No start, 3FE. Please help.

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S

Satchmo

Joined
Sep 25, 2005
Threads
3
Messages
48
Location
Sacramento CA
Hello,

Pulled out of the driveway the other day, and made it 100 yards before the engine cut off and would not start again. Checked the codes, got "No NE/G signal". Was getting no spark, so I followed the " EFI woe and strife" troubleshooter I have seen on here. Found that one of the distributor pickups was open! Put in a new distributor that tested good-- but still no start :(

Put in a new ignitor- no start.
Put in a new coil (old one had primary resistance of 0.6 ohms)- no start.
Put in a new EFI relay- no start.
CEL is on with ignition switched to on.

The thing cranks fine, but I am still getting no spark. I am at a loss as to what I should check/change next.
 
Is the fuel pump getting power?have you checked fuel pressure ?
 
Milkm4n said:
Is the fuel pump getting power?have you checked fuel pressure ?
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Fuel pump is getting power. Didn't check exact fuel pressure, but I can feel pressure build up in the fuel return hose.

I am getting a lit test lamp at the power source for the ignition coil, both with ignition on and when cranking. The coil is new. The high-tension cord from the coil is also at ~5k ohms, as are the cords to the plugs. All connections look tight, but I am getting no spark. I am pulling my hair out!
 
sea bass said:
What about your ecm your getting fuel, your getting spark maybe your ecm is not telling the plugs to fire
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This is where I am going to look tomorrow. I am going to disconnect and closely inspect all wires relating to ignition, tracing them back to the ECU, particularly the NE/G terminals (from the distributor). I suspect something just got toasted after these 24 years :D
 
I checked all of the wires headed to the ECU:

From Distributor: NE, G, G- all good
From Igniter: IGF, IGT- all good

All my wiring and fuses look good. I am at the point where swapping out the ECU seems like the last thing to do. Is there any way to know if the ECU is at fault, other than trying a new one? Would like to save myself a couple hundred $$ if possible.
 
I have to wonder if the new distributor is actually good even though you stated it tested good. The original one was the problem and now still a no start. After your tests above I would not rule that out. The other thought could be as all the other parts were changed, possibly one of them (coil?) is bad as well. Very frustrating to say the least.
 
Circuit opening Relay!
Check it out!
20161127_190600.webp
 
family 80 said:
have you checked the ignition switch?
Click to expand...
On to that tomorrow! Thanks for giving me something to do :D

red mud fj said:
Circuit opening Relay!
Check it out!View attachment 1358273
Click to expand...
I'll test that! Where is this relay found, is it in the same black box where the EFI main is? Found the procedure in my FSM, but I could not find this diagram. Can you tell me what page/section you found it on? Thanks for shooting a picture in the meantime!

Edit: Found it in the fuel system section.
 
Not to sound like a jerk, but I thought the circuit opening relay was only associated with the fuel pump? You have no spark, then I have to question why fuel related issues are being addressed?
 
Last edited:
SUMMIT CRUISERS said:
Not to sound like a jerk, but I thought the circuit opening relay was only associated with the fuel pump? You have no spark, then I have to question whey fuel related issues are being addressed?
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Yes, I realized that it is only related to fuel delivery last night. You don't sound like a jerk--more like a reasonable guy I would say ;)

So outside of the distributor, coil, and igniter, is there anything that I can check that would cause no spark? Is it possible for the ignition switch to initiate cranking, but not ignition? I am under the impression that the only thing left is the ECU, but I am going to test the new distributor again today just to make sure. Everything else seems to be in order.
 
More diagnostic help from @jonheld and @LS1FJ40
 
Is the igniter you put in "new" or "new to you"? Is it known to be good?

I'm not at technically savvy as Jon. But are you POSITIVE the distributor isn't 180* off? You replaced the distributor, correct?
 
what about the fuseable links at the battery post. does anyone know the part number for those. i'm thinking about getting a set just in case. ive heard about those going out.
 
LS1FJ40 said:
Is the igniter you put in "new" or "new to you"? Is it known to be good?

I'm not at technically savvy as Jon. But are you POSITIVE the distributor isn't 180* off? You replaced the distributor, correct?
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It is brand new! Aftermarket, but new.

I did install the distributor myself, with some help. We pulled a plug, cranked engine to TDC, and aligned/dropped in the distributor according to the FSM, at which point the rotor was pointing to the #1 contact when installed. Cranking the engine with the cap off, you can see the rotor turning.

I have tried the new cap and rotor, as well as the old cap and rotor.
LS1FJ40 said:
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf

Is this the diagnostics you followed?
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Yes, that is the one, as well as anything additional I may have found in the FSM. I double checked everything yesterday, and the old distributor indeed shows an open NE-G- pickup. The new one tests good.

I also pulled the terminals at the ECU. There is continuity for all 3 distributor wires (NE, G, G-), as well as the 2 igniter wires (IGT, IGF I believe)

family 80 said:
what about the fuseable links at the battery post. does anyone know the part number for those. i'm thinking about getting a set just in case. ive heard about those going out.
Click to expand...
Fusible links are good! I believe we tested them with a lamp.
 
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