New (old) High ZDDP (zinc) Oil Castrol (2 Viewers)

[Spike Strip]

Just an FYI

Castrol has re-introduced an old SJ rated dino oil (80-90s formulation) that is very reasonably priced $25/5qts and at 1400ppm zddp - good for antique 2F engines if you change the oil 3-5K miles.

CASTROL GTX CLASSIC | WELCOME | CASTROL USA

Castrol® GTX® Classic is a high zinc formula providing extreme protection for your hot rod or classic car and high output engines with performance cams. Treat your flat tappet or push rod engine right with this authentic 20w-50 engine oil.

www.castrol.com

Little hard to find at the moment, since it's new, but supposed to eventually be widely available at Walmart, Amazon, etc, as well as FNLAPS

20w50 only

 

[OSS]

Thats a nice find but….

Back in 1988 when I purchased my FJ60, that 20W-50 GTX Castrol dino oil was pretty much the go to standard for supposedly maximum wear protection — back then. And back then ZZDP was a regular additive to virtually all motor oils.

Before I got my 60, I had a Toyota pickup with a 4cyl 20R engine in it and I used that 20W-50 Castrol GTX in it exclusively for years and it ran fine.

So when I got the 60 with the 2F engine - I tried that same oil … and I soon discovered that things weren’t so fine - that oil really sucked the power out of the engine.
The drop in horse power was very noticeable.
In fact there was a very steep hill near my home that always required me to floor it to get over it without downshifting, and when I put the Castrol 20W-50 GTX in…. I had to downshift to a lower gear to make it over that hill. What happened to my engine? My only thought then was WTF?

I switched then to Castrol 5W-50 Syntec synthetic motor oil - and blammo! engine had very noticeable increased horsepower (striking difference) and when driving up over that hill I could floor it and make it over easily without having to downshift.

Since the 2F is such a low powered engine for the heavy 60, it needs every horse it can get. Losing lots of horses due to overly viscous motor oil did not seem worth it to me.

I always wondered why the 6cyl 2F wasn’t very happy running 20W-50 dino oil compared to the 4cyl 20R engine which was fine with it — and the only conclusion I could come to is that the 6cyl 2F has a lot more inherent friction from more rubbing parts than the 20R.

Soooo … I vowed to use the very slippery synthetic Castrol Syntec 5W-50 for as long as I owned the car - as a lifelong experiment - and the results are in after 35 years and 240,000 miles:

1. Better MPG (which helps offset it’s higher cost)
2. Increased horsepower
3. Cooler running engine
4. Noticeably smoother running engine
5. Much smoother at high RPMs
6. Easier cold starting
7. Zero sludge or black deposits anywhere (after 35 years). Rocker assembly was still sparkling clean.
8. Engine still ran fine after 35 years
9. Expensive

Compared to 20W-50 dino oil.

 

[Bigdon]

Ive had great success with Lucas TB Plus engine break in oil additive - ZDDP. One pint with 4.5 qts of oil takes the zinc to 5000 ppm. I use in my 2f and a hot rod i have.

 

[HemiAlex]

I’ve been using the mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, it still works well. I don’t even know if it has the same ppm.

344,000 miles and it runs good.

 

[Gimme a 60]

I’ve been using the mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, it still works well. I don’t even know if it has the same ppm.

344,000 miles and it runs good.

It’s that not diesel oil? I thought all Diesel oil was 15w 50?

 

[FishTacos]

Diesel oil. Zddp additive. 5000 miles. Or 3000 miles. It's a 2F. Sure, they need oil , but they can power forklifts on fermented sea water. You could put rendered pork fat that had been used for three batches of carnitas in the crankcase and as long as you don't live in Flin Flan you're probably good. Its a feature not a bug.

 

[John McVicker]

This is also available right now on Amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B09QXWLY2Y

 

[overhanger]

I’ve been using the mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, it still works well. I don’t even know if it has the same ppm.

344,000 miles and it runs good.

The Mobil 15w50 label states that it is a high zinc content oil and I think the # is similar to the Castrol. Turns out the Mobil 1 is 1300ppm. Their 20w50 Racing is even higher at 1800ppm.

