New to me: '66 FJ40

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Well, looking in the SOR catalog again, it seems that I have the '75-'80 style motor mount and I do have it upside down. Stud down, bolt up. The '80-'87 has studs top and bottom. I'm assuming that fitment will be an issue either way, so I think I'll just elongate the holes on both the left and right sides of the frame mounts and flip the motor mounts over while I'm at it. Project for tomorrow night I guess.
 
Nice to see things are coming together on the 40...hope we see it at CMCC.
 
Thanks guys. Yeah, got the mount figured out and did end up extending the mount holes. Fits good now. Have to lay out the transmission mount and get the holes drilled for that. It's coming along. Hope to have it ready for CMCC or at least on the road by that time. I'll be at CMCC even if it's just as a passenger. People ask how long till it's done. I tell them it will be done in about $3000. Low estimate I'm sure.

Still have some final body work on the tub once it's back on the frame, lockers (ARB front, aussie or lockright rear), need to get the Saginaw installed, 4x4 labs hi-steer setup, brakes, cut-n-turn, fab the front and rear bumpers, winch, full cage with frame tie-ins, skid plates, anti-wrap bar, paint and wiring. I have some 33" rubber for it, but am now thinking 35 or 37. Then to get it registered. Other than that, I'm about done.
 
Wow, so close to being finished! :D
 
Here are a few I have with me here at work. Well, the engine and trans look better than they did in post #55.
I have some Mustard Yellow coming this week so I can get the firewall painted before putting the tub in place. I used Rust Bullet on the frame along with a topcoat. Should last a month or two in the weather.
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In the attached picture:
Fig. A shows the pinion flange parallel with the transmission flange.
Fig. B shows the pinion flange pointing directly at the transmission flange.

Question: Since I don't want to run a DC (double cardian), do I want to set up the front axle as depicted in Fig. A?
How about the rear? Maybe somewhere in between A & B?
I think in the rear, I need them close to parallel as I don't want the parking brake linkages to close to the ground for obvious reasons.

As an update: Will be painting the firewall one evening this week. Sure picked a nice low humidity week for this... Going with Mustard Yellow. Should get the tub on the frame this weekend.
pinion_angle.webp
 
Looking good!

Yes, you want to use option 'A' for a standard ujoint and option 'B' for a double.

kb3gun said:
In the attached picture:
Fig. A shows the pinion flange parallel with the transmission flange.
Fig. B shows the pinion flange pointing directly at the transmission flange.

Question: Since I don't want to run a DC (double cardian), do I want to set up the front axle as depicted in Fig. A?
How about the rear? Maybe somewhere in between A & B?
I think in the rear, I need them close to parallel as I don't want the parking brake linkages to close to the ground for obvious reasons.

As an update: Will be painting the firewall one evening this week. Sure picked a nice low humidity week for this... Going with Mustard Yellow. Should get the tub on the frame this weekend.
Click to expand...
 
Nothing wrong with it. I just think it would be simpler and maybe stronger without the DC. I may be wrong. It wouldn't be the first (millionth) time on this build. lol
 
Well, got a little bit more done today. Saginaw install.

Lining up the steering gearbox for the crossmember cut.
sag.JPG


Time to dust off the plasma cutter:
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Front cut was easy, back took a little while to cut out.
sag1.JPG


Test fit of the crossmember support tube.
sag3.JPG


Welded up and a coat of primer.
sag4.JPG


Every thing lines up good. Still need to cut a scab plate for the outside of the frame.
sag5.JPG


Two more days to work on it till it's back to the office. Wish we had more 3 day weekends.

Tomorrow will be more body work and a few more small holes to fill in the tub. Hope everyone that went had a good day wheeling!
 
axle angle

Bill- don't let the outputs remain parallel. Point the axle flange toward the transfer output- that way one U-joint will not be working through a steep angle. The angle of the axle has nothing to do with the angle that the U-joint at the transfer end works through.

When we did the spring over on my pig we rotated the axle to keep a straight angle through the U-joint at the axle end and that gave me a fairly steep angle for the transfer U-joint to work through. Running this way I went through a U-joint at the transfer end every year and these were good U-joints either OEM or Spicer. I went to a double cardan at the transfer end two years ago and it is a sweet setup. the DC joints are as strong as a regular joint, minimize vibration, and maximize life of the u-joints. The flip side is if you have a good shop make your new driveshaft from top quality components it ain't cheap. My front DC shaft cost almost $500 but it is a work of art- perfectly balanced and I am 100% pleased with it in every way.

Your truck looks great, have you fired the engine yet? You'll love it. gary
 
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I'll take your advice Gary and change the pinions to pointing instead of parallel. Who did you have make your shafts? Tom Woods?
 
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