I would say add some sound deadening to the inside of the outer door skins... makes a big difference since you're in there.
New Stereo on a Budget
- Thread starter Trollhole
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Rear cup holders!
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- #23
I've decided to make my own door speaker pods. Just couldn't find anything that looked good. So I'm going to bust out the felt and resin and see what I can come up with.
On the back sub enclosure I think I'll include an area for my inverter and a panel for some plugs and electronics. And some cup holders.
On the back sub enclosure I think I'll include an area for my inverter and a panel for some plugs and electronics. And some cup holders.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with
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- #25
So it's been a while. I finally had decided to take a weekend off from the shop and do something for me.
As far as price I'm at 460 total. That should be about it as far as money for materials.
First was building the rear sub box. Picked up some 5/8 MDF. Made some measurements and started cutting. The idea was not to cut any metal. Plastic I'm okay with but the box needed to fit in the rear quarter and take up as much space as I could get without getting into geometry. Goal was to have a 1.1 cubic foot box for the 10" with a 3" x 7.5" port.
First was to make the board that would be used to mount the inner and outer boxes to.
This pic shows the inner box I made. I did it first so I'd be able to subtract its cubic inches from the 1.1 cubit ft I needed. It ended up being 530 cubic inches.
Then I drew up the outer box dimensions and figured out how tall it needed to be. Was about 4" tall.
Put it back in to make sure it would fit.
As far as price I'm at 460 total. That should be about it as far as money for materials.
First was building the rear sub box. Picked up some 5/8 MDF. Made some measurements and started cutting. The idea was not to cut any metal. Plastic I'm okay with but the box needed to fit in the rear quarter and take up as much space as I could get without getting into geometry. Goal was to have a 1.1 cubic foot box for the 10" with a 3" x 7.5" port.
First was to make the board that would be used to mount the inner and outer boxes to.
This pic shows the inner box I made. I did it first so I'd be able to subtract its cubic inches from the 1.1 cubit ft I needed. It ended up being 530 cubic inches.
Then I drew up the outer box dimensions and figured out how tall it needed to be. Was about 4" tall.
Put it back in to make sure it would fit.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Made another template to make the top of the box conform to the rear wheel well.
Also mounted a ring behind the top so I could sink the sub in a little and it wouldn't poke out as much. As well I coated the whole thing in polyester resin. I didn't have to do this step but I sometimes leave my back windows open and any rain would turn the mdf into a sponge.
Make sure you use enough hardener otherwise you will be waiting a couple days.
Finding a spot for the port wasn't easy. I ended up using this location because it gave it enough room to breath. That area has opening on the front and back of the box.
Went to lowes and found this outdoor carpet which was a good match for the interior. .70 a square ft. I bought enough to do the whole cargo area as well since my dog tore a piece out of it.
Cover the box, installed the speaker with the wire and installed it. It's not going to move. Took a lot of force to get it in anyway plus once it was in I designed it to slide to the right to lock in behind the lip of the rear pillar.
Then I cut the rear plastic trim to fit it. It's good to keep your templates for this.
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- #27
Then it was on to wiring it up. I bought this kit from amazon for 40 dollars. Came with everything to wire my stuff up with the exception of speaker wire. Which I already have.
It was made by knukonceptz. Good quality stuff.
Had originally planned on putting the amp on the box. But it would have been too wide so I mounted it on the other side. I will eventually get a piece of plexiglass molded to cover the top so it doesn't get wet.
Hooked up the front speakers and installed the eq and I was ready to rock. Sound is amazing. Plus being able to adjust the eq on the fly without pressing a million buttons is great. I can taylor the sound to any music I want.
All that is left is to install the 6x9s in the rear doors and I'm done.
All in all I'm really impressed with the sound. The amp really made a huge difference in the front speakers. The head unit just wasn't going to cut it. Also I looked at the amp and it has 3 35 amp fuses. So maybe it has a little more umps than previously thought.
It was made by knukonceptz. Good quality stuff.
Had originally planned on putting the amp on the box. But it would have been too wide so I mounted it on the other side. I will eventually get a piece of plexiglass molded to cover the top so it doesn't get wet.
Hooked up the front speakers and installed the eq and I was ready to rock. Sound is amazing. Plus being able to adjust the eq on the fly without pressing a million buttons is great. I can taylor the sound to any music I want.
All that is left is to install the 6x9s in the rear doors and I'm done.
All in all I'm really impressed with the sound. The amp really made a huge difference in the front speakers. The head unit just wasn't going to cut it. Also I looked at the amp and it has 3 35 amp fuses. So maybe it has a little more umps than previously thought.
What's with the port location? You have the opening burried.
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- #30
Couldn't mount it parallel to the sub because it spec'd at 7.5 and my box at it's max was 8.25". If i put it on any of the sides the plastic trim would have covered half of it. Hence my location. There are two opening for it to breath. One facing front and one in the rear. I figured that was enough. And if not I could always trim the area beside it away. But I don't think it will make any difference now that I've listened to it.
Breathe? When poeple use that term for speakers/enclosures I don't belieive they fully understand their dynamics.
A properly tuned port/box will boost bass output (at the resonant frequency). When the port and woofer are at resonance most of the output comes from the port.
You could still mount the port next to the woofer, letting it extend forward of the box a little.
A properly tuned port/box will boost bass output (at the resonant frequency). When the port and woofer are at resonance most of the output comes from the port.
You could still mount the port next to the woofer, letting it extend forward of the box a little.
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- #32
Thanks for the heads up cause I don't know anything about porting other than what I've read. That will have to wait till this summer. Right now I have more bass than I really need. Do you think I'd get more punch by moving the port. Louder I really don't need.
Punch? Not sure about that.
What you should hear is the lowest lows.
Other than that, looks like a solid build. Any rattles?
What you should hear is the lowest lows.
Other than that, looks like a solid build. Any rattles?
Aight Troll, I gots to know. Wassup with the persian rug front floormats?
Gadzooks, yeah, whazzzup with that?
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- #36
Company my father owns imports rugs. They do stair runners. When my original mats went bad I just rolled some off of a color I liked and cut it out. If you want some send me a pm and ill get you a price. My father doesn't run it anymore but I'm good friends with the guy who is.
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- #37
ALS plan on doing the cargo area in a rug as well. Bling bling.
That's it. I'm stopping by tomorrow. I've seen the 80, but wasn't aware of the Persian floor mats. I might just take you up on the offer to replace my Beemer mats. Plus I'd get to hear the boom.
I also have some legitimate questions about wiring in my auxiliary wire harness.
I also have some legitimate questions about wiring in my auxiliary wire harness.
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- #39
Well you will need to wait a day. I'm going to be out of town picking up a sewing machine for someone today.