 

[HemiAlex]

It’s that not diesel oil? I thought all Diesel oil was 15w 50?

Yes. I got a letter from Toyota that it had voided the warranty on my 2F.

Never again.

 

[Pighead]

My recipe for a 2F oil change.

 

[HemiAlex]

My recipe for a 2F oil change.

View attachment 3223922

I used VR1 for a long time. It was really broken down after 2000 miles when I did a blackstone labs report. I don't think it has the longevity to go a full OCI. I noticed it just smelled really bad, and the report confirmed that it didn't have near the protection properties that it should.

I still feel that its primarily a sometimes drag racing, change it after a weekend of racing oil.

I think the diesel oil is the way to go. That just my opinion.

 

[ozarkmud]

Straight weight oil doesn't seem like a good idea. Having a cold range that's not so thick is a lot better for wear on cold startups.

Diesel oil is a good option in my opinion. Rotella T6. Might have issues with catalytic converters clogging if you're burning oil, but I think it's still rare.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I’m still on that T4 25w40 train. Choo choo tractor comin’ through look out!

For real though I have been looking at other oils. And I have a bottle of the Lucas ZDPP additive… switching is low on my priority list.

 

[Spike Strip]

This has been discussed ad nauseam in other threads, but a 20w50 is just fine for a low tolerance engine like the 2F. Synthetic is fine, if you want to spend $120+ for an oil change. I prefer to do it twice a year or so and spend $60.

VR1 and other racing oils have little to no detergent because they're meant to run hard , then drain. You risk a lot of sludge running racing oil, exclusively.

Rotella is good, but the spex on this SJ Castrol are what your 2F was meant to run on.

Oil and Gasoline are far cheaper than a rebuilt 2F/3FE. Frequently changed fluids are your friend.

If running synthetic, I'd consider the M1 TDT or Royal Purple

M1 15w50 and M1 TDT 5w40 are almost the same, but the TDT has slightly higher anti-wear stuff and more detergent.

I might try mixing a couple qts of M1 V-Twin 20w50 1750 ppm zddp with the Castrol above just to bump the levels, slightly.

 

[Spike Strip]

Wally World

Exactly the stuff your 2F 3F 3FE needs unless you want synthetic

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Move Over SHELL ROTILLA and Royal Purple There is a NEW FSM VISCOSITY Chart Sheriff in TOWN !

More to come Stay tuned to have your mind changed for the better of your Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser .. The hard core fact based Science is in and so to on the Filters This will be eye opening and help preserve what we all hols Dear for longer than ever before …

forum.ih8mud.com

IF NOT OPEN FOR DISCUSSION---- DELETE IT.


I hate Amsoil reps and their products because of it.

 

[Miloslavich]

Lucas Hot-Rod & Classic 20w50.
Hot Rod & Classic Car 20W-50 Motor Oil - https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rods-classic-cars/hot-rod-classic-car-20w-50-motor-oil


been getting good Blackstone reports with this. Available on Amazon.

2100 PPM ZDDP (https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf)

Nice to see another option on the market with the Castrol. Thanks for posting

 

[Spike Strip]

 

[cps432]

@Spike Strip , I think I plan on running this Castro blend you’re posting about in my rebuilt engine as a regular thing, but do you have any suggestions for initial break in oil? What about break in lube for the cam and lifters?

 

[Spike Strip]

I would absolutely use a high quality break-in oil like Lucas, redline, etc. and definitely an assembly lube like Red-Line or Permatex Ultra Slick

I changed my break in oil at about 100 miles but my engine builder said I should have done it sooner. Prolly a good idea to change it soon and often for the first 1000 miles.

FWIW, my last oil change I filled 50/50 with the Castrol Classic and M1 15w50 to kind of get a para synthetic blend. I had the M1 lying around so why not? Seems to run nice and smooth in this 100*+ weather we're having.

Amazon product ASIN B002INU8CM

Permatex Permatex Engine Assembly Lube 4oz Bottle 81950 | Zoro

Order Permatex Permatex Engine Assembly Lube 4oz Bottle, 81950 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com