this summer, too.
From a weight perspective, it's might be overkill, but from a usability perspective, it's the bare minimum IMO. Having three channels for mounting hardware, and especially the centre channel is very important.
I previously had a Prinsu rack on my Tacoma. The Prinsu came with narrower load bars that only had two channels (neither centred). I ran into an issue when mounting ski racks which had a curved bottom (to "wrap" around most cross bars): there was no way to get the ski rack to sit flat due to each mounting channel (in the extruded aluminum) being off centre.
From a weight perspective, it's might be overkill, but from a usability perspective, it's the bare minimum IMO. Having three channels for mounting hardware, and especially the centre channel is very important.
I previously had a Prinsu rack on my Tacoma. The Prinsu came with narrower load bars that only had two channels (neither centred). I ran into an issue when mounting ski racks which had a curved bottom (to "wrap" around most cross bars): there was no way to get the ski rack to sit flat due to each mounting channel (in the extruded aluminum) being off centre.
- Thread starter
- #28
Good to know. I agree, the convenience of the 1x3 is nice and VERY rigid. I'll probably be using 1x3 or on the next build too. The final weight of each rail was less than 5.5 lbs so weight was not really a factor after all.
RET2
SILVER Star
The potential drawback to using stock rails is they are not straight and match curvature of the roofline. This can be overcome by compensating the rise of each point of attachment?
- Thread starter
- #30
Yep - that's included in the v2 design. Can't decide if I'm going to have two fixed hole placements or a slotted design that's adjustable.
- Thread starter
- #31
V2 design can be found here. I basically abandoned the setup above in favor of a more utilitarian design.
forum.ih8mud.com
T Strut (8020) roof rack - Version 2
Hi Folks, Thought would take a minute and post the the second version of my attempt at a functional factory roof rack option. So far, this one checks all the boxes. It's functional, quiet and cost effective. The original rack rails had one big problem...low clearance. This version elevates the...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #33
I don't see why not. Take pics if you do.
FWIW, Unistrut/superstrut camming nuts fit the siderails slots. 1/4" are thinner (better for GX slots), but 3/8" are a scosh thicker and easitly fitt in 100's siderails slots.
I have these data in my build, and a buddy modded Rhino-Rack's universal awning bracket to mount on stock siderails for his hundi (Rhino-Rack camming nuts are metric whereas unistrut is standard...I'm sure McMaster or Grainger could source metric nuts).
pull spring off, or remove plastic keeper.
great build, utilitarian concept, looking forward to reviewing V 2.0
I have these data in my build, and a buddy modded Rhino-Rack's universal awning bracket to mount on stock siderails for his hundi (Rhino-Rack camming nuts are metric whereas unistrut is standard...I'm sure McMaster or Grainger could source metric nuts).
pull spring off, or remove plastic keeper.
great build, utilitarian concept, looking forward to reviewing V 2.0
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
Mine sit just under the side rails. I used 10-30 series. Had I used 15 series or 20 series they’d likely sit above.
I plan on running two new 10-20 or 10-30 rails length-wise and oriented so that the 20 side is vertical for awning and other attachments. Also will add a wind fairing.
I plan on running two new 10-20 or 10-30 rails length-wise and oriented so that the 20 side is vertical for awning and other attachments. Also will add a wind fairing.
Last edited:
