New to me 60

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bcsteel said:
Another update,

got the oil changed and chased a leak. Oil pressure sender was on hand tight and as a result leaking quit ferociously.

coolant leak was same..from radiator. Hand tight clamp.

power steering belt was sorta on. Broke tensioner bolt adjusting. Had a spare. Bought another from Toyota for 4.00. Belt is now secure and pump operational

alternator same. Charging properly now

flushed coolant. Lots of heat now.

found that one of the posts on the grid heater is stripped. Forward one. The connection is barely there. Will fix that this weekend.

checked wheel bearings and brakes. Need some love. Parts in order. Front breaks are pretty pooched. Truck came with wheel bearing kits for all 4 corners.

front driveshaft bolts were on hand tight. Need to replace ujoints. Bolts were fine

rear diff breather was plugged. Not anymore.

Tcase was converted from vacuum to manual. The piece of cold rolled steel used for lever is not bent correctly and therefore will not go into 4 low. Probably a bigger can of worms than I’m aware of. Will look into that on weekend.

rear heater, rear wiper still need addressing, carpet and fender flares are coming out soon as well. Inside frame rails needs a good douching.

exhaust is kinda Sh!t

steering clunks from both sides when turning slow, OME suspension. Guessing the bushings are shot.

after a pm session with @cruiserpilot I think I’ll order a webasto heater, 24v type. Would be handy up here. Do see -25 on occasion.

love driving this thing. 12ht is a blast, especially with heat.

That’s it for now
Click to expand...
Scary. Don’t worry, there can’t be that many more loose bolts and clamps to find. ;). You’ll only have to worry about the few things the POs have messed with... :D


Have you fixed your alignment yet? In the 29 years I’ve had my cruiser I’ve only paid a shop for an alignment a couple times. I’ve found I have better luck doing alignments
with basic hand tools... in the driveway with some careful adjustments and attention to detail.

Are you familiar with the pushpin technique to measure toe in? Toe in is about the only thing that can be adjusted on a cruiser axle.

Is there a different between RHD and LHD axles? As far as I know the caster and camber are similar between LHD and RHD axles.
 
bcsteel said:
I would be interested for sure. Thanks
Click to expand...
Enough for 2 springs only
omesb1.webp
 
bikersmurf said:
Scary. Don’t worry, there can’t be that many more loose bolts and clamps to find. ;). You’ll only have to worry about the few things the POs have messed with... :D


Have you fixed your alignment yet? In the 29 years I’ve had my cruiser I’ve only paid a shop for an alignment a couple times. I’ve found I have better luck doing alignments
with basic hand tools... in the driveway with some careful adjustments and attention to detail.

Are you familiar with the pushpin technique to measure toe in? Toe in is about the only thing that can be adjusted on a cruiser axle.

Is there a different between RHD and LHD axles? As far as I know the caster and camber are similar between LHD and RHD axles.
Click to expand...
Axles are the same, but some Tre stuff is backwards. Tapered from the other side.

My 60 has a fair bit of wheel bearing play in front I need to take up. Made steering REALLY wandery with the 16's (285/75/16)
, switched back to the 15's with 33x10.5 ats and don't even notice anymore. Probably signifies something :lol:

But yeah alignments are a waste of money on these old trucks.

Only one adjustment, toe in. After that it's just recentering the steering wheel.

Method for toe adjustment I used last time that I kinda liked was to get an old broom handle cut to an inch or two shorter than fits between rims, and put a wood screw in the end of it.

Turning screw in or out makes a fine adjustment to sticks overall length. Bit of a bugger to get it in behind the axle but it'll go with some cursing. :hillbilly:
 
Push pin technique:

1) Drive forward on level ground and slowly stop
2) Push in a pin into the tread of the tire halfway up the tire on each side
3) measure the distance between the two pins
4) drive forward so that the pins are even height at the front of the tire
5) measure the distance at the front

Ideally the measurement at the front should be 1/16-1/8” less than the measurement at the rear.

The goal is for the tires to be parallel when the truck is driven down the road. With radial tires the toe in can be minimized. The more play in the steering linkages the greater toe in you’ll need.

If your wheels are toe-out, the truck will dart towards the ditches every time you hit a bump.
 
When I last replaced the whole front end linkage I took the old one off and very carefully
measured the old one and copied the length. That worked for me, I don’t think I made
any adjustments from that.
 
cruiserpilot said:
When I last replaced the whole front end linkage I took the old one off and very carefully
measured the old one and copied the length. That worked for me, I don’t think I made
any adjustments from that.
Click to expand...
On my E350, I’ve fixed the alignment after paying a shop too much money to do it. It drives 100X better than when it left the alignment shop. All I’ve had to work with was their as aligned figures (which were out of range), carpenters square, level, tape measure, my brain... Swap a couple parts, take some measurements, tweak an adjustment, test drive, tweak a couple adjustments and take a measurement and make another adjustment. The alignment is now 98% of the way there.

For the last 2% I was going to bring it to a different alignment shop from the last (rather than continuing to fiddle). Then February 2020 hit us... snd now it’s November.

For a cruiser axle only Toe can be adjusted (essentially). It’s all that needs to be fixed 98% of the time. Caster can be changed with a wedge to rotate the axle... but unless your springs are off, the axle doesn’t need to be turned.

Side to side darting is a sign of incorrect Toe-in... likely toed out.
 
Definitely getting some side darting. From brakes are quite worn, TRE are new. I’ll take measurements and see what turns up. Thanks for all the info.

Yesterday afternoon I had a bit of time, got the rear washer working, wiper motor still needs love. Internal looks good. Lots meat on the brushes. Suspect a bad ground. Power to the harness verified with a test light, 2 of the 3 wires had power. Have a spare harness in the ratty 60 I’ll pilfer later. Wife broke her multi meter and mine ended up with her at work so the rest will have to wait. Will power up the motor and see if it turns.

Got the fender flares off as well. Million little holes to weld shut now. Next nice day I’ll sort that out. Steps are next to get the ax.
 
I was gonna pop in some aluminum riv nuts and a bit of gasket sealant around edge until spring. That sounds like a better idea tho. Wife’s comment was a million little holes still looked better than those flares.
 
Take it a step further and pre-paint the plastic plugs to match... and even add a dob of sealer to keep moisture out of the holes.
 
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