Newbie impressions and newbie questions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 11, 2019
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20
Messages
213
Location
Norcal
In my first week of LX470 ownership, never had a car this tall or bulky before. Just as a reminder I bought this at 220k miles for $6700 from the first owner, it has always been in the Bay Area. PPI was fine, no rust and mechanically sound. The interior was pretty dirty, but nothing a detail won't fix. NO maintenance records, bought on the basis of the carfax and lexus records, although basic maintenance seemed regular.

I think unlike a lot of people here, I got this car as a 'beater'; a replacement for my 05 Accord after the Accord was totaled and I $5000 for it. I was looking to use it to get another car for not too much more, where I wouldn't have to worry about banging up, and could run into the ground. I think I should have paused to consider the amount of maintenance a LC will require versus a sedan or a Honda Element. My main criteria were (1) enough vertical room to be able to sit in the cargo area, (2) a tailgate, and (3) quiet ride. The LX really only won out because of criteria #3, although obviously they are very different vehicles.

I love the powerful acceleration from a full stop, although the highway overtaking ability is poor (used to a hybrid Highlander). It's very quiet at speed (except for a third-party improperly installed windshield causing some wind noise). I took it for the some light offroading yesterday and had a huge grin on my face. The steering wheel is a bit stiffer than what I'm used to (again, a Highlander and a sedan). Used the tailgate to eat lunch with my daughter at the park today. She loves it, because it affords her a panoramic view from her carseat in the second row. Taking it for an oil change tomorrow, they are the local Toyota/Lexus experts and will do a basic inspection as well. What I really want to do know is what maintenance needs are pressing/highest priority, and what is the state of the front suspension. Will start working on baselining, starting with heater Ts and AHC fluid.

As for my questions:

1. How aggressively can you take turns in this thing? Relative risk of rollovers? I mean, it's an SUV and not a sedan, so what can it do? And what's the signal to back off? Tires squealing?

2. If the regular LC suspension is stiffer, does that mean there's even less body roll than the 'sport' setting on the AHC? Cause there's significant body roll even on 'sport' mode, and I wonder if it will improve if I change out the AHC fluid.

3. I have the transmission clunk/thud. If it turns out to be nothing more than driveline slack and lack of grease in the U joints/slip yoke, can I get rid myself of the feeling that I somehow have to baby it? Every time I hear/feel that clunk I get a little wary. It even happens if I let off the gas and coast.

4. Although generally quiet, it's very 'boomy' when going over certain kinds of bumps and cracks in the road. Is this something that can be improved with dynamat and carpet in the cargo area?

5. I use this as a daily driver where my commute is less than 2 miles - and I come home for lunch. Is it awful that I don't let it warm up?
 
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1. How aggressively can you take turns in this thing? Relative risk of rollovers? I mean, it's an SUV and not a sedan, so what can it do? And what's the signal to back off? Tires squealing?

2. If the regular LC suspension is stiffer, does that mean there's even less body roll than the 'sport' setting on the AHC? Cause there's significant body roll even on 'sport' mode, and I wonder if it will improve if I change out the AHC fluid.

3. I have the transmission clunk/thud. If it turns out to be nothing more than driveline slack and lack of grease in the U joints/slip yoke, can I get rid myself of the feeling that I somehow have to baby it? Every time I hear/feel that clunk I get a little wary. It even happens if I let off the gas and coast.

4. Although generally quiet, it's very 'boomy' when going over certain kinds of bumps and cracks in the road. Is this something that can be improved with dynamat and carpet in the cargo area?

5. I use this as a daily driver where my commute is less than 2 miles - and I come home for lunch. Is it awful that I don't let it warm up?

