New to me 1979 FJ40 - have several questions on drivability.

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Got two photos under the clutch inspection plate - one with the clutch in, one with it out. I also checked the pivot point under the dash and it seemed to move smoothly but only with a lot of pressure. I lubercated it but did not notice a difference.
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You're missing the little spring that holds the clutch fork to the throwout bearing holder...

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Had no idea about that spring - am I correct that without the spring it would cause premature wear?

I am going to order shims, do I need to pair them? (front and rear). Also I see they mention with and without pins? Does it matter?

Also how do I determine how "extended" my shackles are? It is a bit of a challenge figuring everything out that was done before I owned it and what is incorrect. Also with 33's are shackles a preferred method to lift it to clear, or are new springs a better idea (down the road)?

Here are some more photos as requested. (Front is first, rear is 2nd). I do not see a shim so I am guessing they skipped that)
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Thank you all for all the help and information!!!!
 
I would guess by looking at your 1st pic, you have lift springs and extended shackles. I believe stk shackles are around 2 3/4" center to center. With lift springs you have to run longer shackles to a point, to allow the spring to flatten out while under compression. You'll need a pr of shims for the front.
 
All you need for the quirky steering (to start, cause its cheap and easy)

Install some 4 degree steel shims and get a professional alignment.

Show us some pics of the front ubolt plate so we can see if any shims are there.


You need shims for sure, but no reason to pay for professional alignement , it is easy to set the toe and caster

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when installing the shims, make certain you put them in facing correctly
depending on how long the bolt head of the center pin in the spring is, you want the center pin long enough to go through the shim and locate the hole in the axle pad/mount
 
How long are your shackles center bolt to center bolt?

The shackles are 4.5" from center of bolt to center of bolt.

when installing the shims, make certain you put them in facing correctly
depending on how long the bolt head of the center pin in the spring is, you want the center pin long enough to go through the shim and locate the hole in the axle pad/mount

Does the thick part of the shim face the rear or the front? Online I seen it mentioined both ways so I wanted to make sure I dont make a mistake.

Your shackle are not 3" , look more like 4.5" or 5" long to me , no need for more than 3.5" or 4" , just get rid of those badly designed and too long you have now
You’re right - 4.5". Will a 4" allow the 33x12.50 to fit still? (They came on it and are brand new so really hate to change them right now) They do catch the side of the spring on a tight turn. That is another little issue to address after I get all the other things repaired. What shackle is better?

On another note - I also ordered the stuff I need to level that drivers set out a bit. It is a weird angle!
THANKS again everyone!!
 
My FJ40 (1975) had a Saginaw power steering conversion when I got it and the wandering was very uncomfortable to drive over 50mph. Read about the shims 2 yrs ago and just bought a set of 4* caster shims. WOW. Just what a major improvement this made. My entire driveline is re-done and when @Jdc1 did the steering knuckles he dropped it off at an alignment shop for a check with the laser.

The tech at the shop commented how the +3* now listed on the readout was not going to work for the vehicle… Jesse said it’s perfect…. AND IT IS!!

This past fall I changed everything to the Terrain Tamer suspension. Before bolting the new springs I add the 4* shims from the old springs.. still perfect steering and I have tested the truck at 80mph…no steering damper and it is perfect. If you do it with the springs on the truck…. C-clamp the stack , place the shim, thick side to the front, add the new extended bolt and u-bolt it back in place

I’m no young guy with a s#itty knee replacement and 2 rotator cuff repairs and it was no problem
 
A 1" shorter shackle will not lower the front end much, but I would just do the shim first, that may be all you need. One thing at a time.

Thick side to the front, don't forget to make sure a new center pin is included (just to reiterate)

12.5 wide tires are -too- wide for an FJ40 IMO, I'd sell them and get some 33x10.5 tires. They won't grab road imperfections as bad either.
 
@Code54 , the fat side of the shim goes towards the front, rotating the top of the knuckles pivot point back, as depicted in the sketch on caster angle in post #13. Whatever amount you shorten or lengthen a shackle will lower or raise the front of the vehicle by 1/2 as much. So if you install a shackle that's an inch shorter the front will be lower by a 1/2". Your tires should still fit.
 
Thank you, that helps a lot.

I checked the angle today
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It looks like it is right at 3 degress, so I ordered the 4 degree shim as you all mentioned. I am really excited to install the shims this weekend and see how it does.

The new clutch is also on its way so I am really hoping that soon as both are installed a lot of my issues will go away.

Is there a certain way to check and set the toe on the FJ's.

I am going to look at getting rid of 33x12.5 and getting some 33x 10.5 next month.
 
4 will get you to +1, a little shorter shackles might get you a little more. It will be better .

I started with 4.
 
Already have a drill press in the shop, so that is good.

Can I use a cap head screw and not drill them out? I am going on a parts run tomorrow so I dont mind getting any bolts I need.

Thanks
 
I use socket head cap screws for spring pins at the proper length. They're stronger than a spring pin.
 
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