Not getting fire

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77ToyFJ40

77ToyFJ40

Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Threads
39
Messages
100
Location
Albertson, North carolina
I'm trying to get my 1977 fj40 cranked that's been sitting for close to 30 years. I have replaced the coil and plugs and wires. I have verified that I am getting power to the coil and out of the coil and to the distributor. What could the issue be? I've already ordered a set of points I'm waiting on them to come in.
 
I'm hoping you pulled the plugs, put in some Marvel's Mystery oil in each jug and let it soak for a day or two, then used the starter to spin it over until it built oil pressure.

Not to late to do that now. I'd connect some fresh gas to the carb for the test run. You should pull and clean the gas tank. Take apart every electrical connection you can find - inspect wire for corrosion, clean both contacts and then lube with some di-electric grease.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
I'm hoping you pulled the plugs, put in some Marvel's Mystery oil in each jug and let it soak for a day or two, then used the starter to spin it over until it built oil pressure.

Not to late to do that now. I'd connect some fresh gas to the carb for the test run. You should pull and clean the gas tank. Take apart every electrical connection you can find - inspect wire for corrosion, clean both contacts and then lube with some di-electric grease.
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I honestly wasn't watching for oil pressure when I was turning it over. But I've been putting marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes for the last few years to make sure it weren't locked up. It has a new gas tank and new rubber fuel lines.
 
So I would pull the dizzy cap and scrape the inside contacts, aluminum ones quickly build up a thick layer of oxide that acts as an insulator, scrape the edge of the rotor bug too. Check the static timing after putting in your new points/condenser (be sure to clean the new points contacts to remove the protective coating.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
So I would pull the dizzy cap and scrape the inside contacts, aluminum ones quickly build up a thick layer of oxide that acts as an insulator, scrape the edge of the rotor bug too. Check the static timing after putting in your new points/condenser (be sure to clean the new points contacts to remove the protective coating.
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I scraped the contacts didn't help
 
77ToyFJ40 said:
I have verified that I am getting power to the coil and out of the coil and to the distributor.
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Next step is get one of these or similar and see if you're getting power to each spark plug wire.

Then go from there. If you are getting spark, then move to fuel or timing issues. If not, then work through dizzy issue.
 
77ToyFJ40 said:
Still no spark
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Thank you, I was going to assume that was the answer, but its better to know for sure, otherwise we would be just guessing and possibly guessing on the diagnosis too. The wire on the neg side of the coil goes to the dist and connects thru the body of it, and connects to the insulated connection at at the points. The stationary side of the points is the ground. Be sure the wire going to the points is not grounding out anywhere and the connection to the points is not grounding anywhere. The points are nothing more than a switch. When the points are closed the secondary wiring in the coil is energizing and when the points open, the coil releases its energy and fires spark thru the coil tower wire which flows to the center dist cap terminal which distributes the spark to the rotor and then to the appropriate plug. When the points open you maybe able to see a small spark. You need to adjust the point gap when the points are on its highest point of the hex or use a dwell meter to set them.
 
The contacts of the points need to be clean. New ones might have a protective coating that will need to be removed before they will work. A points file is the correct tool, however the striking surface of a book of matches will work. Tear off the "sand paper", insert it in between points contacts. Pull/push it back and forth a few times. Take it out and reinsert it facing the other way to clean the other point. With the points open and on top of the bump, you should be able to stick the match book cover in the gap - a feeler's gauge is the proper tool to actually set the specified gap. Your dwell meter will allow you to exactly set the gap.

I'm sure you can find a good vid to show you how to do this.

The cap could be bad - a hair line crack can short it out. Points could be burnt or out of adjustment. Capacitor could be bad. Make sure the rotor bug moves when the engine is turning; if not bad distributor gear or the distributor isn't fully seated. When cranking the engine it should show oil pressure after a few tries at starting - yes, then a good chance the dizzy is seated correctly. No, be happy that its not starting because without oil pressure you will ruin expensive stuff in short order. Does your unit have an igniter?
 
charliemeyer007 said:
The contacts of the points need to be clean. New ones might have a protective coating that will need to be removed before they will work. A points file is the correct tool, however the striking surface of a book of matches will work. Tear off the "sand paper", insert it in between points contacts. Pull/push it back and forth a few times. Take it out and reinsert it facing the other way to clean the other point. With the points open and on top of the bump, you should be able to stick the match book cover in the gap - a feeler's gauge is the proper tool to actually set the specified gap. Your dwell meter will allow you to exactly set the gap.

I'm sure you can find a good vid to show you how to do this.

The cap could be bad - a hair line crack can short it out. Points could be burnt or out of adjustment. Capacitor could be bad. Make sure the rotor bug moves when the engine is turning; if not bad distributor gear or the distributor isn't fully seated. When cranking the engine it should show oil pressure after a few tries at starting - yes, then a good chance the dizzy is seated correctly. No, be happy that its not starting because without oil pressure you will ruin expensive stuff in short order. Does your unit have an igniter?
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The rotor does turn when turning the engine over and there is a igniter
 
How much voltage do you have at the points?
 
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Make sure the breaker plate (where the points mount) has good ground to the distributor body. There's usually a braided copper strap attached to the plate and to the body. Also, get a new condensor, the quality of condensors has been suspect in recent years, so get an OEM one if you can. Then make sure it is connected properly to the point arm (spring). If installed incorrectly, they can short the points to ground.
 
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