1.. I will let someone else answer this. Buy BMW to take corners.
2. Same as #1
3. I suggest not pay attention if you want to "just run truck to the ground". Otherwise it will cost you as much as truck since you are not DIY.
4. Same as #3
5. I wouldn't worry about it given it's a beater. Everything else should go before this engine "due to not warming up"
 
1. The VSC nanny and wheel braking and the beeping lets you know when to stop. It drives me crazy because I drive this truck hard into the corners. When on gravel I engage the center diff lock and go full world rally. Loads of fun. I have a 2.5 inch heavy lift.
2. Yes, the lc suspension is stiffer and some have wheeler bump stops and would probably handle even better
3. I have had 6 100s and all had the clunk and never had an issue. I accelerate and push on these trucks and they can take it.
4. Yes
5. Not an issue except that you will have to replace the large muffler more often because of condensation

Be careful with Toyota experts, you could spend $6700 in a blink on this LX. If it were me, I would drive it and see what happens. You do need a timing belt every 100k miles. I would also try to find a shop that specializes in LC/LXs, these are not like the others in the line up. Over built and usually require little to keep running. And yes the maintenance will be more than those econo cars you are use too. If something breaks, it is expensive to fix. Mud can help with most.
 
that thud could also be the front Diff mount rubber bushing is shot. $40 part but some labor and tools to take it out. It made the thump go away and accelerates faster since it's not waiting for the diff to rock into a stopped position.

enjoy your truck, also replace heat hose tee as #1

huge threads on both listed in this forum.
 
that thud could also be the front Diff mount rubber bushing is shot. $40 part but some labor and tools to take it out. It made the thump go away and accelerates faster since it's not waiting for the diff to rock into a stopped position.

enjoy your truck, also replace heat hose tee as #1

huge threads on both listed in this forum.
Do you have a part number for the bushing? I would like to do this to my 100.
 
#3: Top of my list would be to inspect the front wheel bearings, hub flanges, and outboard shafts of CV driveaxles. The wheel bearings are supposed to be cleaned and repacked/replaced every 30k miles. This is often done improperly and too infrequently, which causes excessive play in the bearings, leading to unnecessary wear on other components. Additionally, the splines on the outboard CV axle shafts and inside the hub flanges wear over time and are a notorious cause of the 'clunk'. If you're still on the originals CV axles and hub flanges at 220k, then they likely need replaced when the wheel bearings are repacked/replaced. Read this thread and anything else related to wheel bearings by 2001LC: Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints W/Surprises!
 
#3: Top of my list would be to inspect the front wheel bearings, hub flanges, and outboard shafts of CV driveaxles. The wheel bearings are supposed to be cleaned and repacked/replaced every 30k miles. This is often done improperly and too infrequently, which causes excessive play in the bearings, leading to unnecessary wear on other components. Additionally, the splines on the outboard CV axle shafts and inside the hub flanges wear over time and are a notorious cause of the 'clunk'. If you're still on the originals CV axles and hub flanges at 220k, then they likely need replaced when the wheel bearings are repacked/replaced. Read this thread and anything else related to wheel bearings by 2001LC: Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints W/Surprises!

Man all of this is certainly beyond my time and tool availability, as well as my wrenching ability. How would I go about getting this looked at and taken care of someone in a manner that prioritizes what's most important? How would I look for the right mechanic to do this work?
 
How would I go about getting this looked at and taken care of someone in a manner that prioritizes what's most important? How would I look for the right mechanic to do this work?
Figure out which Cruiser Club is in your area of NorCal (North American Clubhouses - West Region) and then post in there that you’re looking for a trustworthy mechanic with 100 series experience to do said work. I’d bet there’s a Cruiserhead relatively local to you that has the necessary experience and would do the work for less cost than a shop or dealer.
 
On my LX when I set it to full Sport mode the truck stays very flat even in turns and corners, I use that mode on the freeway to help with any sudden, unexpected lane changes. Makes me think your system may need some maintenance, perhaps the fluid as you said.
 
On my LX when I set it to full Sport mode the truck stays very flat even in turns and corners, I use that mode on the freeway to help with any sudden, unexpected lane changes. Makes me think your system may need some maintenance, perhaps the fluid as you said.
It IS pretty flat, I think I just need to adjust my expectations for something of this size. And there's a fair bit of bounce when I have the suspension set all the way to the left, so clearly its working. I re-checked my AHC and I have ~9+ gradations on the L to H test. All the same I think I might see a difference once I exchange the fluid, which I'm fairly sure has never been done.
 
you drive it 6 miles a day and have $5k in it. change your oil once a year and enjoy your ride.
 
Haha. I mean, I can't NOT take care of it, I do want to take it off road occasionally. It bugs me not to know what is the current state of the front end, and wheel bearings, for example, sound pretty important.

(Also I have $6700, no, $7200 and counting...)
 

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